Exhaust Manifold Leak

[ub3rduck]

Hey guys, I recently picked up my first 2000 SVT and of course I've got a bunch of stuff to fix up. It's definatly got an exhaust leak as you can hear it pretty well and I'm getting exhaust fumes in the cabin, no good. Got under the car to check it out and it feels/sounds like it's coming from on the top of the top flange where the firewall side exhaust manifold meets the Y-Pipe flange.

My main question is the flange on the exhaust manifold welded to the pipe? Or is the same kind of setup like on the Y-Pipe like below?

Thanks ShavedSVT for the picture, haha

If it's welded then I've got a cracked manifold. How hard is it to get that manifold off? Otherwise it should just be a matter of a new gasket and retightening?

Thanks

 

[SHOgoFast]

The flange at the head is welded to the manifold. The rear is a real PITA to get off. I would doubt that the manifold is cracked as I have never read of anyone having that issue. Though I have also never heard of the stockers leaking unless they had been removed and re-installed poorly.

I would say if you go so far as to remove the old manifolds you should replace them with MSDS headers while you are in there. Just my .02.

 

[ub3rduck]

Thanks, I got under the car and also managed to get it on a lift. The flange welded to the rear manifold where it meet's the y-pipe is actually half cracked. I've had a shop tell me they wouldn't weld it back on because it would just blow out again? I dunno. The whole exhaust is kind of ghetto. One of the previous owners installed a cat-back and also had a universal high-flow cat welded in, and it was done pretty poorly.

It looks like we might be able to get a welder in there far enough to weld the crack shut at least temporarily without removing the whole manifold from the block. I might also have a crack in the pre-cat aswell though, but I haven't been able to get a good look at it. I may end up going the whole new MSDS headers route. I just dont' want to shell out $600 for new headers and definatly don't want to go through the hassle to install them, just doesn't look like a fun installation.

The exhaust leak gunk you shove in there is really starting to look appealing at this point lol.

 

[95Mike]

www.nautilusperformance.com

They have coated headers for $310 shipped. Build your own mil eliminators from radio shack for $10 or buys some from nautilus for $35. Not as cost prohibitive as you'd think. It's $600 for headers with the y-pipe and it looks like you already have an aftermarket y-pipe.

 

[ub3rduck]

That's a picture I borrowed from shavedsvt's post. I'm pretty sure I've got a stock y-pipe. Maybe I could do just the headers for now while I've got the issue to fix and pick up a y-pipe later when I have a bit more money.

 

[todras]

Smart man. The rears are the easiest IMO. Especially if you have a lift. I'd drop the radiator and fans to do the front. It will save you time in the long run.

 

[Harrry]

Smart man. The rears are the easiest IMO. Especially if you have a lift. I'd drop the radiator and fans to do the front. It will save you time in the long run.

I Agree, after seeing on stazi did my car in just a few hours. I know exactly how to put a set on now. Sometimes its best to watch others and learn it the correct way then it is you diving in and kill your firsts/hands doing this job.

 

[ub3rduck]

Well, I decided to just go the easy way and had the shop weld it all back together. I'm leaving in a few weeks for the summer and realized I wouldn't have time to install headers. The shop just cut off the exhaust just below the flanges and where it meets the pre-cat. Then he just welded in a small 4-inch pipe between the pre-cat and Y-pipe. It's kinda ghetto rigged, but they did a really really good job. He even sprayed the pipe with rust inhibitor.

Over all I was happy, car sounds waaaaay better now and it's fixed.