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my boosted 3L

That's not far from me! I am more south.
I do think my turbo seals are bad. It has been spinning oil ever since I got it. It's just worse now. A lot of smoke out the back until the oil pressure drops down. I am pulling oil from a plate at the filter. Figured it would be guaranteed oil feed and easy to do . Also this turbo is a duel ball bearing garret. So I was told no such rebuild kit exists.
How much would dirty plugs effect an emissions test? Would it cause it to barely fail?
 
if you are using a DBB turbo with the oil feed coming from a plate at the filter then you MUST use a restrictor on the feed line. if you are not using a restrictor then you have to much oil pressure going to the turbo which WILL cause problems. leaking oil seals from both the turbine and compressor side is the most common problem. what is the exact turbo you are using?


not sure if this is the correct size for your turbo but something like this is what you need.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=TP&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-022&Category_Code=

as for a rebuild kit, I would not recommend rebuilding the turbo yourself. turbos are EXTREMELY sensitive to balance as they typically spin to over 100,000 RPMs. I would highly recommend sending the entire turbo to be rebuilt by a reputable company such as MTC. they do a great job at good prices and are very helpful.
http://shop.midwestturboconnection.com/main.sc
 
Yes thank you! I have asked many people, even local, and I get 50% saying do and 50% saying dont use a restictor. I have purchased tree different ones and none of them thread in to the turbo. I have one that starts but just a few threads. I am going to force it to thread just to save what I have left of the turbo. I just need to pass emissions first!. Will very dirty plugs cause me to barely fail?
 
you don't even force something to thread, you will completely distroy the threads and cause more problems .....
 
Not to state the obvious but two things. For your oil leak, you said you got this kit with no oils lines whatsoever, and no one has mention your turbo's drain. Like people are saying, we need pictures to truly help. Open a photobucket or image shack and take some pictures of your oil drain setup and where it enters the engine and your vacuum routing and people will be able to help you a lot easier.

I've never been a inspection guy but I have had a leaking turbo and I don't think you'll ever pass emissions unless you fix that leak.
 
Sucks! So I am getting to changeing the plugs this week, change the oil, and attempt to pass emissions one more time. Then I need to get a better cat if I fail. We will see. I will get pics this weekend and see if I did it right.
 
OK, I have officialy blew my seals. OIl is goin through the turbo into my piping and out the back. White smoke and I think thats why I can not pass emissions. Oil leak! Soooo, I am looking for a new or barely used turbo to replace this. What do I need to look for? I think waht I have is the t3/t4. not sure. Help me out if you know my kit. Also what trim? I know I can not use just any zturbo but I do want one fast! Please let me know. I am going to look at a few locally here but dont know if they would even be right untill after I try to run them.
 
Take it off, send it to Precision Turbo in Indiana. They will rebuild it and send it back for under $185 unless something bad happened.

The next thing you will need is an oil restrictor if the oil drain is OK. You can fill a 12 oz glass pretty quick if you take the oil line off, ask me how I know.
 
Hey I used to live in Boulder. When I wanted to tune my car I looked into these guys http://www.stangautotech.com/ They are SCT certified and do dyno tunes. they said they could do my Contour. You will have to talk to them I don't remember what they quoted me but the guy seemed very knowledgeable. You need to make sure nothing on your engine is wrong though you will have to fix your turbo and everything else they do a complete inspection on your car before they tune it (such as compression tests and stuff like that) and all of that stuff will have to be good before they tune it. Just something to check out maybe talk to them
 
I think I am going to have them do a final tune but for now Joey is helping me as I find all these little issues. TURBO#1
So I called Garrett today and there is nor rebuild kit. they sell the center piece but thats it. Also I am thinking that not only do I need a restictor but my drain line might not be hi enough on my pan. Is there anywhere else I can dump the oil to? Something with no-no pressure. Also can I vent my valve covers into the atmosphere? Put a filter in route though.
I am getting my tune to run a bit less fuel and I am getting hotter plugs. I am running iridium 103 Autolite. Joey told me that can be the reason I am not burning enough fuel and keep failing. I am soo very close! And the fact that my turbo is pushing oil into my engine gives more unburnt fuel.
Can the hot side of the turbo be kept on but put on a smaller intake side? There are a few new ones for real cheep, around $175-$250. I need to get this thing to pass.
 
no, you can not vent to atmoshpere from the valce covers. Also, from my understanding, the pvc air flow is into the valve covers, not out of it. I believe the only way to just vent them is to disconnect the pcv valve from the intake manifold also.

You can tap the block, that is the better location anyway. But you most likely would have to pull the enigne to tap the block. Also you want colder plugs, not hotter plugs, iirc.
 
BrApple said:
no, you can not vent to atmoshpere from the valce covers. Also, from my understanding, the pvc air flow is into the valve covers, not out of it. I believe the only way to just vent them is to disconnect the pcv valve from the intake manifold also.

You can tap the block, that is the better location anyway. But you most likely would have to pull the enigne to tap the block. Also you want colder plugs, not hotter plugs, iirc.
Click to expand...

Colder plugs when he is under boost. The stock plugs are needed to pass emissions because you can create enough heat at idle with cold plugs so you get alot of unburned fuel and rough idle. Do not vent the crankcase to atsmosphere you should have both valve covers going to intake before Turbo if you have the oil seperator vent between the heads where this one goes to the uppper intake. If you have the 3 liter intake you need the front valve cover going before the turbo and the back valve cover going to PCV then cover. I will send you the new tune that forces the PCM to go 15.0 using in closed loop. JOey
 
What about swapping intake sides of a new turbo. I found another garrett but the hot side needs to be changed. And the intake side is smaller too. Can I swap for a little while without issues
 
BrApple said:
no, you can not vent to atmoshpere from the valce covers. Also, from my understanding, the pvc air flow is into the valve covers, not out of it. I believe the only way to just vent them is to disconnect the pcv valve from the intake manifold also.
Click to expand...

^The PCV valve flows air from the crankcase into the intake. If it wasnt there, plugged or flowed the opposite direction the engine would never keep oil in it, because it would push out a seal and leak it all over the ground.
 
contourspd98 said:
^The PCV valve flows air from the crankcase into the intake. If it wasnt there, plugged or flowed the opposite direction the engine would never keep oil in it, because it would push out a seal and leak it all over the ground.
Click to expand...

that is what I said. the air comes into the engine via the valve cover and out through the intake. This is why the valve covers can not just be open to the atmosphere, unmetered air would be pulled through the engine. So if you want to have the valve covers open to atmosphere then the pvc would have to be disconnected from the intake and vented to atmosphere.


I recall people in the past talking about running oil seperators on the valve cover vents and never getting anything in them.
 
I am just trying to lower my crank case pressure somehow. I am going to redo thi oil drail to a higher spot on th oil pan and try yo rotate the center of the turbo a little. the drain is not directly on the bottom. So can anyone tell me if the tubo housings are swapable? I can get a Garrett but it is smaller (dont care right now) and the hot side needs to be swapped. Can that happen if they are both Garrett? And the new one does not have a waste gate built onto it!
 
newguyhooah said:
I am just trying to lower my crank case pressure somehow. I am going to redo thi oil drail to a higher spot on th oil pan and try yo rotate the center of the turbo a little. the drain is not directly on the bottom. So can anyone tell me if the tubo housings are swapable? I can get a Garrett but it is smaller (dont care right now) and the hot side needs to be swapped. Can that happen if they are both Garrett? And the new one does not have a waste gate built onto it!
Click to expand...


If you send the turbo to Precision they will be able to rebuild it.

If you want to lower crankcase pressure then get an electric vacuum pump. There is no place to put a mechanical one, but electric should work. Every pound of pressure released is free HP. My vacuum pump on the dragster is worth 35 HP at 12" of vacuum. Electric probably won't pull that much.
 
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