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How much trouble am I in? (rim+curb)

I have the money but I don't want to pump $700 into a car that's only worth ~$1200 on a trade in, since I'm looking at getting a new car this summer. Maybe I'll have to do that sooner rather than later.
And doing it myself really isn't an option. I live in a dorm and don't have access to any type of garage or tools.
 
check your control arms. i have one that is so slightly bent, id never even noticed it until i replaced my rear calipers, ebrakes cables, and e brake handle. it doesnt do anything different, but if that control arm is bent enough it could be your alignment problem.
 
99.9999% percent thats what it is Control Arm, Knuckle, and maybe have to bend that sway bar a wee bit back to normal. Strut, maybe not.
 
Okay, just got it back from the second place. They quoted $90 for a used spindle ($200 new) and 3 hours labor x $80/hr so about $330 or so before tax. They're going to do it monday. Hopefully this fixes it.
 
Tony2005 said:
You know the drill. Get it read at Autozone or Advance and post the exact code(s). ;)
Click to expand...

Yep, just got back from doing that. P0401...EGR flow insufficient.
I'm pretty sure we've dealt with this before since all of the O2 sensors have been replaced at least once, sometimes more. My dad is checking through the service records at home to see if it could be a part still under warranty.
 
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PurpleMystique said:
... P0401...EGR flow insufficient.
....
Click to expand...
From 1996 Ford CD,

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0401 indicates that Continuous Memory Self-Test has detected insufficient EGR flow.
Possible causes:
-- EGR valve stuck closed or iced.
-- EGR valve diaphragm leaks.
-- EGR valve or flow path restricted.
-- EGR vacuum hose off, plugged or leaks.
-- VPWR circuit open to EGR Vacuum Regulator (EGR V.R.) solenoid.
-- EVR circuit to PCM open.
-- EVR circuit to PCM shorted to PWR.
-- Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (D.P.F. EGR) sensor pressure hoses both off.
-- D.P.F. EGR sensor pressure hoses reversed.
-- D.P.F. EGR sensor VREF circuit open.
-- Downstream pressure hose off.
-- Downstream pressure hose plugged.
-- Damaged orifice tube assembly.
-- Damaged EGR V.R. solenoid.
-- Damaged D.P.F. EGR sensor.
-- Damaged PCM.

I suggest you do the EGR suck test (vacuum test) to determine if it is the DPFE or EGR which is the problem.

Edit. From Old Forum

EGR vacuum test.

"(remove the green vacuum hose from the top, be careful as it is brittle, and apply a vacuum (attached a small hose and suck on itl) to see if the car stumbles while running. This indicates a properly operating EGR.

Does it work properly?

NO: The EGR valve is defective or the EGR passages are clogged. Check (and clean, if needed) the passages behind the Throttle Body. Purchase a TB gasket, and remove the air plenum (rubber accordion tube) then remove the TB. Clean the EGR passage (small cut-out in the outer edge of the TB's mating surface) really well, install a new gasket and re-attach the TB. If the passages are clear, the EGR valve is defective. While rare, they do fail.

YES: The EGR valve works and the passages are clear. The likely fault is the DPFE sensor or its sample hoses, followed by the EVR solenoid or the PCM. May also be caused by interconnecting vacuum lines or electrical connections."
 
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Okay, got it fixed. They replaced the bent spindle and did an alignment, total was $360, and he said the frame might be a tad bent since they couldn't get it perfectly aligned, but with regular tire rotation I shouldn't have a problem.
 
Yeah, that's what the guy mentioned. He said it would be about $200/pull, and he couldn't guarantee they'd get it on the first pull. He said that it's so minute that it won't be a problem. Apparently before they fixed it there was about 3 degrees of negative camber.
 
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PurpleMystique said:
...He said that it's so minute that it won't be a problem. Apparently before they fixed it there was about 3 degrees of negative camber.
Click to expand...
What reading is it now?

Edit. For my 1996 LX V6, the range was supposed to be -1.4 to 0.6 degrees for the camber. The toe was supposed to be 0.05 to 0.25 degrees. I think it should be the same for yours. You may want to consider aftermarket shims (if your mechanic hasn't already done it yet).
 
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He didn't tell me what it is now. I'm looking at getting a new car this summer (sooner hopefully) so I'm not worried about it. Either way, the tires are new and they have an 80,000 mile warranty so I don't really care at this point.
 
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