• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Removing Idle Air Control valve?

J

JohnHoward

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
54
Location
Wisconsin, USA
Hi,

My 1995 Contour 2.0L (4 cyl) idles too low. I suspect it is the IAC (Idle Air Control valve).

Has anyone here ever replaced one?

Haynes book says removed from under car, but that seems nearly impossible. I can possibly get the lower bolt out from underneath, but the top bolt seems impossible to reach. So I'm thinking maybe if I take off some of the plastic intake manifold stuff on top I can possibly reach it from above.

Anyone know or done this?

Any tips would be very much appreciated.

Thanks much!
 
JohnHoward said:
Has anyone here ever replaced one?

Haynes book says removed from under car, but that seems nearly impossible. I can possibly get the lower bolt out from underneath, but the top bolt seems impossible to reach. So I'm thinking maybe if I take off some of the plastic intake manifold stuff on top I can possibly reach it from above.
Click to expand...

I did exactly that, from above. I couldn't get to it from underneath. So I removed the intake tube, and a bracket that holds some wires and just pushed that back out of the way and reached across from the driver's side fender laying across the air plenum. Then it was actually quite simple at that point. Gave me a chance to clean the MAF sensor also.
 
JohnHoward said:
Hi,

My 1995 Contour 2.0L (4 cyl) idles too low. I suspect it is the IAC (Idle Air Control valve).
Click to expand...

Is your check engine light on? If not then i wouldn't jump right to the IAC. check the basics first.

Heres a test for the IAC valve. Start car in park, then unplug the valve. The engine should sputter or stall as the engine cannot start with the valve disconnected. If nothing happens or a little change happens, then the IAC is indeed sticking and should be replaced.

And yes above is easier. remove the intake plenums including the one on top of the transmission. You can then see/replace it using some extensions. (its kinda tucked underneath the intake manifold...stupid spot for it but oh well)
 
I had to get to it from underneath the car. I removed all the intake parts and still couldn't get to it well enough from above without removing the EGR valve.
 
I wish i had pics from when i did it, but its possible. maybe throw in a universal joint on ur ratchet, that could help.
 
Scorpion8 said:
I did exactly that, from above. I couldn't get to it from underneath. So I removed the intake tube, and a bracket that holds some wires and just pushed that back out of the way and reached across from the driver's side fender laying across the air plenum. Then it was actually quite simple at that point. Gave me a chance to clean the MAF sensor also.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's what I was hoping to hear. I should clean the MAF too once it's apart.
 
UmmScott said:
Is your check engine light on? If not then i wouldn't jump right to the IAC. check the basics first.

Heres a test for the IAC valve. Start car in park, then unplug the valve. The engine should sputter or stall as the engine cannot start with the valve disconnected. If nothing happens or a little change happens, then the IAC is indeed sticking and should be replaced.

And yes above is easier. remove the intake plenums including the one on top of the transmission. You can then see/replace it using some extensions. (its kinda tucked underneath the intake manifold...stupid spot for it but oh well)
Click to expand...

Engine light came on, but code is O2 sensor, which I replaced only 7,000 miles ago!

I would like to test IAC as you suggest, but I can't hardly reach the plug to disconnect it. Plus I already ordered the IAC as I got it at a good price.

This car has not idled right since I got it. Starts and runs good, but it idles too low. Not sure if it's the IAC. What else might be causing this low idle?

I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Reason I suspect IAC is because it happened on my old Ford Tempo.

I'll probably just throw the new IAC at it and see what happens.
 
KerryKool said:
I had to get to it from underneath the car. I removed all the intake parts and still couldn't get to it well enough from above without removing the EGR valve.
Click to expand...

You couldn't get the upper IAC bolt off from above with the intake parts off? That's what I'm aiming for. But I see what you mean about the EGR. That guy is right there blocking the IAC.
 
UmmScott said:
I wish i had pics from when i did it, but its possible. maybe throw in a universal joint on ur ratchet, that could help.
Click to expand...

Possible from underneath? Maybe, but it looks easier to remove intake stuff and go in from top. Plus also to clean the MAF.

Can/should you clean the EGR valve too?

Once I got a code for the EGR valve too....
 
You can test the EGR valve by letting the car idle then grabbing the hose attached to it and sucking one end of it. If it starts to sputter or even dies out, its working correctly. But it doesn't hurt to clean it out especially if you want to remove it to get to the IAC.
 
KerryKool said:
You can test the EGR valve by letting the car idle then grabbing the hose attached to it and sucking one end of it. If it starts to sputter or even dies out, its working correctly. But it doesn't hurt to clean it out especially if you want to remove it to get to the IAC.
Click to expand...

Do you mean "sucking one end of it" or kinking/bending the EGR hose?

I don't think that I need to remove EGR to get IAC out (see next post). If that's so, then I don't want to mess with it and break something.

Thanks!
 
Update #1

Update #1

Just now I pulled the plastic intake parts off (MAF, etc.) and also the hold down clamp on the dual fuel lines and pulled them back with a bungee cord. After that I could see the IAC upper bolt as plain as day. Also the electrical plug on it. With that I called it a day and thought I'd report back to you guys.

Since I don't have the new IAC yet, I won't take the old one off yet.

Re: MAF. I see it, but should I clean it? It doesn't look very dirty. How do you clean it?

Re: EGR valve. I see that too and it looks old and original. I did get an EGR fault code ("181: Fuel system, mixture too rich. Check EGR valve") but since I also got a fault code for the O2 sensor (171 & 172) I concluded it was the O2 sensor's fault. I don't think I will mess with the EGR at this time now that I know how to get at it. Don't know why the 02 sensor would go bad after just 7,000 miles/5 years. Any opinions on that?

Re: PVC valve. I bought a new one ages ago but it was too hard to put in. Now I might tackle that again. Unless it proves impossible. Anyone replace their PVC valve on the 4-cylinder model?

What else should I do since I'm tearing into this thing???

Thanks!
 
The EGR valve has a small rubber vacuum hose attached to it. To do the "suck test" you can either suck the air out of that hose or use your own through that hole.

I had to drop the Cat. Converter when I replaced my PVC, and its not as hard as it sounds. IIRC, 4 bolts remove it from the header and it hangs down enough to get to the PVC. Ian has mentioned you can get to it without removing anything, but I'm not sure how.

Theres always a chance a new part could fail, so I wouldn't rule out the O2 sensor.
 
I haven't mentioned anything about the PCV! Do NOT put words in my mouth young man! ;)

You might be able to get to it from the top if you have the manifold heat shield removed...
 
you can get to the PCV valve easily with the heat shield removed and by removing the thermostat housing. with the housing removed you can get to the bolt that holds the metal tube from the PCV to the block (supposedly you can get to this torx bolt without removing the housing but i never figured out how). remove that bolt and then pull the tube away from the block and then you can reach back and grab the PCV valve.
 
KerryKool said:
The EGR valve has a small rubber vacuum hose attached to it. To do the "suck test" you can either suck the air out of that hose or use your own through that hole.
Click to expand...

I see the small vacuum hose on the EGR. But the "suck test" is still not clear to me. Could you please explain it in more detail? How exactly the "suck test" is done and what equipment is needed to test EGR valve?

I had to drop the Cat. Converter when I replaced my PVC, and its not as hard as it sounds. IIRC, 4 bolts remove it from the header and it hangs down enough to get to the PVC. Ian has mentioned you can get to it without removing anything, but I'm not sure how.
Click to expand...

Thanks for info on PVC. I might just tackle it as it has probably never has been changed. But if idle is fixed first, maybe just leave it.

Theres always a chance a new part could fail, so I wouldn't rule out the O2 sensor.
Click to expand...

That's my thinking too. It's been in there 5 years but only 7,000 miles. CEL starting coming on but going off again and now stays on. Ran codes and got 02 sensor error. If error persists I will replace 02 again.
 
striker2 said:
you can get to the PCV valve easily with the heat shield removed and by removing the thermostat housing. with the housing removed you can get to the bolt that holds the metal tube from the PCV to the block (supposedly you can get to this torx bolt without removing the housing but i never figured out how). remove that bolt and then pull the tube away from the block and then you can reach back and grab the PCV valve.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I have written that down. Sounds simple.

More detailed info on EGR "suck test" would be greatly appreciated. Not clear on how that is done. Special "suck" (vacuum?) tool or what?
 
You take the hose that Kerry mentioned, and you just suck on it like a straw. I know, it sounds really effin' weird, but that's the suck test :)
 
zorrex said:
You take the hose that Kerry mentioned, and you just suck on it like a straw. I know, it sounds really effin' weird, but that's the suck test :)
Click to expand...

or you can use a hand held vacuum pump if you have one.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top