Have you asked Stangkiller about you duplicating them? Being that it is his design he may not like you duplicating them without his permission. Of course at this point he may not care either way, but you should at least ask him first.
If you read what I posted right above you, there is a good explanation that basically said not much adjustment is needed at all, I'm not trying to drive on sidewalls, just want to make sure when I lower it, it will be able to reach stock camber levels without having to trust the camber plates which would make me nervous at every bump.
EDIT: Here's what Demon said in response to someone saying there isn't much adjustment to be had:
That is not true. The change in width at the eyelets is negligible over a range of multiple turns of the heim joint. The threaded joint allows for matching up the length and "squareness" of the control arm itself. Something to think about is that just a small change in the length of the LCA will make a noticeable change in camber. I don't have the exact measurement in front of me but there is roughly 22" between the strut tower and the ball joint. This means a change in LCA length of 1/4" will create roughly a .75 degree change in camber. (doing quick math) That is more then enough to pull even a severely lowered car back into a respectable camber range. I'd hypothesize you could get maybe (-) 1/3" of LCA length change before you go out of the limits. More likely you will run the heim all the way into the LCA before you get to that point though. I never tried it.
...I am leaning more towards the four bolt design as it seems like thats what people want including me.
He hasn't logged in for about 9 months, so how would I contact him? Either way I dont plan on making exact copies, and I am leaning more towards the four bolt design as it seems like thats what people want including me.
in for a two bolt if the op would answer my question. thx
That's because you're an idiot who doesn't realize what it takes to purchase DOM tubing, Plasma Cut/Laser Cut/Waterjet Cut/Machining of the flat plates for mounting the balljoints, as well as the tools involved to build them the correct way...tubing bender, lathe for tapping the bars for the heims (hand tapping sucks), decent welding machine, and the know-how to build a jig for ease of fabrication that's capable of repeated fabricated usage that doesn't go all kittywampus when you're welding things together.
Front suspension component fabrication is not something to be trifled with. Small amount of camber adjustment wouldn't hurt much, but put in the wrong hands you can throw your steering inclination off which effects your scrub radius which aids alot like caster for directional stability. If gone too far, handling will suffer. Too me the negative effects out number the one bonus of a little camber adjustment. Believe it or not, there is a reason Ford didn't design camber adjustment into the front MacPherson setup. I'm not 100% sure on this and could be wrong, but I think the effects show up faster on vehicles with rear steer such as the Contour has.
The only "joke" I see is your consistant low ball actions followed by other forum posts about "I'm gonna turbo my car...custom this...custom that...projectors..." the list goes on and on. So with all the big talkin' laundry list of expensive pipe dreams you have for your car, you wouldn't shell out a measly $300 for some tubular control arms?? This totally deserves some trout slappin'. Good luck with your build baaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha!
Here's your sign: :troutslap:
Theres your answer. Its really simple, if you dont like the price then DONT BUY THEM!! This is only an interest check, I am currently looking to get prices from several other shops.
Anyways I just pulled a four bolt control arm from a car at the junk yard so I have an example when I take them in.
Interested in 2-bolt complete kit
Complete
1. Chas
2. 79mustang351w (2 bolt complete kit bare)