Replaced WP but temp is higher now

[GridRacer]

Recently my WP exploded about 10min from my home. I noticed it when I heard a squealing for a second and when I looked down on the temp gauge it was all the way in the red area. I managed to drive to a parking lot and let the car cool a bit. I then drove with the hood just latched. It was a cool night so I thought it wouldn't hurt. Anyways I replaced the WP with a new unit from Ford that has the white impeller. My old one had the black. I also installed a new MotoRad 192 degree t-stat. After driving around the temp was in the M and A area. That seemed to high, but the thing that bothered me was that the fans were just spinning like never before. It just didn't sound right. On the old WP and t-stat my temps where always straight up in on the R and the fans kicked in after a while. I think the original Ford t-stat is 188. Anyways I took the 192 out and installed a MotoRad 180. Now the temp is between the R and M even with the A/C on and the fans come on like prior to the new WP from what I remember. I just don't know why the temp is still slightly higher now. Could it be because it's not a Ford t-stat?

 

[BrApple]

if the impeller exploded did you get all of the peices? they could be plugging up the cooling system ..


also the 192 degree thermostat is fine. also if you hvae OBDII what is the actual temp?

 

[GridRacer]

The impeller broke in 3 parts. When I put it together to see if I was missing any pieces, everything was there. I did flush the system just in case.

I don't own a OBDII scan tool so I can't say.

 

[BrApple]

really need to get a scanner or a non-contact thermometer to see what the temp is to determine if the gauge is even correct.

I know on my zetec it will read up to L but the temps are right where they should be.

 

[S2Knott]

my car does that too, the temp gauge goes all the way to the end of the l but i hooked it up to the scanner and it was normal i forget like 205 or 210 something like that even though it looks like its overheating.

 

[GridRacer]

really need to get a scanner or a non-contact thermometer to see what the temp is to determine if the gauge is even correct.

I know on my zetec it will read up to L but the temps are right where they should be.

I have a mini temp gun. At what location do I need to check?

 

[BrApple]

I have a mini temp gun. At what location do I need to check?

check the thermostat and the radiator, etc to make sure the temp isn't to high.


fyi the coolant temp should range from 190 to 212 given you have a stock temp thermostat. low fan will kick on at 212 and cool to thermostat temp.

 

[bobdorit]

In this car the Scanner dose not yield the correct temprature, it gives you exactly the temprature which the car ECU reads, according to the signal receives from the Coolant Temprature Sensor. and the thing is that ECU reads the temprature from CTS less than what is it actually, so the fans only come to work when the engine is very hot. The best way could be to measure with a calibrated gauge from the termostat housing.

 

[B3NN3TT]

I just replaced my WP and thermostat not long ago, same as you.

The problem is the MotoRad thermostat. I pulled mine out and replaced it with a 188° Stant from Advance Auto, and it's back to normal.

 

[BrApple]

In this car the Scanner dose not yield the correct temprature, it gives you exactly the temprature which the car ECU reads, according to the signal receives from the Coolant Temprature Sensor. and the thing is that ECU reads the temprature from CTS less than what is it actually, so the fans only come to work when the engine is very hot. The best way could be to measure with a calibrated gauge from the termostat housing.

how do you figure? when datalogging I get the same temp as the autometer water temp gauge I have installed ..... and the factory one responds faster too ....

also in previous data loggin the fan would kick on exactly when they should.

Right now I have my low speed fan set for 200 degrees and by my autometer temp gauge its sits right at 202~204 ...

 

[bobdorit]

As the scanners are not directly connected to the sensors like car computer! but connect to the ECU through OBDII terminal, so I figure out that what the ECU scans (scans car sensors continiously), external scanners get! I am 90% sure that all the loggers and scanners which are OBD standard compatible get their data from ECU. and this is exactly why there is OBD standard, otherwise each car needed its specific scanner to translate different voltage, current or resistance of CTS (for example) to temprature. this is what I got through intensive study I had through internet BUT:
OTHER WISE you can measure the current wich passess through the CTS or its resistance (like a multimeter) or its voltage with your scanner?
Do your scanner measures thoes?
I am only talking about 4 cyl. engines. Heating is a common problem with 4 cyl engines not 6cyl. I have a 97 and I am not sure other models have heating problem or not.
I had this problem with my car, the gauge used to go up to the end of L in NORMAL. then it was at that time, the fan came to work!
so I added a resistor paralel to the CTS (with two piece of wire) (At Autozone site I found the resistance of CTS at each specific temprature to figure out what resistance is needed ). just thought regardless of what is the real engine temprature, after adding the resistor paralely, ECU READS higher temprature than what it is, so fans come to work sooner. AND IT WORKED! NOW AS SOON AS THE GAUGE REACHES TO THE MIDDLE OF M in "NORMAL" THE FAN COMES TO WORK.

 

[bobdorit]

I hope you recal from the high school that how adding resistors paralel or series work!