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Battery Relocation?

G

green SVT

Guest
Ok well I did all the searches and found that this battery relocation may be a bit to much for me. I can do alot of stuff on my car but I'm just not great with electronics and wiring. This may be the only thing that will stop me from going through with the turbo group buy. So my question is there anyone that does battery reloc on CEG or do you think shops will do it? I would hate to pass on the turbo just because of a battery...
 
Honestly if you cannot tackle the battery, you cannot tackle the turbo. There are How-tos on the ubb boards.
 
Get a distribution block like this (what I use)
ImageURLFull.jpg


and some 0/1 gauge wiring. "Plug" in all the positive and then run your pos. cable to the trunk. Ground the battery to the trunk flooring and you're good to go. Don't forget the battery box. If you can't do that I don't know what to tell you. Both my cars are wired like this. You'll also want an Optima gel cell because you don't want the chemicals a non sealed battery gives off leaching into the cabin from the trunk.
 
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I can get 0/1 guage for a decent price. Honestly you don't need it. Most people will be fine with a good 4 gauge and others would need a 2 gauge. 0/1 is overkill
 
Contour electrical already sucks. I'd go as big as you can. I can take a pic of my setup tonight if anyone wants to see it.
 
LOL big doesn't mean better. At a certain point you get and its just overkill and pointless. The SHO system draws more amps than the contour and a 4 gauge was more than enough.

The Contour electrical sucking or not plays no part in a battery relocation and what size wire you should use.
 
Another source for excellent cable to replace battery cable is a welding supply shop. Arc welders use that kind of cable, and it must be of the highest quality to function properly and last long.

Steeda, 4 gauge might be enough, but if you relocate to the trunk heavier wire will make a difference. Going too thin WILL cause a problem. I don't know how thin that would be, but thicker than 4 gauge would most certainly be my preference.
 
Ok well I did look at the how to but I still have questions:

-I have a yellow top optima will that work, I'm pretty sure its sealed?
-So the negative cable running to the battery goes into this module which is grounded to the body, then you run a cable from that module to the battery in the trunk. Same for the positive. Is that the jist of it? Or does something else happen to the ground?
-My car, as some know, has been brought back from a 2f2 nightmare. Instead of one cable running to the each of the connections (+,-) on the battery, there are 4 or 5 running to each one one. (so in other word if you look at the battery there is 5 reds thin cables running to the positive, and 3 black cables running to the negative.) So would I have to fix this or what the hell is going on with that?

Like I said the car was TOTALLY messed up, so I'm pretty much taking everything out that this guy screwed up and trying to fix it.

BTW how is it that just because someone doesnt know much about electrical side of the car, they are totally clueless about turbo's? That makes absolutely no sense. But whatever.....
 
green SVT said:
Ok well I did look at the how to but I still have questions:

-I have a yellow top optima will that work, I'm pretty sure its sealed?
-So the negative cable running to the battery goes into this module which is grounded to the body, then you run a cable from that module to the battery in the trunk. Same for the positive. Is that the jist of it? Or does something else happen to the ground?
-My car, as some know, has been brought back from a 2f2 nightmare. Instead of one cable running to the each of the connections (+,-) on the battery, there are 4 or 5 running to each one one. (so in other word if you look at the battery there is 5 reds thin cables running to the positive, and 3 black cables running to the negative.) So would I have to fix this or what the hell is going on with that?
Click to expand...

Yes an Optima no matter the color is perfect.

The black (grounds) in the engine bay can be grouped together and the bolted tot he chassis in the engine bay.

The red (pos.) are all ran together in the distribution block posted above.

YOU DON'T WANT TO PAIR POS. AND NEG.

I'll get pics tonight. Forgot last night to check this.
 
green SVT said:
Ok well I did look at the how to but I still have questions:

-I have a yellow top optima will that work, I'm pretty sure its sealed?
-So the negative cable running to the battery goes into this module which is grounded to the body, then you run a cable from that module to the battery in the trunk. Same for the positive. Is that the jist of it? Or does something else happen to the ground?
-My car, as some know, has been brought back from a 2f2 nightmare. Instead of one cable running to the each of the connections (+,-) on the battery, there are 4 or 5 running to each one one. (so in other word if you look at the battery there is 5 reds thin cables running to the positive, and 3 black cables running to the negative.) So would I have to fix this or what the hell is going on with that?

Like I said the car was TOTALLY messed up, so I'm pretty much taking everything out that this guy screwed up and trying to fix it.

BTW how is it that just because someone doesnt know much about electrical side of the car, they are totally clueless about turbo's? That makes absolutely no sense. But whatever.....
Click to expand...


Its not so much the difference between electrical, and mechanical as it is the fact that a battery relocation is one of the more simple things to do. My main point is that there is a very detailed How-to on the old site, and if you cant follow this how to do you expect to follow the directions on a turbo installation?
 
Here's a site that should be helpful in choosing what guage to use...
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Also keep in mind that the stock alternator puts out 130amps max and if I had to guess i'd assume that even the starter uses much less current than that, so that should give you a good start to figure out what wire you need.

That's a pretty good link that explains what current is acceptable for what wire. Also its got a calculator to calculate voltage drop using a certain guage of wire with a certain input voltage. Hopefully this helps! ;)
 
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i also have 0 gauge already ran, a nice circuit breaker(150A) and a 20 dollar red top. but i have a 36x18x14 inch box in my hatch. and 2 amps on my back seats. anybody gotten somthin in the spare tire well? or perhaps off to the side i guess would be my next bet.
 
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