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changing rod bearings as prevent. maintaince?

Yeah, instead of being all cloak and dagger-y, I want to Terry's site and read his postings on the matter. The logic makes sense, so I'll probably not touch mine until the engine goes, but it was better to hear it from the source and fully explained.
 
Anyone know, as far as standard non-high performance engines, has the whole industry gone to the powder metal casting ?connecting rods
I realize now days non-performance is how do you say, now the norm is for more & more higher tech smaller displacement pushing the envelope. At the same time the bean-counters trying to make the bottom even bigger so we end up with suspect vehicles.
If I ever buy another new vehicle one of the many specs to add to list forged steel rods. I don't like the ideal of having to baby engine that loves to rev. even though man does is perfect but if bean counters could just let the engineers, who been there done that allow logical common sense prevail. Yeah right!
 
I don't know if this technology is the most common yet, but I do know that its use is expanding, even in high performance applications. At least in a few cases, conventional forged rods are used with blower applications.

The engineers I have talked to claim the powder rods are stronger than run of the mill rods. They also say they fit the bearings much better and will do so their entire life.

On our cars, the rods are not the weakness. The bearing lubrication system is. Those that have modified this engine extensively say the rods are good for more RPM than is needed and IIRC up to 400HP.
 
Jim I'm thinking a Ford buyer found this shop in China and had them made. Just like wiring harnesses from Thailand. I've keeping my eye on my new dual capacity scroll compressor by Copeland three years so far so good. I just don't trust these cooperative ventures. From the folks at Copeland said "Thailand plant their only source for dual capacity scrolls globally and price is no great bargain?
Not sure what amount of out of spec is showing up in the big end, but I'm betting on an under the table deal. I've run into issues in several other industries (not automotive) products engineered in late 80's thru the 90's. The extended decade of globe greed.
Family member telling about the test mule has Gm Ecotec 2.0l direct gas injection dual variable pitch twin turbo that has forged steel rods because of the generous wide torque band 1800-5200 260 ftlb. Blast to drive with 6 speed manual. Really didn't need all those ratios since any gear spun tires with too much throttle. The Astra is too light for that much torque without all sorts of traction control lines of code. Mule had selector switch with multiply levels of control, wouldn't be fun to be a R & D engineer NOT? What you mean it'll cost that much to work properly Cut some more!!!!!
 
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I have heard that the early 2.5's (95 & 96) dont spin bearings. One of the issues with these rods is that there was a design change in 97. Ford kept the same part # but if you put them side by side you can see the difference. The newer ones are weaker. Also the the elongation of the journal end of the rod is what causes the bearing to spin. This makes sense the notch loosens up and the bearing spins.

Is there a reason that folks just don't turn the crank replace the rods and use oversize bearings? I did that with my 454, and made it a 468. There also seems to be a mileage range in which the motor spins a bearing if it is going to. SE's are 140+ and SVT's are 80k - 120k. IIRC. If I get to doing a rebuild I will definitely use 95, or 96 rods.

The problem with just changing bearings is that as one person said the bearings wear with the crank. If there is any micro grooving of the journal then it must be polished before new bearings are installed. If it is not then they work to wear the new bearings in a similar fashion as wet sanding. The life of the bearing is greatly reduced. Each bearing has its own hard/soft spots that mate with a polished crank journal. That's why you can't just take one bearing out and stick it in another hole, but that in essence is what you are doing if you don't have a proper surface on the journal to start with. I've done a number of engines and it just doesn't pay to put all that effort and $$$ into it and not do things right. Now if you just plan on throwing it away in a relatively few miles well go for it. Everyone has their own reasons. That is also the reason it is not a good idea to just change the bearings out as a maintenance item unless you pull the crank have it checked and at least polished then the proper size bearings installed. If yours is one of those that is going to get an elongated rod end then all that would be fro naught anyway. That is a ford issue they won't address, but they will sell you new parts.

Just my 2 cents

Happy New Year and I hope no one spins a bearing in 08.

AF
 
95pgt-t said:
my 96se spun a bearing at 38k miles:shrug:
Click to expand...
Well there goes that theory! thanks a lot pal! but if it failed at that low mileage there must have been circumstances other than the elongation of the rod ends over time. I am only refering to high mileage engines. Perhaps it had monday rods or it was just a total monday engine.

I presume it was under warranty? How's it been since then?

In whole that dosen't change the thought that changing rod bearings without doing a proper job of it is not a good idea. Doing so may not add miles to the engine life, and could actually shorten it. And I'd still prefer the early rods over later rods.
 
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the dealership did it on a test drive on a long onramp. yeah,it was covered under warranty. the engine they put i i pulled at 153k. never had bearing issues. i pulled it in favor of a svt engine.
 
Consumers have to deal with these issues and ford does nothing. Their position is there is no problem....... to hear the dealership did it just warms my heart (if I had one) thanks for this info at the start of a New Year....:laugh:

AF
 
lol. went in for waterpump/idler pulley and wheel bearings. came out w/that plus a engine:laugh: took forever to get back though.
also another thing to think about w/your theory on the rods..what about the 98svt's w/build dates from 1996/97?? would you'd think they'd use the same rods as the pre98's...since,well,they were built pre98:shrug:
 
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