LoL, I bought 4, and could of used 1 more for the courtesy light option, since mine still doesn't work... I should just disconnect it.... Anyways though... here is the wiring diagram at the keyless module for a 96 Mercury Mystique GS...
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immobilzer bypass module
- Thread starter ubnpast
- Start date
LoL, I bought 4, and could of used 1 more for the courtesy light option, since mine still doesn't work... I should just disconnect it.... Anyways though... here is the wiring diagram at the keyless module for a 96 Mercury Mystique GS...
I started installing the alarm today, got about 1/2 done and figured out they sent me the wrong 14 pin harness, I thought I was missing wires lol.
Anyway I just wanted to clear some things up, Ive read that I can use the ground on the courtsey light for a - door trigger, but I am skeptical on arming the car when the light is on (for about 12 seconds).
Also, I need a - parking brake input, can I just tap into the switch or is it a + signal that id have to use a relay to change it?
My alarm doesnt seem to have a courtsey light feature, when I unlock the doors will it still come on like stock?
Now for unlocking the doors, do I have to diode isolate the 2 wires or can I just use 1 to unlock them all?
Finally for the trunk trigger, I am assuming I have to run the wires to the trunk?
Anyway I just wanted to clear some things up, Ive read that I can use the ground on the courtsey light for a - door trigger, but I am skeptical on arming the car when the light is on (for about 12 seconds).
Also, I need a - parking brake input, can I just tap into the switch or is it a + signal that id have to use a relay to change it?
My alarm doesnt seem to have a courtsey light feature, when I unlock the doors will it still come on like stock?
Now for unlocking the doors, do I have to diode isolate the 2 wires or can I just use 1 to unlock them all?
Finally for the trunk trigger, I am assuming I have to run the wires to the trunk?
The door triggers should be 2 separate wires, one for the drivers door, and one for the rest of the doors.... Which you need to diode isolate and Y together as a negative door trigger... which should be setup right for negative trigger, at least mine were...
I tried to setup the courtesy light feature in mine using the door trigger as the activation, but It says I need a relay... so I just haven't bothered with it... I've learned to live without... so no.. it won't do like your factory did... but maybe your module will if hooked up.... mine was a viper 791xv...
Door unlock will require diode isolating the two unlock wires and Y'ing them together kinda like the door triggers, i believe lock is one wire....
Trunk trigger I had to run one wire to the trunk light for trigger... other than that though, your trunk pop, door lock/unlock, should all be at the keyless module on the passenger side...
ok, but instead of using 2 door triggers can I just use the courtsey lamp by the drivers foor well as a trigger, it supplies a ground when doors are opened or if the handle is lifted... Do you think I can use the ground on the courtsey light for a - door trigger? I am skeptical on arming the car when the light is on (for about 12 seconds).
Also, I need a - parking brake input, can I just tap into the switch or is it a + signal that id have to use a relay to change it?
Also, I need a - parking brake input, can I just tap into the switch or is it a + signal that id have to use a relay to change it?
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Well you'll have to test if it actually rests ground when the doors are opened and no ground when they are shut... I would recommend the 2 wires for the door trigger and diode isolating them.... that way you don't have to worry about arming issues... mine were right at the top of the fuse box, so they were really easy to get at and do.... just make sure your diodes are going the right way....
Parking brake... I think that is your neutral safety switch for remote start... if you have a automatic it the wire should rest at negative when the shifter is in P or N, I believe.... other than that if you have a manual, I have mine dioded and hooked to my e-brake, and also has a bypass switch as well... (which reminds me, I turned it off, I need to turn it back on..) In order for my remote start to work on my 99 SVT Contour, the e-brake has to be on...if the e-brake is turned off or the brake next to the gas is touched before the key being put in the ignition and turned to run, the car will kill, as well as if they engine rev's to high.... Has a protection in case the gas gets stuck for some reason, shuts the engine down.... Also... I have a switch on my neutral safety, which most remote starts come with... to shut it off for servicing or lending it someone else... so they don't accidentally remote start it in gear and put it into a wall....
Well it is a 5 speed, and I am just curious to as why I need a diode for the parking brake?
I have never used diodes, I am assuming they are like a capicator with thin wire coming out of each side, and they should be soldered to the wire itself?
Any arming problems?
Man... your making me have to remember.... lets see... I believe when I was testing the wire for ground... I was getting ground even with the e-brake was off.... umm... I think that was the reason... I put a diode on the wire for the indicator light so I was only seeing ground from the brake trigger and the light would still work like it was suppose to...
Read Up:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode
Most of the ones I've worked with look like the one 4 to the right, varying in size of course...
My crude drawing of how I did my diode... If I remember correctly my e-brake wire saw ground even with the e-brake off.... I diode isolated the negative trigger so that the input for the remote start would see just the ground from the e-brake....
Man... your making me have to remember.... lets see... I believe when I was testing the wire for ground... I was getting ground even with the e-brake was off.... umm... I think that was the reason... I put a diode on the wire for the indicator light so I was only seeing ground from the brake trigger and the light would still work like it was suppose to...
Read Up:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode
Most of the ones I've worked with look like the one 4 to the right, varying in size of course...
My crude drawing of how I did my diode... If I remember correctly my e-brake wire saw ground even with the e-brake off.... I diode isolated the negative trigger so that the input for the remote start would see just the ground from the e-brake....
hmm im not quite sure what you are saying. there has to be some kind of switch that provides some sort of power or ground at the e-brake when on only.
If worst comes to worst ill make a switch or use a roller switch somewhere. Ill check it out tm morning and go to radio shack to see what they have.
There is a wire... I think mine was black/red... should lead right to the switch for ground on the e-brake... but the thing was that it was showing ground no matter what... e-brake on or off when the ignition was on.. which would of allowed the remote start to start without the e-brake being on.... What you need to do is take your multimeter and test your continuity to ground from the switch... so take your multimeter and plug it into the connection for the trigger switch on the e-brake and connect your other connection to ground.... then test and see if your trigger shows ground when it's off (e-brake down) and ignition on or off... you need to test it all.... Love to show you, but if you can't test it out and do it properly.. you need to find someone who can... the diode I put in kept my remote start from seeing ground when the e-brake was off.... my remote start only sees the ground from the e-brake trigger switch... e-brake has to be on for the remote start to work... if it is shut off before the key is put in and turned to run and the regular brake is touched, the system will shut down the engine.... mine the E-brake has to be one, the key has to be put in and turned to run, the brake has to be touched before the system will allow you to drive the car after it has been remote started.... Viper 791XV!!! please note signature...
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you shouldn't need to diode isolate the ebrake unless that switch is bad.
If you use the foot well light it well arm but zone 1 will chirp once until the light goes out. 12 seconds later. then it works perfect. Soo if someone can get in your car within 12 seconds of you closing the door you have larger problems
If you use the foot well light it well arm but zone 1 will chirp once until the light goes out. 12 seconds later. then it works perfect. Soo if someone can get in your car within 12 seconds of you closing the door you have larger problems
Maybe it was just me, but mine was showing continuity when it was off as well.... weird I know... I used the 2 door triggers and diode isolated them... I can arm mine as soon as I shut the door, I do sometimes have the shock sensor zone 2 go off if it isn't ready when I arm it right away after slamming the door.... Wouldn't the light work better if you put the light on door or off and not 12 sec delay?
Does it matter which alarm I have, because I am thinking that as soon as I arm it with the light on, the alarm will instantly go off.
I am now thinking that I can have the system auto-arm 30 seconds after the last door is closed, this would work, but would be suckey if I left my keys in by mistake.
Yes it would show the door is open, which in turn makes the alarm go off..
Usually mine takes a couple seconds to arm, and it will chirp on the remote transmitter if a zone is not ready.