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Need some help from the 3L guys

96BlackSE said:
Yup! I really don't understand the entire process of porting the oval ports to accept the split port intake but thats just me
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Why not? Its so f'in easy and then it makes EVERYTHING else bolt up correctly because everything else is set up like stock. It helps make your 3L the most compatible 3L conversion done and you can feel confident that no matter what maintenance work you need you can take it to a shop and they can fix it like it was an ordinary contour.
 
warmonger said:
Why not? Its so f'in easy and then it makes EVERYTHING else bolt up correctly because everything else is set up like stock. It helps make your 3L the most compatible 3L conversion done and you can feel confident that no matter what maintenance work you need you can take it to a shop and they can fix it like it was an ordinary contour.
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It is most definitely easy! I have been working on my 3L heads for a few hours now, and IMO they look pretty good for a 1st timer. :) Now i don't have to worry about filling holes in the block, or cutting/welding the EGR tube, or brazing a fuel rail, or any of the other stuff. Grind the heads, get the center injector ports filled and everything else is just like a normal motor rebuild/swap.
 
warmonger said:
Why not? Its so f'in easy and then it makes EVERYTHING else bolt up correctly because everything else is set up like stock. It helps make your 3L the most compatible 3L conversion done and you can feel confident that no matter what maintenance work you need you can take it to a shop and they can fix it like it was an ordinary contour.
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Porting is more of a science/art rather than widening holes to accept different intake manifolds so I don't think its soooooo easy...

I am pretty sure if someone is able to swap themselves they'll be doing the maintenance themselves... And there is really not too much of a difference, its not like a completely different engine the UIM looks different and vacuum lines routed a bit different...

If the concern is to have a stock looking engine then I guess the only way to go is to use the 2.5 UIMs
 
99cougar said:
It is most definitely easy! I have been working on my 3L heads for a few hours now, and IMO they look pretty good for a 1st timer. :) Now i don't have to worry about filling holes in the block, or cutting/welding the EGR tube, or brazing a fuel rail, or any of the other stuff. Grind the heads, get the center injector ports filled and everything else is just like a normal motor rebuild/swap.
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Filling what holes??? Who needs EGR??? Don't braze the fuel rail get it welded...
The only other thing would be to figure out the routing of vacuum lines and cut and weld the TB bracket... :crazy:
 
96BlackSE said:
Filling what holes??? Who needs EGR??? Don't braze the fuel rail get it welded...
The only other thing would be to figure out the routing of vacuum lines and cut and weld the TB bracket... :crazy:
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With the filling of the holes i was referring to a hybrid with the 2.5 heads lol.

And i agree. I actually have my EGR turned of in my tune.

I guess it is just a mtter of personal preference, and i prefer to use the 2.5 intakes.
 
Well I disagree with you both

Well I disagree with you both

EGR is very usefull.

Also, there is NOTHING to the myth about having unequal runner lengths feeding ovalport heads causing issues. Fundamentally you still have a restricted runner size on the primary side below 3800 rpm feeding the cylinder in order to keep velocity up....only this time it enters with both valve. Yes the air speeds up and then slows down as it splits however it doesn't slow down to the speed of the ovalport because the air has momentum and at certain rpm it will continue to force its way into the cylinder. It is no different having the air from one runner dump into the wide cylinder than it is to having the air from one runner dump into the ovalport and consequently the "wide"cylinder.

Therefore between straight 3L and ovalport hybrid you get the best of both worlds with the manifold designed for low end torque to complement the svt cams, and the highest compatibility in all other areas with the least risk due to fabrication.


With all that said:
The old fashioned 2.5L heads/3L block hybrids are just fine if you cut out the shrouding on the valves from the side of the combustion chamber.
Once you cut that they resemble 3L heads anyway other than the oil drainback and the valves. A good porting of the valve bowl under the 2.5L valves will increase flow on the 2.5L heads without having to change the valves. This will produce good power on its own and equal many basic 3L drop-ins.

It should be determined by the amount of work you or you mechanic is capable of doing, what is most cost effective, and most convenient.
 
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