it used to be water pump issue....

[cgreen]

98 SE, 2.0L DOHC, 168k miles

Last year (summer of course), the water pump went out. The warnings I received were the car dying when I was coming to a stop (usually in rush hour traffic). Happened about 4 times, never could figure out the problem until it completely died on the interstate at 75 mph. So I replaced the WP. Three times. Read on here to make sure and not get the one with the black plastic impeller. Last weekend, replaced it (#3), with one from O'Riellys with a white plastic impeller. Today, my car died when I was coming to a stop. Same symptom as before, but it couldn't be the same problem, could it? No check engine lights. When trying to fgure out the problem before, took it to a mechanic to see if there were any codes and no such luck.

Any idea if this might be the same problem or something else on the serpentine belt that might be dying? Replaced the alternator about 40K ago, but everything else is original.

 

[Tony2005]

Welcome . Drive to Autozone or Advance, get the codes read (free service) and post the exact codes here. When was the last time fuel filter was replaced?

 

[Ray]

None of your symptoms sound like a waterpump, to be honest with you.

Just because the CEL isn't on, doesn't mean there aren't any codes pending, and stored.

Follow tony's advice, and get them scanned. Report back here with the codes numbers (if any) and we can go from there.

 

[jamesmason]

If the Codes don't help I'd check your fuses in the engine bay and make sure none are loose or that where the wires insert into the fuse terminal are not loose. there are a couple of fuses that get bolted down from under the box and one of mine came loose and caused my car to stall every so often. tightened it up and haven't had a problem since. only try that if the codes don't work because messing with the wiring hareness under the box can be very trick.

 

[cgreen]

I'll swing by Auto Zone on the way home and see if we can find any new codes. I'll post them asap.

 

[cgreen]

Ok, so "No codes found." As a side note, I have been having what feels like a bumpy brake-thing (that's the official term) on the same side as the water pump (front passenger). I have tried to find the cause, but the brakes were just done in December, and the rotors and pads look fine (it feels like the rotors need to be turned). The bump seems to be worse as I slow the car (almost non-existent at high speeds, which makes me think it's not the brakes). Sorry for the mass of info, but I figure anything helps.


Thanks for the welcome, this site has been a lifesaver more times than one.

"Long time listener, first time caller."

 

[cgreen]

Also, it's been 25K since I changed the fuel filter. I regularly (every time I change my oil) use fuel injection/fuel system cleaner as well.

 

[Tony2005]

...As a side note, I have been having what feels like a bumpy brake-thing (that's the official term) on the same side as the water pump (front passenger). I have tried to find the cause, but the brakes were just done in December, and the rotors and pads look fine (it feels like the rotors need to be turned). The bump seems to be worse as I slow the car (almost non-existent at high speeds, which makes me think it's not the brakes). ...

Yes, turn the rotors and see if it helps. While it is up there, test/check wheel bearings, tie rods and lower control arms. Use the o'clock test.

O'clock test

Jack up the car one side. Place on jack stand.

Grasp wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and push in and out. Any movement, most probably suspect wheel bearing.

9 and 3 o'clock - tie-rod/ball joint.

Lower the car and do the same for the other side.

 

[shavedsvt]

i had this problem just yesterday. i had a pro-flo 75mm on my car, and after resetting the computer it did the same thing it stalled at stop lights, stop signs and when i pushed the clutch in. luckily i had the stock one still. i put it back on and it doesnt do it anymore. i think its a bad MAF