DIY poly fill roll restrictor

[Lord Stanley]

How thick is the divider actually?

Not very, maybe 1/4 of an inch think on my pre98 RRR... Here are pictures of the hollowness, and multiply this by two! For reference, the width of my palm is 3.5 inches...

 

[Lord Stanley]

I put the mount in a make-shift oven I have and am cooking it at a little over 100 degrees F... This is making it harden so much faster, LOL... It probably would have taken a week for the core to harden without this kick in the rear to get it going

 

[morbid]

How thick is the divider actually?

The "dividers" on mine actually looked more like casting left overs. They were paper thin and most of my holes weren't even totally blocked by it. I just kept ramming the drill bit in it until the excess rubber was gone.

 

[marvinstockman]

Silicone Rubber Alternative

Silicone Rubber Alternative

I've been using silicone rubber (RTV - room temperature vulcanizing) to repair Saab motor and transmission mounts for over 10 years. It's a 'softer' material than polyurethane, and I've been eying my SVT mounts for a few years now to see if they need repair.

 

[Cobra99]

I'm completely comfortable filling my own rear restrictor with poly, but apparently I'm not technically inclined enough to navigate McMaster-Carr's webpage. Can anyone provide a link to the 1 lb cans of liquid poly in the various hardnesses? I'm mostly likely just going to go with 60A, but 80A is still on the table as well.

Thanks.

 

[Ray]

Damn.. I'm having a hard time finding it, too.

Maybe in this section, or something..

Edit: Poly, with regard to Durometer, and its applications can be found somewhere between pages 3459 and 3466.. just not sure where, yet.

Edit Edit: Urethane Casting Compounds: Page 3531 (just plug that in the product find bar)

 

[Cobra99]

I think I found it this morning. At least I hope I did, because I ordered it.

I ordered part number 8644K24, "Flexible Urethane Casting Compound 1 Pound Liquid, Shore A 60, Black."

It was on page 3531. Hope it's the right stuff.

 

[Ray]

That's 60A... VERY soft stuff compared to, say, what is offered on here by some of the members, etc.

 

[Cobra99]

I realize that, but I also have seen that even the 60A is as firm or more firm than the factory rubber mount. Hopefully that is the case. I'm not looking for anything rock solid, don't race the car, etc. If the 60A retains a factory-like ride while fixing the bucking issues I'm having due to my torn/deteriorated factory mount, I'll be perfectly content.

 

[Bugzuki]

That looks like the stuff I ordered last time. Looks like I accidentally got the 8644K11 (shore A 80) though.

The stuff is quite runny so make sure you have a plan in place to retain it before you mix it up. I thought I did but it was runnier then I planned. The sand idea in the pictures above looks good except that one side would have sand impregnated into it.

If you cutout all of the original rubber on the rear rr there might not be enough poly in the 1lb can to do both roll resistors even if you are just filling the front.

That new putty option in McMaster looks cool, but it might be hard to get a nice smooth surface finish.

Then, make sure you do not accidentally get the FDA approved poly. My original mistake.

 

[fcsvt1]

I had the same issue with navigating McMaster-Carr. After a few tries I just bought it on ebay from energy-suspension-dealer. I think it was $38 shipped.

From what I recall the 60A is closest to stock feel, and 80A is stiffer. I went back and fourth between the two myself and finally decided on 80A, since my cars are not just DD's.

 

[SoopaCooga]

I think I found it this morning. At least I hope I did, because I ordered it.

I ordered part number 8644K24, "Flexible Urethane Casting Compound 1 Pound Liquid, Shore A 60, Black."

It was on page 3531. Hope it's the right stuff.

That's the right stuff. I used the 60A casting compound because I commute in my car. 60A is by no means soft! It's comparable to the hardness of tire rubber.

Here's a pic of one of several urethane casting compounds by Forsch Polymer, sold by McMaster-Carr:

[/QUOTE]

 

[24vtom]

i ordered a kit from energy suspensions. is one kit enough to do the rear mount? because it doesnt seem like much in the can.

 

[SoopaCooga]

i ordered a kit from energy suspensions. is one kit enough to do the rear mount? because it doesnt seem like much in the can.

one kit (i.e. 1lb) can fill both mounts with some left over... if the stock rubber is not removed. if you decide to burn out or otherwise remove the stock rubber, then you will need more than one kit if doing both mounts.

 

[Cobra99]

I completely removed the rubber from the rear mount by throwing the center piece into a metal basket over a small fire. The rubber caught fire and just burned until it was gone, then I cleaned it all up. Should be dried out now so I'll try and fill it tonight. Stil trying to decide how to tape off the bottom and hold the center sleeve in place, but I'll figure something out.

I'll only be filling the rear, as the front still looks to be in good shape. If I determine I need to do the front as well I'll order another can or just do the HD inserts from BAT.

 

[turbo_fox]

I took a piece of cardboard, and cut the top layer and the corrugated layer out at the diameter of the center sleeve, but left the bottom layer in place then i cut the cardboard out in the shape of the mount and taped it to the mount with duct tape. The cardboard held the sleeve centered in the mount radially, and axially center due to the cutting out of the corrugation (since the sleeve is slightly wider than the mount.

I hope that makes sense

I completely removed the rubber from the rear mount by throwing the center piece into a metal basket over a small fire. The rubber caught fire and just burned until it was gone, then I cleaned it all up. Should be dried out now so I'll try and fill it tonight. Stil trying to decide how to tape off the bottom and hold the center sleeve in place, but I'll figure something out.

I'll only be filling the rear, as the front still looks to be in good shape. If I determine I need to do the front as well I'll order another can or just do the HD inserts from BAT.

 

[Cobra99]

I managed to use a thin piece of cardboard (cover from a paperback book) to hold the sleeve centered and taped that in place. Unfortunately when I was in the process of leveling the assembly in a box filled with sand I must have pressed down on the outer unit without re-adjusting the center sleeve, so it's more or less flush with the housing on one end and extends about 1/4" from the other end. Luckily the mounting holes in the housing are elongated just enough that it still bolted in fine. I didn't want to have to tear all that poly out and do it again.

I still have the engine jacked up to keep the weight off the mount (installed it after it set for 2 days), tomorrow morning I'll drop the car off the stands and test it out.

 

[KAOS_3.0]

ok, so on page 3531 of polyurethanes, I want part number 8644K11 for 80a?

and I'm curious if 80 and 60a compounds can be mixed together to give 70a? anybody tried it? or could a different ratio of hardener to material be used like with JB weld and bondo?

I'm also a little curious about the 65a blue liquid silicone, it claims a tensile strength of 710psi VS. 1250 with the 60a poly. which is a little confusing as I thought hardness had a lot to do with tensile strength. is this basically to say the silicone is hard enough, but will tear easier? like, not as resilient? the engine definately doesn't weigh more than 710lbs, so, just wondering.

a friend of mine has a shot upper mount and rear RR on a neon (they are both just like out RR's) and he's going to buy enough to do mine and his since he's not mechanically inclined and he needs me to do his. I'm curiouse about the silicone because he may not be so cool with crashing at my place so it can cure for 48hrs. could that be shortened by oven curing at say... 150 degrees or so?

thanks dudes

(ps: this is like the longest thread ever)

 

[SoopaCooga]

ok, so on page 3531 of polyurethanes, I want part number 8644K11 for 80a?

and I'm curious if 80 and 60a compounds can be mixed together to give 70a? anybody tried it? or could a different ratio of hardener to material be used like with JB weld and bondo?

I'm also a little curious about the 65a blue liquid silicone, it claims a tensile strength of 710psi VS. 1250 with the 60a poly. which is a little confusing as I thought hardness had a lot to do with tensile strength. is this basically to say the silicone is hard enough, but will tear easier? like, not as resilient? the engine definately doesn't weigh more than 710lbs, so, just wondering.

a friend of mine has a shot upper mount and rear RR on a neon (they are both just like out RR's) and he's going to buy enough to do mine and his since he's not mechanically inclined and he needs me to do his. I'm curiouse about the silicone because he may not be so cool with crashing at my place so it can cure for 48hrs. could that be shortened by oven curing at say... 150 degrees or so?

thanks dudes

(ps: this is like the longest thread ever)

Sounds like you need to speak with either a material scientist or tech support for a urethane products company.

 

[1BadJag]

i just did this tonite to my mounts(3m Method). I didnt bother drilling threw the middle divider on the rear mount... i simply put the nozzle and gave it about 6 full squeezes and it started filling other holes around it and a few holes on the other side. i did this to just about every hole and had ALOT of excess.

So i figured i coudl do the front one. I taped off the entire front mount. i first put down Aluminum foil before i taped it off. I made sure the tape was extra thick and tight. After it was all taped up i cut a hole in one section and put the tip of the tube in and squeezed. It took about 45 mins and one hell of a cramped hand later and the mount was completely filled. To the point the sides of the mount was bulging outward. ill give it 36 hours and remove the tape and post pics!