FavoriteMystaque
Hard-core CEG'er
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2004
- Messages
- 1,192
Sanyo makes a single din with tape as well (see Crutchfield) but the Pyle is better featured.
-
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New player in my 99
- Thread starter Aussie Ford
- Start date
How about no Scott!
Most speakers blow from distortion/clipped signals. Underpowering has nothing to do with it. Unless someone is increasing the gain/volume to adjust for it.
Say you have a 50wrms sub if you only power it with 35wrms its going to blow? NEGATIVE
fordsvt98
Veteran CEG'er
i guess i meant that distortion caused when you push a low-powered amp to its limit is much more likely to harm a speaker than too much power.
Ya but that is not what you said.
Here in the Audio forum of CEG we try not to spread useless/wrong information.
So please in the future if you do not know what you are talking about, or are not 100% sure that the information you have been givin is correct please do not post.
Here in the Audio forum of CEG we try not to spread useless/wrong information.
So please in the future if you do not know what you are talking about, or are not 100% sure that the information you have been givin is correct please do not post.
awsome, you are my hero:crazy: thanks for the help doing my radio .....douche!!!
fordsvt98
Veteran CEG'er
CarpePoon
Hard-core CEG'er
Wtf is all this for? videos of speakers being blown outside of boxes.......your point is????? You obviously did not read the link I posted. Our point is that underpowering speakers has nothing to do with them blowing. Its morons who do not know how to set up their amp for an underpowered setup. Plain and simple, end of story. Thank you, please come again.
Those videos are what you are using to back up your argument? 3 subs outside of a enclosure.
#1 link is of a sub with a obvious crazy power handling to begin with. Soo I doubt thats underpowering
#2 link is of a pyle Superblue or some POS Sitting on top of a box with a sub in it. Obviously a high power handling sub as well
#3 link is of a Re XXX I would assume that they are running in the 2k wrms range for it to move like that.
"I find your lack of knowledge disturbing."
#1 link is of a sub with a obvious crazy power handling to begin with. Soo I doubt thats underpowering
#2 link is of a pyle Superblue or some POS Sitting on top of a box with a sub in it. Obviously a high power handling sub as well
#3 link is of a Re XXX I would assume that they are running in the 2k wrms range for it to move like that.
"I find your lack of knowledge disturbing."
fordsvt98
Veteran CEG'er
YOU ARE NOT MY FATHERRR!
I will NEVARR JOIN YOU!!
I posted those cause it was funny at the time (for me anyway) and seeing the retarded look on that guys face from the brazilian one was funny as hell.
Anyways, I've bee doin some reading on the net, and I see views expressed leaning toward both ways of sub blowage. And in that lil article you posted Poonage, dude says at teh bottom that yes clipping "may" hurt the sub. blahblahblah.....I feel both ways are correct. ANd I dont know HOW I got mixed up in this, cause Im sure you can agree that if you got a sub that'll take 1000 watts with a fricken oversized magnet that you wouldnt go spurting 200 watts to it, max the gain, and bridge it with a lil 4 ch audiobahn.
I will NEVARR JOIN YOU!!
I posted those cause it was funny at the time (for me anyway) and seeing the retarded look on that guys face from the brazilian one was funny as hell.
Anyways, I've bee doin some reading on the net, and I see views expressed leaning toward both ways of sub blowage. And in that lil article you posted Poonage, dude says at teh bottom that yes clipping "may" hurt the sub. blahblahblah.....I feel both ways are correct. ANd I dont know HOW I got mixed up in this, cause Im sure you can agree that if you got a sub that'll take 1000 watts with a fricken oversized magnet that you wouldnt go spurting 200 watts to it, max the gain, and bridge it with a lil 4 ch audiobahn.
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...............
"I find your lack of knowledge disturbing."
made me lol........
qbcsvt
Hard-core CEG'er
Looks good to much color goin on for me....
- Amyn
- Amyn
See your fine until the last part.
As you stated: Underpower a sub will blow it.
Ill run 200wrms to a 1000wrms sub all day long with zero issues. It won't be crazy loud but still in an ideal enviroment the 1000wrms supply is only gonna be about 7db or soo louder.
The part about maxing out the gain = clipped signals which you didn't state before. Only stated that underpowering will kill a sub(which it will not)
Hell I ran a Diamond audio 10" T series I think for over 8 months off of 70wrms. Soo once again sorry, but you are totally wrong.
2 things destroy woofers:
1.) Exceeding thermal limits
2.) Exceeding mechanic limits
Both are caused by too much power*, not too little power.
*Actual power reaching the driver, not some potential power that an amp could possibly provide under certain circumstances. IOW, a 1000w running at an average or 10w to a 100w driver is NOT overpowering it. 1000w actually sending 200w on average to a 100w driver is a good way to melt voice coils. Overpowering can also take place by sending enough power to a driver to make it exceed it;s mechanical excursion limits.
Things that do NOT destroy woofers:
1.) Distortion (clipping, THD, etc)
Additional notes to explain the clipping thing:
When you clip an amp, it forms square waves. Contrary to popular belief, those square waves are not DC components, they are comprised of higher freq harmonics. Electro-magnetic motors like those used in woofers don't have the ability to accelerate fast enough to attempt to play a square wave. They don't hesitate at the top of the square wave for a fraction of a second, they simply round off the square wave while attempting to play it as close to a square wave as possible. The second factor is that woofers usually have fairly high inductance. Inductance is the electrical equivalent to mass in a car. Additional mass makes it more difficult to change directions quickly in your car, and likewise, inductance is what controls how quickly a woofers cone can change directions. Inductance controls the high freq extension of a speaker and determines how "fast" it is. So, when someone says their 8" is faster than a 15" because it's smaller or lighter, they are full of ****. If it's faster, it's due to it having lower inductance. If the inductance is not lower, than they are probalby just not hearing low (slow) bass. Where I am going with the inductance comment is that, as mentioned earlier, the extra power of a clipped signal is comprised of high freq harmonics. The highish inductance of most woofers will effectively make a natural low pass crossover, not allowing the speaker to try to play the high freq. It's why woofers can't play hgih frequencies effectively. So now, that clipped signal that can't be played is also not seeing the additional power being created. Where this can be a concern is moreso in home audio where the same clipped signal going to the woofer is going to the mids and tweeters. Mids and tweeters are getting hit with a brunt of the extrapower under the square wave and don't have the dissipation ability that a woofer has to handle it in most cases. While clipping itself won't kill a driver on its own, the additional heat caused by clipping will often times lead to failure in higher freq drivers, but rarely with woofers.
1.) Exceeding thermal limits
2.) Exceeding mechanic limits
Both are caused by too much power*, not too little power.
*Actual power reaching the driver, not some potential power that an amp could possibly provide under certain circumstances. IOW, a 1000w running at an average or 10w to a 100w driver is NOT overpowering it. 1000w actually sending 200w on average to a 100w driver is a good way to melt voice coils. Overpowering can also take place by sending enough power to a driver to make it exceed it;s mechanical excursion limits.
Things that do NOT destroy woofers:
1.) Distortion (clipping, THD, etc)
Additional notes to explain the clipping thing:
When you clip an amp, it forms square waves. Contrary to popular belief, those square waves are not DC components, they are comprised of higher freq harmonics. Electro-magnetic motors like those used in woofers don't have the ability to accelerate fast enough to attempt to play a square wave. They don't hesitate at the top of the square wave for a fraction of a second, they simply round off the square wave while attempting to play it as close to a square wave as possible. The second factor is that woofers usually have fairly high inductance. Inductance is the electrical equivalent to mass in a car. Additional mass makes it more difficult to change directions quickly in your car, and likewise, inductance is what controls how quickly a woofers cone can change directions. Inductance controls the high freq extension of a speaker and determines how "fast" it is. So, when someone says their 8" is faster than a 15" because it's smaller or lighter, they are full of ****. If it's faster, it's due to it having lower inductance. If the inductance is not lower, than they are probalby just not hearing low (slow) bass. Where I am going with the inductance comment is that, as mentioned earlier, the extra power of a clipped signal is comprised of high freq harmonics. The highish inductance of most woofers will effectively make a natural low pass crossover, not allowing the speaker to try to play the high freq. It's why woofers can't play hgih frequencies effectively. So now, that clipped signal that can't be played is also not seeing the additional power being created. Where this can be a concern is moreso in home audio where the same clipped signal going to the woofer is going to the mids and tweeters. Mids and tweeters are getting hit with a brunt of the extrapower under the square wave and don't have the dissipation ability that a woofer has to handle it in most cases. While clipping itself won't kill a driver on its own, the additional heat caused by clipping will often times lead to failure in higher freq drivers, but rarely with woofers.
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fordsvt98
Veteran CEG'er
Well I guarantee your jammin' brooks & dunn, at volume level 19, and not playin a Bass Mechanix track with a 30htz note at vol 30 with your amp gain at 100% just to test the DB either.....lol. Okay Ill stop, Ill stop.
lol.
fordsvt98
Veteran CEG'er
lawl. *squints eyes* is your name green or somethin....
Those videos are what you are using to back up your argument? 3 subs outside of a enclosure.
#1 link is of a sub with a obvious crazy power handling to begin with. Soo I doubt thats underpowering
#2 link is of a pyle Superblue or some POS Sitting on top of a box with a sub in it. Obviously a high power handling sub as well
#3 link is of a Re XXX I would assume that they are running in the 2k wrms range for it to move like that.
"I find your lack of knowledge disturbing."
Triple X subs are INSANE!!!! My old co-worker.... umm.. who works for circuit ****ty now.... since he was going to be forced to be MECP certified in 30 days for screwing up.... again.... , decided to quit... anyways though... he had a XXX sub one day in the bay, and plugged the VC directly into the wall.... which he only did for about 10 seconds... but the sub could handle it... I just about crapped my pants.... I had never seen it done before without totally blowing the speaker up.... I'd say there pretty good subs for power handling....
In reply to the Pyle audio.... IMO it sucks.... There usually cheap and cheap usually breaks and dies a lot quicker than something that was a known name brand and a little more money... I think pyle audio products are a pyle of crap... sorry if I'm stepping on anyones toes, but I really not impressed with their brand... they remind me of the no name brand fusion as well.... Looks great until you read the specs........ just my 2 cents...