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Frustration: Front Rotors

PurpleMystique said:
The pads and rotors on my rears are only a couple months old. Right before I did this brake job, the handbrake was very tight, and suddenly it's way loose. This isn't just due to wear.
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then another possibility is your e-brake cables are worn out, on lightshow's silver SVT, the e-brake cable would pull up very high, but still engage, right after doing his motor install, we parked the car in the street, I cant remember who but one of us pulled the e-brake lever up, and the cable snapped, so now its super easy to pull, and it doesnt do anything at all.

Common for the e-brake cables to go bad on the contours.
 
I still believe it's just loose. I think that the brakes do hold...barely. When I yank on the handle while driving, the car pulls slightly left, but that's it. I'll take a look at it tonight.
 
PurpleMystique said:
Those wire spring things? I thought they were just for looks, so I left them off to save weight. Should I go dig them out of the trash?
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YES!!!!

My left front caliper bracket was TWISTED and warped when I bought the car because the clip was missing. The pads were wedge-shaped. :shocked: Had to buy a new SVT caliper bracket and almost a new SVT caliper because the screws were putting undue pressure on it.
 
Fellas, paper clips will do just fine.. :shrug: :laugh:

I hate bashing my wheels off from a winters rust, let alone rotors that have been on the car for few years. I felt sorry for the poor guy who had to replace the originals on the SE a few years back (they were about 7 years old) :laugh:
 
When I replaced my front rotors, the story was much the same...cept worse. By the time my rotors were off, I had about 40 pieces total, and a busted loose lug stud. Reminds me I still need to replace that hub...

You only need to bleed the lines if you break open a line, you can do every single brake job without touching a bleeder.

As for the EBrake, check that all of the cable is tight with the ebrake down. It should catch after about 4 clicks up.
 
try a piece of 2x4 and put that on the rotor, then hit it with a hammer. This distributes the hits evenly, and makes it easier to get the rotors off.
 
Oh and the trick I used to getting them off:Hammer in between the wheel studs, it brakes the rust up and pops the rotor off quickly. Thats how one of my studs got busted loose.
 
Further investigation has shown that the brakes all work when the brake pedal is applied, but the e-brake only engages the driver's side, not the passenger side. Do I need a new cable?
 
PurpleMystique said:
Further investigation has shown that the brakes all work when the brake pedal is applied, but the e-brake only engages the driver's side, not the passenger side. Do I need a new cable?
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Yup, might as well get two and replace them both since you'll be under there.
 
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