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No Power :(

G

greasemonkey1489

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Messages
1,568
Location
Bloomington/Normal, IL
Ok here's the symptoms:

Cold
-Runs perfect, plenty of pep.

Normal Operating Temp.
-Idles low (600rpm)
-Slight misfire when cruising
-May surge a bit (500-650rpm)
-No power between 600-2000rpm
-No CEL, no codes

2.5v6, MTX, 95 SE
 
greasemonkey1489 said:
I can feel it misfire, the car will buck a bit. At idle, I can feel the engine shake violently every now and then. What light?
Click to expand...

When your car detects a misfire, what it will do is start flashing the check engine light. It will flash a set amount of times indicating what cylinder is miss firing.

Have you checked or changed anything latley? The first thing you should check are your plugs, then wires for now.
 
cel should blink when the miss fire happens.



as for the loss of power. sinc ethe 95 has the vacuum opperated secondaries they default to the open possition when the engine isn't running. its possible that there is an issue with the vacuum system and they are staying open. this would cause loss of power down low. check to make sure they close when the car is started.
 
BrApple said:
cel should blink when the miss fire happens.



as for the loss of power. sinc ethe 95 has the vacuum opperated secondaries they default to the open possition when the engine isn't running. its possible that there is an issue with the vacuum system and they are staying open. this would cause loss of power down low. check to make sure they close when the car is started.
Click to expand...

I'm with brapple on this one, because what you may beleive is a miss fire could be the secondaries stuck open, would be causing your car not to idle right or run right.

My next question which will clear everything up, how does the car feel while driving in the upper rpms? because If a miss fire is noticed while your driving the car, then you would feel it throughout the rpms. Say a failed wire or cracked spark plug those things don't correct themselves or go away at certain rpms, once they are broke, they are broke.
 
Harrry said:
When your car detects a misfire, what it will do is start flashing the check engine light. It will flash a set amount of times indicating what cylinder is miss firing.
Click to expand...
Is that a certainty? I ask because I'm more familiar with OBDII. With OBDII, the flashing only happens if the miss is severe enough to be categorized as a Type-A, "catalyst damaging" miss. And the light blinks at a 1hz rate, not a set number to denote the missing cylinder. I can't access an OBDI theory and operation manual... hell, I'm not even sure if they made them.

Harrry said:
If a miss fire is noticed while your driving the car, then you would feel it throughout the rpms.
Click to expand...
This is situationally correct. A slight compression problem will cause a miss at idle, but is often completely undetectable off-idle.
 
Could heat cause the IMRC to malfunction? I only notice the lack of power when the engine is hot.

I may be mistaking a misfire with the car just low idling and shaking a bit when it tries to correct the idle.
 
greasemonkey1489 said:
Could heat cause the IMRC to malfunction?
Click to expand...
No, not directly... being that yours are vacuum-actuated.

greasemonkey1489 said:
I may be mistaking a misfire with the car just low idling and shaking a bit when it tries to correct the idle.
Click to expand...
I'd say this is a good possibility. 600RPM is too low of an idle.

Sounds like your IACV may be stuck or sticking. What happens if you unplug it while your engine is idling @ 600RPM?
 
I think the car idles fine when it's cool (warmed up slightly from outside temp) then worsens when it gets warmer. Could a coil pack or damaged intake air temp sensor cause a lack of power? (it seems like it's not just low end now it's through all rpms :(
 
Things to check:

Vacuum leaks - have the intake gaskets been replaced? Check the pcv hose from the intake nipple to the valve.

Engine coolant temperature sensor - an improper reading affects mixture and can keep other codes from coming up.
 
greasemonkey1489 said:
I think the car idles fine when it's cool (warmed up slightly from outside temp) then worsens when it gets warmer.
Click to expand...
And that couldn't possibly have anything to do with the engine's differing air needs at different operating temps. So skip the easy, obvious checks for now. What's your fuel pressure?
 
Rogerm60 said:
Things to check:

Vacuum leaks - have the intake gaskets been replaced? Check the pcv hose from the intake nipple to the valve.

Engine coolant temperature sensor - an improper reading affects mixture and can keep other codes from coming up.
Click to expand...

The intake gaskets have about 300mi on them. All the vacuum lines have been thuroughly checked and replaced the ones with any signs of cracking. I just did a swap (just another 2.5l stock) and it ran great for 50 miles, replaced an o2 ran great again but then I started noticing a lack of power when the temp guage reads in the middle of normal. It seems any lower and it does great. It was about 50 last night and the temp guage never went past 1/3 and the car was performing like it should. That's why I think it's something temperature related. Coolant temp? Coil Pack getting too hot? Air temp sensor?

I'll check fuel pressure this weekend. I suppose the pump could be tired, the car only has 130XXX miles on it
 
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