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Started project free SVT today....

After rereading this entire thread I have a question. You had mentioned that you are planning to gut the doors. Seeing as it isn't going to have any rear seats, would it be possible to completely gut the rear doors and just weld the rear door skins onto the body with minimal support bracing inside? That would probably lighten it up quite a bit more.

Just a thought/suggestion. Take it for what it's worth.
 
i wasnt saying this car was 30..just saying i've heard on other forums(such as the sho or supercoupe)that it was that much:shrug:
 
ctmystique, while I'm sure josh is well aware of this site, I'll post it up for others interested, yes the door shells can be gutted but he'll lose the window or at least window functionality. So I guess thats up to him if he's able to fabricate some lexan replacements.

http://www.mummbrothers.com/T2_Stuff/T2Main.htm

and 95pgt-t, ya I'm sure the weight will vary greatly depending on vehicle, and that your car's sound deadening panels probably slightly differ from mine. I do want to add the warning that removing the sound deadening material will probably make using your car as a DD an absolute nightmare. OMG I dont even want to think of what the salt sounds like bouncing off the undercarrage without that stuff.

also I didnt mention but it will probably require josh to weld a few cover plates to the floor boards to cover plug holes, shouldnt be a big deal.

I'm not hear to thread jack josh so I'll refrain from further photos but I did finally drudge up my camera so I will be posting a few pics in pics/vids, but heres the drunk photo in question.

carrwt0.jpg
 
bensenvill said:
ctmystique, while I'm sure josh is well aware of this site, I'll post it up for others interested, yes the door shells can be gutted but he'll lose the window or at least window functionality. So I guess thats up to him if he's able to fabricate some lexan replacements.

also I didnt mention but it will probably require josh to weld a few cover plates to the floor boards to cover plug holes, shouldn't be a big deal.
Click to expand...

Nice picture.

So...to reply to the parts that concern me (and don't worry about thread jacking, useful information is always welcome in the thread).

I am indeed well aware of Mumm's site, and i'm actually going to be contacting them soon as they're not far from the area for some help on the build.

My rear windows will no longer function and all internal structure will be removed as i don't have a need for rear passenger protection. The rear windows will be lexan permanently fixed in the up position.

Front doors will be manual crank stock windows with a fiberglass skin over the door shell to provide some protection should something try to penetrate the door.

As for the cover plates you're talking about Terry, If I were you, I'd consider riveting aluminum cover plates instead of welding in filler panels, not only is it easier to install it's also a bit lighter and easy to modify in the future if needed.
 
Pole120 said:
As for the cover plates you're talking about Terry, If I were you, I'd consider riveting aluminum cover plates instead of welding in filler panels, not only is it easier to install it's also a bit lighter and easy to modify in the future if needed.
Click to expand...

I just mention that because the abundance of race tours we've seen come up for sale the past few months, every one of them, I've noticed they've been tack welding plates over them [hmmm, I probably should post alot of these photos that I've requested from these cars].

The stock plastic caps can be refitted and silicolned in place, but appearance wise looks quite ugly, but thats how I am leaving mine for the mean time.
[and just because its been asked way too many times as of late, I am more or less just prepping my car so someday in the somewhat distance future I can hand it over to a chassy shop to have the body truely race-prepped. But in the mean time trying to take care of as many of the small details myself to help keep the cost down]
 
hey josh, heres a question for you. did you remove the fuel vapor canister [wtf is it called, the thing under the spare tire well]. I remember asking questions about that thing years ago and thought it was 'safe' to remove... but as I sat under the car last night, I was doubting that.

also wanted to throw a few wiring tidbits at you. If you remove the cruise control box, you lose functionality of the horn [shorting pins 1 and 5 of the harness will correct that]. Also the cuise control box area seems like an idea place to relocate the IMRC if you extend the IMRC wiring a bit.
[I think I'll be working on my wiring about the same time you get to yours, so if you want a hand, hit me up, I'd be glad to drive up and assist]

and I dont know how far you are going on your 'old school german' weight reduction but its pretty easy to shave a half pound off each wheel hub assembly
 
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bensenvill said:
hey josh, heres a question for you. did you remove the fuel vapor canister [wtf is it called, the thing under the spare tire well]. I remember asking questions about that thing years ago and thought it was 'safe' to remove... but as I sat under the car last night, I was doubting that.
Click to expand...

I know it can be removed, you just get fuel odors from time to time. However you will throw a CEL without it, which is why mine is staying.

bensenvill said:
also wanted to throw a few wiring tidbits at you. If you remove the cruise control box, you lose functionality of the horn [shorting pins 1 and 5 of the harness will correct that]. Also the cuise control box area seems like an idea place to relocate the IMRC if you extend the IMRC wiring a bit.
[I think I'll be working on my wiring about the same time you get to yours, so if you want a hand, hit me up, I'd be glad to drive up and assist]
Click to expand...

I'm leaving my IMRC box where it is(without the cover), as i should be getting pretty good air flow in the area, so I'm not too concerned about it. I'm always open to having someone to hang out with while working, also helps generate more ideas.
 
Pole120 said:
I know it can be removed, you just get fuel odors from time to time. However you will throw a CEL without it, which is why mine is staying.
Click to expand...

Electrical Tape?

Or you could get a freakin PRP you slacker :) Free is a flexible term anyway, isn't it?
 
Barge said:
Electrical Tape?

Or you could get a freakin PRP you slacker :) Free is a flexible term anyway, isn't it?
Click to expand...

The car has to pass plug-in emissions so it can't have a CEL. I could potentially try registering it another county tho...

I've got enough parts sitting around to sell that a PRP is still a possibility, but I'm not banking on it just in case. I've got a motor and nitrous to buy yet too.

As for a small update. Mike and I are taking full advantage of the nicer weather to get some work done on the car.

Last night Mike pulled the brake and peddle assemblies out of the car and it's awaiting the transplant of the new parts. We started opening up the front sheet metal where the hood latch used to be and also got pretty far on lightening some front end parts. I'm intending to get some pics up tomorrow of the past few days progress. Tonight the door gutting will be finished, wich leaves nothing more to remove from the car. :shocked:
 
speaking of which, how do you pull the damn brake pedal. For the life of me, I cant figure out how to get that damn white plastic peice to seperate.
 
bensenvill said:
speaking of which, how do you pull the damn brake pedal. For the life of me, I cant figure out how to get that damn white plastic peice to seperate.
Click to expand...

Even doing it my second time it took me a while to get it.... you need to spread the plastic piece kind of far, i used a flat blade screwdriver to open it up while i pulled it toward me with a pliers until I got it past the notch it locks into, it took me probably 5 trys to get it. If this isn't clear enough for you let me know...

~Josh
 
Pics as promised....

Pics as promised....

All that remains to be pulled are that Ppower window regulators and cabin floor sound deadening.

msc023-1.jpg


msc024-1.jpg




We did some mock up of the front end after making a few modifications.The begin inning of the Drivers side HL intake can be seen as well as the modified headlight panel and lightening of the 5mph bumper.

msc025.jpg


msc031-1.jpg




Stock vs Track car, opened up a lot of area for airflow behind the grill thru the rad.

msc029.jpg


msc030.jpg
 
todras said:
How about some holes in the center section there in the firewall?
Click to expand...

If you're asking what i intend to do about them, I'm riveting aluminum cover panels. I'm also intending to use some of them for the new wiring harness to pass thru.
 
looks great josh, ya the cougars arent nearly as bad on blocking the rad airflow. that new air intake is going to be pretty sweet.
 
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