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p0172 p0175, nothing I try gets rid of them.. out of ideas

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Xanthus1132

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
68
Location
Michigan
Car's running rich obviously.. and at theses gas prices.. it's really killing me.

Things tried:
EGR Valve changed
DPFE changed
Oxygen Sensors changed
Lower Intake and Plenum changed
PCV Valve changed
Fuel Filter changed
Spark Plugs changed
MAF cleaned, not changed

Probably other stuff I can't think of off my head.. I am totally out of ideas..
All of the things changed/tried werent all to get rid of just the p0172 and p0175 codes, for example, there was a O2 sensor not switching code so I had that one changed and figured what the hell might as well change the rest -.- Any ideas would be greatly appreciated..
 
Have you checked for a vacuum leak? It's not common for the MAF sensor to fail, but if you find there is no vacuum leak, the MAF could be the cause.
 
It has an after market k&n air intake system.

No vacuum leaks can be found. Would the air intake cause the maf to fail? If I unplug it, the car will almost stall on its own after a bit or immediately after I start to drive it if that helps
 
It's common for an MAF to have issues when using a K&N due to the oils used on the filters. If the MAF gets contaminated with the filter oil, you can have these codes.

I don't think I've heard of a K&N causing permanent damage to the MAF, but needing a cleaning is very common.
 
So I should attempt cleaning it again? I don't know if this helps but whenever I get on the gas pretty hard, near the end of my gear, about 5000 rpm-ish the car feels like it loosed power for a second. Not long enough to throw a code though and then continues through the gear like normal. It does not do this consistently however..just when it feels like it I guess
 
Might be worth cleaning again. This happened on my brother's Zetec Mystique. I cleaned it twice and then it was fine. If unmetered air is getting by the MAF, the motor will choke up at different times.

Are you using electronic contact cleaner? Nothing else should be done other than spraying from the can direct onto the sensor. They are damaged very easily and shouldn't be touched directly on the sensor.
 
I'm using CRC Mass Air Flow cleaner. When I cleaned it last, I just took the sensor off using a t20 I think it was and sprayed from about 6 inches away at everything on it including the connectors for where the pigtail plugged into it. Should I be removing the whole housing and spraying in there as well?
 
Did you clean the EGR passages in the upper intake plenum? You have to unbolt the throttle body (replace the gasket too) and they're hidden back there. Dig around with a small screwdriver until its all open.

100_1896.jpg


It should look like this when you're all done. Also, check the vacuum lines going to the EGR valve to make sure there are no cracks which would prevent the EGR valve from opening.
 
I have not tried cleaning that.

Also, if you are talking about the vacuum lines that go from the dpfe to the egr valve, they were replaced with standard vacuum lines, even though at the place I work, there was actually specific lines listed to use there for whatever reason but.I didn't use them.
 
I suffered a very similar problem years ago in my 98 se. It turned out to be leaky fuel injectors. They never closed and would trigger the codes for running rich. A quick test to see if the injectors are leaking is to build up fuel pressure in the system and see if it leaks down fairly quickly after you turn turn the key off.
 
Thanks, however, a fuel pressure check has been done, it goes straight up to 50 Psi and stays there with no problem, even after turning it off the pressure is held completely with absolutely no drop at all.
 
how long after he key is off did you check the pressure? Most cars will hold the pressure indefinitely or at least overnight.
 
Try checking the pressure 3 or 4 hours after the key is off. I'm not saying this is your issue, but it doesn't take anything but time to make sure your not leaking down pressure somewhere. When I had this problem a few bottles of good fuel injector cleaner solved my issue.
 
Alright, ill give that a try while I'm cleaning the MAF again. Still not sure if I should be cleaning the maf housing as well though, I've never took that part of and cleaned it, just the sensor itself.
 
Just take the maf housing off and spray the inside of it with maf cleaner. you don't need to disassemble the actual sensor.
 
The sensor "wires" are the only things you need to clean. They are the two little things that poke into the air stream like filaments on a bulb. Make the egr passage cleaning next on your to-do list. It's pretty simple.

Yes, I meant those vacuum lines. since the stock ones are plastic, they become brittle and crack from heat or simply moving them around. If you replaced them, it should be fine.
 
Sorry it took so long to reply, been really busy. I tried everything suggested and the problem is still there.. whats weird though is last week, I got 13 mpg.. and this week when I filled up, i checked it and I got 20 mpg.. what the heck. This makes no sense to me, I've recently found out through looking up my car and doing some research on who owned it that it has a "Superchip "SFG2 Calibration" and a "A'PEXi Super AFC Fuel Management controller" Is it possible the chip needs to be "tuned" or whatever?
 
It used to have the A'PEXi Super AFC Fuel Management controller but there is no display unit or anything now so it may not now.
 
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