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Dyno numbers are in for Project Mavro Gato ....

F

fastcougar

CEG'er
Joined
May 30, 2000
Messages
132
Location
Kearneysville, WV
From NECO:

FastCougar said:
Let me start off with this was done on the same Mustang Dyno as my naturally aspirated runs, so the reading are a little low. Now, let me follow that up with my wastegate is bleeding boost and I can't get past 11 psi without surging ... I need to play around with this quite a bit more in order to make more boost. I will have the video's up tonight.

Run 1: Roughly 11 psi

390.1 HP @ 6750 RPM
347.9 TQ @ 4750 RPM

Run 2: Roughly 11 psi with surging spike to 14 ... horrible run

403.1 HP @ 6750 RPM
358.5 TQ @ 4500 RPM

Run 3: Roughly 11 psi

387.4 HP @ 7000 RPM
347.8 TQ @ 4500 RPM

Run 4: Roughly 11.5 psi

391.9 HP @ 6750 RPM
374.2 TQ @ 4250 RPM

I never hit my 12 psi goal, but I will spend the next couple weeks tuning the wastegate with the EBC and make a few more runs then. I know this car has 500 hp in it easily!
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FastCougar said:
Sorta happy ... sorta disappointed

I really should have driven the car around a few more weaks to tune in the EBC. However, this will give a good baseline to judge things by. I'm happy that I made the power I did with the limited amount of boost I'm running and the fact that it's on a mustang dyno. I transposed the graph into this graphing calculator: http://vlsicad.ucsd.edu/~sharma/Potpourri/perf_est.html

Here is what the dyno sheet looks like:

torque_curve_20071113.gif
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If anyone can give some suggestions/insight into this problem, I would greatly appreciated it!

FastCougar said:
Everytime he stepped off the gas, I would get blue smoke out the rear and a nice little puff from under the hood. What's happening is that when you get that instant vacuum after letting off the gas, it's sucking oil from the heads through the valve cover breathers. That oil is then getting burnt off through the cylinder after the throttle has closed and since the BOV is now open, it's being spewed onto the turbo's exhaust housing :banghead:

So, no more running the car after my commute home today until I have changed the oil AND solved the oiling issue with the valve cover breathers. So, back to my question ... what's the harm in venting the VCB to atmosphere? The car is tuned and that can be compensated for, but will those filters see any oil? I suspect not since there is no vacuum on them. Someone please make an educated suggestion on this issue.
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Fwiw, for the valve cover breather issue, what you can do, is run the two lines together to an oil seperator can, and either vent that to atmosphere, or you can vent that can back to the intake where the breather lines currently go. Also, if you do have them vented to the intake tract, make sure they have one-way check valves to prevent pressurizing under the valve covers with boost pressure.


oh, and nice numbers; looks pretty good so far, can't wait to see your further progress.
 
Rara said:
Fwiw, for the valve cover breather issue, what you can do, is run the two lines together to an oil seperator can, and either vent that to atmosphere, or you can vent that can back to the intake where the breather lines currently go. Also, if you do have them vented to the intake tract, make sure they have one-way check valves to prevent pressurizing under the valve covers with boost pressure.


oh, and nice numbers; looks pretty good so far, can't wait to see your further progress.
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I have a GREAT set of PCV seperator canistors made by a Corvetter guy ... AWESOME quality. That is the plan, to reroute after scrubbing the oil and feeding the line back pre-turbo & post-MAF (how it currently is). However, I must first take the entire system apart and clean out the tubing and FMIC as oil residue has probably pooled in the FMIC :mad:
 
I will play around with the EBC for a few more times and if I can't sort it out, I will definitely be reverting to a manual boost controller ... you never hear about these issues with a manual unit.
 
AEM Tru-Boost ... I love the gauge, but the controller has a setting called "crack pressure". This is the pressure that the wastegate will begin to crack open when under boost. Even though I have a 13 psi spring in the wastegate, it begins to open around 10.5-11 psi. I had my crack pressure set too high and thus why I was surging in the last video. After that run, I lowered the setting and it ran fine. I just need to play around with it some more and get it set properly. Once that's done, I should be able to play around with the duty cycle setting on the different boost settings.

The AEM Tru-Boost has 3 boost settings and/or channels. "A", "B" & "Scramble boost". These are duty cycle settings and range from 10% to 90%. So, for example, if I set A to 10%, it's like being off and will run up to the wastegates spring value. Whereas setting into to 90%, it would max out the 13 psi spring. When I had the 3.63 psi spring in the car and had it set to 90% on setting "B", I was able to max out around 8.5-9 psi. So, if the same percentages hold true, the most I could get out the 13 psi spring is roughly double that, or 26 psi ... that will NEVER happen. Most this car will see is 18 psi on the dyno.

Scramble boost is in essence a 3rd setting, but only for a limited amount of time. This is used mostly in drag racing, as it's like a "Nitrous switch". The controller allows you to set scramble duty cycle and time. When you press a button, which grounds the input wire, scramble is activated, but only for the time amount entered.

So, I normally have "A" set to 20%, "B" set to 40% and then "Scramble" set to 60% for 20 seconds. Once I know what those values equate to in PSI, I can then adjust them on the fly so that "A" might be raised to 30%, "B" to 60% and "Scramble" to 90%. After testing, I would repeat this process until I got the desired results. HOWEVER, putting 16 psi down on the street in 3rd gear is VERY dangerous as 3rd will allow me to reach unsafe speeds for surface streets. I need to be able to hold the PSI for 5-8 seconds without surging to confirm the setting is good, and I just can't do that without putting myself and others in danger ... unless I put the car on the dyno again.

So, once I get the oiling issue resolved, I will be doing just that ;)
 
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Does it not allow you to do duty cycle vs. RPM? that's lame.

Also the duty cycle should be above wastegate pressure. 0% duty cycle should be spring pressure. 100% duty cycle will be that the wastegate never opens and will run as much pressure as the turbo can produce.

A wastegate should never run under spring pressure unless something is wrong or the turbo can't make that much boost.

Now wastegate's do typically crack somewhat under spring pressure but you've already figured that out.

So for simplification: Get a spring for the lowest boost you want to run + maybe 1psi for cracking effect.
 
Barge said:
kind of defeats the point of having an EBC
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Not really ... I have in essence 3 settings at my fingertips, with peak boost recall so I can see what happened. I also have a boost warning feature as well. All in all, it fits my needs and at the time, was only $265, which is half the price of much more adjustable units. Not only that, but I don't have to get out of the car every time I want to adjust the settings. Hell, I can do that on-the-fly while driving down the road. Let's also no forget that it's a vacuum/boost gauge as well and fits in the standard 52mm round housing. That was a big selling point for me. Watch this video and you can see why I like it so much:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaZ-s7s27Sk

These are my boost runs on the dyno that I managed to video tape. The last one illustrates the surging and at the end of the video, you see my hand reaching to make changes. I adjusted the crack pressure back to normal.
 
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you guys are crazy...... all this talk of turbo stuff makes my head spin. i bought my nitrous kit back. thank god. now i just need....... xcal with PRP, progressive controller, digital window switch, maybe a shift light, LSD,

oh lord. maybe i should put a turbo on it..... then i can fill every square inch of the engine bay! ;)

and from the looks of your video, your Air/fuel was all over the place. is your wideband way downstream in the exhaust? or was it just a basic tune?

and that puff of smoke..... looks like you might be building a lot of crankcase pressure, what do you have setup for the PCV? that oil seperator would probably take care of it. or venting it into the atmosphere.
 
sounds retarded. but wasnt there something that used a game boy to run the program? lol@ you guys. turbo guys are crazy
 
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