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how hard is a alternator to switch out?

I found it really helpful to have an assistant for the top bolt. With a lot of extensions (as described in one of the how to's) the top bolt can be reached from the drivers side wheel well but it takes one person under the car to guide the socket onto the bolt with a second person outside the car to turn the rachet.
 
With the proper swivels and extentions its not hard at all. Anyone with basic car knowledge can loosen 3 bolts.

ive done a bunch of alternators, but none on a contour, this is why i ask...thanks rawburt

Don't listen to RawBurt. He has done it 5, maybe more times. He can probably do it blind-folded and with one hand tied behind his back now :laugh:. The Duratec alternator is tough but not impossible to change out. And no, it is not like your regular alternators where it is on the top or where you don't have to remove the tie rod (some remove the exhaust y-pipe to make it easier). If you have to ask (after reading the how to), you probably should send it in to have it done. :shrug:
 
Not hard but it is a pain in the arse!!! If you can find a shop like I did that did it for 60(2nd one) then let them do it but i did my first one after one i would do it again but for 60 bucks i let them have it lol money well spent imo lol
 
I changed my first and hopefully last one on my 98 Mystique several weeks ago. It has headers and a different y-pipe and exhaust than stock so I don't know if that made it harder or what.

Anyhow, it took me around 6 hours from start to finish. I stopped several times to read inspirational posts on the forums by others who have done it so I knew it was not impossible.

The hardest part for me was getting that top mounting bolt loose. The how-to recommendation didn't work in my case but I eventually found the right combination to pop it loose. Air tools would have made this sooooo much easier.
 
Took me about 4 ours and it was a major PITA. Just no room to work up there. I think I got one bolt from the bottom and the other from the top. I never dropped the exhaust but I do have a BAT Y-pipe so I'm not sure how much easier that made it.

I'd say it's a 9 out of 10. The correct tools will make it easier.
 
I literally just did this last night.. I took out the CV joint and left the tie rod end on. Popped the lower ball joint. i used a Slide hammer to remove the CV joint with the FWD Axle remover... all rented from a local auto store.

I didn't use one single swivel but did use a few wobble extensions. I have the 3.0 liter and I swore quite a few times taking it out... putting it in only took about 45 minutes because I had figured out what extensions to use where.

I did not go through the top (coil area). I tried but a fuel line was in the way.

I would say just plan for a few extra hours and do it yourself. Then you know what kind of care was taken with it... I don't like to use garages unless I absolutely have to.
 
well i am on my 3rd alt my 98 likes em i guess .. but the factory 1 went out in 2003 i thought about it but the manual said im just to dumb not to pay someone to do it because it was a pita.. so i bought the alt and for 80 bucks i had it installed.. the installer said he wouldn't do any SVT Contours anymore lol .. but the most recent in nov 2005 my brother and i changed it because i was broke but he works for TRD "toyota" and he did it on the ground with jack stands in 4-5 hours and a few beers .. but it sucked, he is a master mechanic said it sucked get it done .. for the time and money i think it's worth it and i like doing my own work ...
 
You mustve been in heaven on that install with the axle out!

Wait, that wont help a bit I think....Fuel line? oh 3.0 liter nvm.


Yeah not to disagree with Rays method (love the write up) but I find it much easier to use some others method of popping that CV joint out... the top bolt is still a pita though.
 
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