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car veers when hitting the brakes

A

adam42481

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 19, 2007
Messages
61
i have a problem with my 1999 v6 auto c. i tried searching in this section for the problem and i found one thread that kind of delt with the same issue. but it didnt seem like it was resolved. here's the problem.

when applying the brake the car pulls to the right and occasionally to the left.
i had the car into a very good shop and they couldnt find anything wrong with it. they tried, alignment, new pads, new rotors, caliper inspection, switching the proportioning valve, has a new tie rod on the drivers side,pass side is ok. and the car still has the problem.

the car has 126k on it. has anyone had this problem or have any ideas.i'm at a loss. thanks
 
thats what i was thinking too. is there a way i can visualy inspect them. any other ideas?
 
Check here

Do the o'clock test.
O'clock test

Jack up the car one side. Place on jack stand.

Grasp wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and push in and out. Any movement, most probably suspect wheel bearing.

9 and 3 o'clock - tie-rod/ball joint.

Lower the car and do the same for the other side.

PS Credit to Tony2005
 
so, if i get movement in the 9 and 3 position probably a lower control arm bushing. thanks
 
i would have to say no. its pretty smooth. i just wonder if it is the lower control arm since the alignment shop did have to replace the driver side tie rod. maybe that what made it wear out. you think that they would have caught it. has anyone else had this problem? thanks
 
Typically, when a vehicle pulls to one side or the other suring braking, it is a sign of a brake problem. It could be that your left caliper is sticking and not coming out all the way. If this is the case, then the right brake will be doing all of the work and it would pull to that side.

You may also have worn suspension parts, but my money is on the brakes.
 
69Boss302 said:
Typically, when a vehicle pulls to one side or the other suring braking, it is a sign of a brake problem. It could be that your left caliper is sticking and not coming out all the way. If this is the case, then the right brake will be doing all of the work and it would pull to that side.

You may also have worn suspension parts, but my money is on the brakes.
Click to expand...

+1

One of the caliper pistons is hung up/sticking, calipers need to be cleaned and or possibly rebuilt
 
the shop said that they looked at the calipers and said that they were ok, i personally took he brakes off, and the the calipers didnt look to rusty near the piston and niether of the boots were torn. is there another way to check them.
 
Similar problem, did all the above (pads, rotors, calipers) without success. Tried flushing the brake system and found one brake with more flow then the other. Brake hose was deteriorated on the inside. Replaced and all is fine.
 
twocontours said:
Similar problem, did all the above (pads, rotors, calipers) without success. Tried flushing the brake system and found one brake with more flow then the other. Brake hose was deteriorated on the inside. Replaced and all is fine.
Click to expand...

which way did your car pull and which hose did you replace. was it easy?
 
If a restricted brake line, it will be on the side AWAY from the direction of the pull.

This is a common fault on both the Taurus and the F-series. There is a metal mounting bracket crimpded around the rubber hose. Corrosion sets in and starts rusting the metal on the rubber side of the bracket. The expansion of the corroded material gradually pinches off the rubber hose and keeps the fluid from flowing properly when brake pressure is applied. it also keeps the presure at the caliper from relieving promptly when the pedal is released.

Unhook the brake line from the front calipers and check to see if both sides flow equally. If one side is particularly weak, it's a good sign that it has a restriced line.

Steve
 
Tomorrow i'm going to check the flow at the calipers. and i'll let you all know what i come up with. i'm really starting to think it's a deteriorated break line.thanks
 
well, i have found the problem, after checking the flow at each caliper by measuring the amount fluid in a measuring cup. i did this multiple times and each time it was the same. i then decided to double check the lower control arm bushings and much to my suprise the driver side rear bushing was shot. i could wiggle the whole control arm back and forth with ease.
of course it couldnt be the pass. side. it has to be the one that requires the engine cradle to be lower while holding up the engine and transmission, yeah!!!. has anyone come up with a less complicated way to do this. and is there a bushing out there or do you have to buy the whole control arm assembly. thanks
 
cut the bolt that hits the tranny to remove the lca, purchase a new bolt from the dealership and install that upside down, cut it down about a 1/4 inch, drill a small hole thru it and install a cotter pin just to make sure it doesnt back out. some people think its pretty safe and some frown upon it, thats how i have mine and havent had a problem. you should replace the whole lca because u will get a brand new ball joint. there i a brand new lca on ebay with about 1 day left, jump on it. heres the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130201961816&rd=1
 
Yeah, I was against putting the bolt in upside down, but when I realised how much owrk was involved in lowering the subframe a gave in. Theres some really good info and pics for changing the lcas on here.
 
i decided that i am going to do it myself, so any info or pointers that you guys have gained would be greatly appriecated. also can you direct me to the threads that talk about the replacement. thanks for the ebay find. going to buy it right now.thanks
 
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