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Bypass the PCV?

i deleted my imrc so i am not in need of the mounting points. see if kev or trevir can help you out up there

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this might work for you. you just might need to relocate your imrc
 
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thanks, i've read about the updates to the 04/05 Duratec in Dominic's thread at FordContour.org, and i've read about how both you and Trevor are thinking of using the valve covers in order to relocate the PCV valve. moving the PCV valve to the valve cover makes sense... if i choose to use the exhaust manifold as a source of vacuum. right now, i think it's a better idea tap the intake at the compressor for vacuum, in which case the PCV valve is better left at the stock location.
 
If anyone ever noticed that ford redid the baffle system on the duratecs because the small plate is not large enough to keep oil from splashing into the lines. I very seldom hear of anyone having problems drawing in oil through the lines where it is noticable or excessive. The time I remember having these issues on my old motors I had bad ringlands or scarred cylinder walls. Not saying this is the problem but making sure the compression is good and doing leak down test provides information about the motor whether you have excessive blowby. The PCV valve I used of a boosted car like lightning or SC thunderbirds because I find the PCV valves better sealers than contours or cougars. A catch can is always a plus and if I was to add another one I would run one only and tap it back into the turbo inlet side. Now if oil is collecting in the oil line where it sags and you get normal blowby or more than normal it will push the oil up to the turbo. The way I would resolve this is by adding PCV valve or check valve inline they sell them universal that way only vacuum can be drawn in that direction not pressure as long as you have the factory PCV valve hooked up so you don't blow the seals out. Just my .02 cents Joey
 
Some of y'all may have a distorted view of how the PCV system is designed to work. This is from the service manual. Look carefully at how the air is SUPPOSED to flow;

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Note how this system is designed to put metered air into the crankcase - through the valve covers. That's correct, the air is suppose to ENTER the valve covers, and exit the crankcase via the PCV valve. Remove the hoses from the air inlet tube to the valve covers, and you are preventing metered air from entering the crankcase. This is what Blackcoog is talking about. His valve covers are open to the atmosphere, so there is no metered air entering his crankcase.

Blackcoog said:
Is the evap canister perg vent the short tube that normally plugs into the intake from the PCV valve or is it the plastic line that goes to the firewall?
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It's the plastic line to the firewall. The short tube from the PCV valve to the intake serves as the vacuum source for both the PCV system and the EVAP canister vent.
 
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anybody know whether the EVAP line also needs a source of vacuum other than the intake manifold? if not, i will need to learn how the EVAP system works...

SicSE, thanks for posting. that picture is helpful in showing how flow should go in a stock setup. in my case, i am definitely getting oil into the intake from the valve cover breathers, which suggests a reversal of air flow. hopefully i can resolve that by changing the vacuum source for the PCV valve. otherwise, i fear that the rich tune i have been running has washed out my cylinder walls. :\
 
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SoopaCooga said:
anybody know whether the EVAP line also needs a source of vacuum other than the intake manifold?
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The vacuum source is for emissions, so that the fuel vapors vent into the engine & get burned instead of polluting the atmosphere. It doesn't NEED vacuum to function properly - it's just a vent for fumes and their consequent pressure.

SoopaCooga said:
SicSE, thanks for posting. that picture is helpful in showing how flow should go in a stock setup. in my case, i am definitely getting oil into the intake from the valve cover breathers, which suggests a reversal of air flow. hopefully i can resolve that by changing the vacuum source for the PCV valve. otherwise, i fear that the rich tune i have been running has washed out my cylinder walls. :\
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Happy to help. :cool: Personally, I would just drop the valve cover-to-inlet tube lines. They're not very efficient without modification in my experience.
 
SicSE said:
The vacuum source is for emissions, so that the fuel vapors vent into the engine & get burned instead of polluting the atmosphere. It doesn't NEED vacuum to function properly - it's just a vent for fumes and their consequent pressure.
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So it sounds to me like it should be rerouted along with the PCV valve and valve cover breathers. THanks.
 
SicSE said:
Happy to help. :cool: Personally, I would just drop the valve cover-to-inlet tube lines. They're not very efficient without modification in my experience.
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If you do this you shouldn't use the intake manifold or any post MAF area for the vacuum source anymore.
 
Barge said:
If you do this you shouldn't use the intake manifold or any post MAF area for the vacuum source anymore.
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Yeah, definitely the theoretically proper thing to do... otherwise you're inducing a vacuum leak of sorts. However, it should be noted that it wouldn't be a vacuum leak in the traditional sense of only unmetered air. It would be unmetered air AND fuel, (in the form of oil vapor).
 
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I think calling the oil vapor fuel is using too positive of a word.

I would prefer uneven burning knock inducing potentially incindiary substance.
 
Not out of the woods yet

Not out of the woods yet

While looking to re-route the PCV & EVAP, I was reminded that many valves rely on the UIM as a source of vacuum, including the brake booster and FPR as well as the EGR. Do we know which of these can tolerate positive pressure, and if so how much?

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SoopaCooga said:
While looking to re-route the PCV & EVAP, I was reminded that many valves rely on the UIM as a source of vacuum, including the brake booster and FPR as well as the EGR. Do we know which of these can tolerate positive pressure, and if so how much?
Click to expand...

Brake booster has a one way check valve in the line. EGR goes through a solenoid (which shouldnt have a problem with boost) and only sees vacuum while cruising. Most FPRs are also capable of handeling boost as well. i wouldnt bother rerouting the EVAP as it also goes through a solenoid. the only other thing would be heater/ac controls which i dont think are an issue either since it just goes to the switch.
 
i had oil filling the PCV line on my 3L. i'm not boosted but chris....

everyone says the 3L separator (on the block) acts as the PCV too. i run that block, with a custom tube, and the 2.5L PCV. i still had oil in it until i replaced the 2.5L valve. the oil is gone. i ran a clear line so i can check it every time i fill up. in my application, that only matters for the carbon buildup in the intake manifolds, but for you, how your car runs depends on that stupid little valve that never works right.

one more question for chris.... did you tune out your EGR? if you did, you should put a plate between the EGR and the intake mani..... to make sure its sealed off and not being opened when the manifold sees pressure.
 
I haven't really been following this thread but since you addressed me I'll post up.

I haven't had any oil going through my PCV that I know of with my supercharger setup in my cougar. I'm still venting the valve cover breathers and the car runs great.

I'm still running my EGR. I suppose it would be nice to get rid of it so there is more room in the engine bay but it's still there for now.
 
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