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Officially Shot 90k 2.5L Duratec

NiggShevik said:
that link was very helpful, looks like i'll be getting my engine from here. Once i have the 3l in my possession, and the 2.5L out... how much work is left? Do some parts from the 2.5 need to be transferred and then it's ready to go?
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Glad to help you out with the link. I had found it somewhere else on this site, suggested by another member. Definitely good prices. I'm no 3L genius, but from what I read, I believe the parts to transfer over are the cams and heads (requires port matching) and UIM/LIM if you want, otherwise use the 3L UIM/LIM. Also I believe some grinding of the motor mounts is necessary. You should definitely look this up to be sure as I have only briefly skimmed over some 3L information.

This link has lots of 3L info
 
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FavoriteMystaque said:
That could be the clutch throwout bearing, since it stops when you push in the clutch. I hope so..
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T.O. bearing will squeak when the clutch pedal is depressed due to insufficient lubrication on account of resting foot on clutch pedal or leaving MTX in gear at stop lights, etc. The bearing gets too hot and the lube goes away eventually. It's not unusual for the bearing to require replacing before the clutch but it's easier to replace everything at once if you've got the car torn apart anyway. The bearing only spins when you depress the clutch pedal so it should be silent with MTX in neutral and foot off the pedal.
Karl
 
I'll give you 75$ for it. Trust me if you can't figure out what is wrong with it and you are taking it to shops for minimal work...you aren't just going to all of the sudden be able to do a 3L. And if u take it to a shop, they will steal your money and your car will never run again.

True story!
 
My car isn't running as it is. I honestly don't know what the hell to do with it, nowhere around here knows anything about my car, let alone knows how to do a 3l swap correctly. 75$ aint happening but good try. I want to bring it back to life but I do not know how.

A diagnostic is pointless, the engine is crapped out and needs to come out, and something different and better must go in. Its just a matter of how.
 
Never said it was bad deal Todd, just messing with you. However, I keep my deals on the dl, so I won't be posting them up anytime soon. I just snag them when they come along. :)

Are you dropping another 2.5 or a 3.0 in it?
 
So there's an available 2004 3.0l taurus with 22k on it for under $700. Should i hop on that?
 
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Well here's what's going to happen.

I'm going to Brazil at the end of this month, for a month. In between now and then i'm going to get as many parts as possible for my 3l swap.

I'll start with getting the new 3l in the next few weeks hopefully.

The car is going to go into the driveway until the end of July. I was wondering, my driveway is slanted, it's cool to leave it there for a month or two if I'm just going to be rebuilding it right?

I'm gonna take this car off insurance, so as of now, it's a project and i've only got my parent's rides to borrow.

After i get back I'm going to tow it to a friends house with a garage and tools where i will be able to perform the swap. I'm going to do this nice and slow so there are no problems. I'll keep you guys posted. Hoping to be done by september just in time for school.
 
I read (I believe it was Stazi's post) that 2004 is actually a year to stay away from being that zircon (sand) could still be trapped inside the block from casting.

Here it is:

Stazi said:
Get a post 2000 motor and save yourself the headaches - plus it'll be in better condition than any older motor. Stay away from the 2004's due to a possible issue with those having trapped zircon from the casting process, still sitting in the block. Zircon = sand = BAD!
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I'll look a little bit older than 2004 then. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
 
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Does 2003 suffer from the same problem? I'm seeing some with some good prices with relatively low mileage.
 
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