• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

optimized throttle body...kind of awesome

rollinstylee, i vote you post pics. even if it is one the car.

and now that i have my uim/lim off i might as well opt the TB. i have not looked at it but how would you go about removing the front shaft? or will i see how once examined. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so umm meh.
 
I thought about taking pics but was too lazy and there are other pics of optimized tb's on here, so I didn't feel like it would enrich anyone's life. The bar is really easy to cut out, you'll see when you remove it. It's a round shaft with a slot cut through the middle for the throttle plate to slide through. I just took a hack saw and cut out the front part so that instead of a slot, the plate bolts straight onto the back section of the bar.
 
kinda like this?

gallery_799_28_167159.jpg
 
rollinstylee said:
I thought about taking pics but was too lazy and there are other pics of optimized tb's on here, so I didn't feel like it would enrich anyone's life. The bar is really easy to cut out, you'll see when you remove it. It's a round shaft with a slot cut through the middle for the throttle plate to slide through. I just took a hack saw and cut out the front part so that instead of a slot, the plate bolts straight onto the back section of the bar.
Click to expand...

bingo, thats what i was looking for. thanks
 
I should note on mine that is was done by machine. the back side of the shaft was flattened out and the screw wholes as you can see on the plate where counter sunk...
 
BrApple said:
I should note on mine that is was done by machine. the back side of the shaft was flattened out and the screw holes as you can see on the plate where counter sunk...
Click to expand...

I was gonna say that is a beautifully done mod. Looks great!

I haven't done the mod myself because I'm afraid of trying to countersink the screw holes. If I don't get them just right, the throttle plate will be askew and will either bleed air, or get stuck, or both.
 
TourDeForce said:
3 HP for a TB optimization is stretching it a bit IMHO. Not like you're getting a ton of extra air through there - especially considering the MAF still has a big vertical box beam running through the middle of it.
Click to expand...

A properly optimized TB increases open area, as well a smooths out flow. The material removed is about equivalent to increasing the bore of the stock TB to 63mm. There is a nice sized improvement in flow potential. Your engine will only draw in so much air (restricted by displacement) Optimizing decreases resistance to flow, and velocity through the TB.

As for the MAF....yes there is a big box running down the middle of it, but even with that box it has more open area than an optimized TB. It is not a bottleneck.

On a modified engine this will make a difference. Will it be 10HP? No. But surely enough to constitute doing it for the cost involved.
 
I optimized my SVT TB but to be honest didn't really notice that much differance.
I had the opening machined out as large as it would go, done the leading lip of the plate, half bared it, smallest cap headed screws I could find (didn't want to do the countersink route for fear of ballsing up the idle) & then polished the hell out of the lot.

Heres a few pics of mine for you
standard.jpg

standard.jpg

standard.jpg


I've got a 70mm TB off a Mustang that I'm going to do the same to but I need to port out the UIM to suit at the same time.
It's going to be a it of an experiment really to see if going from an optimized 65mm one to an optimized 70mm one actualy makes an increase as I've varying opinions on it
 
Here are some crappy cameraphone pictures of mine before an after. I couldn't get the screws off of the butterfly plate or the TPS so I just left those, but I didn't B-12/toothbrush the crap out of it, along with shaving down the screw and sharpening the leading edge.
Pix039.jpg

Pix041.jpg
 
Countersunk screws and machining down the back of the shaft provide additional open area. Ever little bit helps. There really is no danger in countersinking the screws if you use the proper equipment and are cautious. I test fit the plate probably 5 times during the course of countersinking to ensure all is well before each progressively deeper cut.
 
anouther thing to look at is make sure the TB opens all the way 90*. mine did not. I just shaved a small amount off the stop and all is well.
 
rollinstylee said:
On the old forums, quoting bnoon:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]"We have dyno proof of 3+ HP at the wheels on a 2.5 SVT for this mod with no other changes. We will post those results soon on our website."

That's where I got the number.
[/FONT]
Click to expand...

The gain of 3HP was across the entire RPM range. Peak gains were 8-9 HP at high RPM where the stock one fell off.

Just stopping in to say hello and had to see if my name was still being thrown around. Later guys!
 
bnoon said:
The gain of 3HP was across the entire RPM range. Peak gains were 8-9 HP at high RPM where the stock one fell off.

Just stopping in to say hello and had to see if my name was still being thrown around. Later guys!
Click to expand...

Good to see you, stop in more often. :cool:
 
Also to mention, those dyno runs were repeated 3 times with each TB, the TB swapped, brought to operating temp, then run 3 times again. 3HP above the best run with the stock TB across the entire RPM range and 8-9 up top (like at 6500 RPM-7000 RPM area).

thanks for the welcome back.
 
Notime soon. I'm building a hotrod of some kind, home built, body type unknown. Starting with some 2x3 rectangle tubing, a 6 liter iron block, and an auto 4 speed trans. It will be some sort of rat rod ruff rodders look to it. I've even thought of using a Beetle body from the windshield back, fenderless of course.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top