krispykritter
New CEG'er
Hello everyone!
My team and I have used this site extensively to research our race car and learn about what others have done to extract some performance from these cars. While most of what we've done isn't something you want to do for a street car, I figure you all would enjoy reading about our never-ending project to extract more performance from our race car.
First, here she is at Daytona International Speedway last April:
History: We bought the car from another chumpcar team back in late 2015. There was no reason other than it was for sale, it was close-ish, and it seemed easier than buying a new car and building it ourselves.
After we got ahold of it, we spent a lot of time cataloging the parts we got with it, and 'cleaning up' the wiring and installation of everything. We ran our first race at Sebring in 2016 with the car nearly identical to when we bought it, and though we managed to finish, we did have to replace a wheel bearing halfway through the race. We've learned a ton about the car and racing since then - our first year at Sebring, we had a best lap of 3:03.xxx; last year we did a 2:50.xxx.
Since then, we've run Daytona and Sebring every year, and have made longer trips out to Road Atlanta (twice, but the first attempt our motor blew up) and Carolina Motorsports Park (where we had our highest ever finish - 14th, and we were the 2nd highest placing FWD car).
At Daytona, we've seen a highest top speed of around 125 mph. Our usual max sustained cornering forces are around 1.1-1.2 gees.
With with the 2.5L on a dyno, with a microsquirt, underdrive fluidampr pulley, and gutted LIM, we made 165WHP and 155WTQ.
That brings me to this year - we've got a duratec 30 we're in the process of swapping into the car as we speak. Along the way, almost all the original car has been reworked or replaced. Last summer we finally went to a microsquirt EMS and replaced the entirety of the OEM wiring in the car. Everything is on our own relays and wiring, down to the headlights and wipers.
On to the modifications:
My team and I have used this site extensively to research our race car and learn about what others have done to extract some performance from these cars. While most of what we've done isn't something you want to do for a street car, I figure you all would enjoy reading about our never-ending project to extract more performance from our race car.
First, here she is at Daytona International Speedway last April:
History: We bought the car from another chumpcar team back in late 2015. There was no reason other than it was for sale, it was close-ish, and it seemed easier than buying a new car and building it ourselves.
After we got ahold of it, we spent a lot of time cataloging the parts we got with it, and 'cleaning up' the wiring and installation of everything. We ran our first race at Sebring in 2016 with the car nearly identical to when we bought it, and though we managed to finish, we did have to replace a wheel bearing halfway through the race. We've learned a ton about the car and racing since then - our first year at Sebring, we had a best lap of 3:03.xxx; last year we did a 2:50.xxx.
Since then, we've run Daytona and Sebring every year, and have made longer trips out to Road Atlanta (twice, but the first attempt our motor blew up) and Carolina Motorsports Park (where we had our highest ever finish - 14th, and we were the 2nd highest placing FWD car).
At Daytona, we've seen a highest top speed of around 125 mph. Our usual max sustained cornering forces are around 1.1-1.2 gees.
With with the 2.5L on a dyno, with a microsquirt, underdrive fluidampr pulley, and gutted LIM, we made 165WHP and 155WTQ.
That brings me to this year - we've got a duratec 30 we're in the process of swapping into the car as we speak. Along the way, almost all the original car has been reworked or replaced. Last summer we finally went to a microsquirt EMS and replaced the entirety of the OEM wiring in the car. Everything is on our own relays and wiring, down to the headlights and wipers.
On to the modifications:
- Ford reman 2.5L short block, non-svt (after we blew the engine at Road Atlanta)
- Ground Control coilover kit with 500F/225R spring rates
- Bilstein strut inserts made for a 3000GT on all four corners (inside original BAT strut bodies)
- 240sx front strut mount pattern into strut towers with...
- Ebay pillowball upper strut mounts on the front, homemade steel ones on the rear
- Home-made extended front lower control arms
- Massive rear toe links
- 15 gallon fuel cell with 1/2 gallon surge tank. One low pressure lift pump to fill surge tank, and high pressure pump to feed engine.
- Microsquirt engine management system with homemade wire harness, home grown tune
- Ditched water/oil cooler for oil/air cooler in front of radiator
- Aluminum radiator for a mondeo, special ordered from Britain
- Two oil catch cans
- PCV from a 240sx
- Fuel filter from a 300zx
- 17x9 wheels from a Foxbody mustang, and rolled/pushed fenders
- Secondary butterflies and shafts removed
- Re-greased CV joints with 50/50 mix of swepco moly and bel-ray anti-seize (these were blowing up ALOT before we discovered this)
- Gutted all cats, straight-through exhaust
- Ditched front sway bar, running SVT rear sway
- Home-designed, Xometry built adapters to mount new edge mustang aluminum 2-pot calipers to contour spindle with SVT Focus rotors
- Home-made LEDs fitting inside stock headlight housings
- RaceCapture telemetry system, with in-car tablet display with live lap timing
- Home-made sequential shift light, with large backup tach and secondary shift light driven by MS analog output
- Converted trans over to using Focus MTX shift tower, cables, and shifter. They still make new shift cables for the focus
- Ford 24# injectors (from a navigator)
- Honda civic intake tube (O'reilly special)
- Fluidampr crank pulley
- Home-made y-pipe optimization, straight-through exhaust
- Two sets of brake ducts, plus two sets of air diverters to help cool the front CVs and brakes
- Original gas tank gone, underbody aero added to cover massive hole
- Homemade splitter, under-engine tray, and spoiler
- 2004 Duratec 30 oval port installation, with
- New rod bearings and ARP bolts
- Fidanza flywheel with ARP bolts
- Luk clutch and slave cylinder
- Home-made poly rear engine mount (burned out old rubber and poured new poly into the shell)
- PRG? Solid front subframe mounts
- Energy suspension rear poly control arm bushings
- New-edge mustand 2-piston calipers with SVT Focus rotors
- FPR in trunk next to fuel cell to simplify fuel line plumbing
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