Strange brake problem

[morbid]

Looks like the part number has been superceeded with an incorrect part number. The new tube is completely wrong! I'll call Bill J tomorrow and see if he knows anything about it... I might end up having to make my own, which I would rather not do.

 

[morbid]

Seems it was probably the 1 tube that the dealer had was mismarked.... got the correct one from Bill J.

So, I replaced the booster line (with check valve) and the gromet. The line was much tighter in the new gromet, which gave me high hopes that the old one was leaking. After driving around for several days, I think it helped a *little* bit... but I'm still having the problems. Though... now when there's no resistence, the pedal feels spongy... so I'm going to attempt bleeding the master.. then bleed the whole thing again.

If that doesn't help... then I want to hook up a vacuum gauge to look at (probably the passenger) while driving. First I want to place it inbetween the booster and the check valve... then after the valve.

 

[chrisl311]

im not going to make a new post, because im not sure if i even have a problem. im curious because i just bought my 99 svt 2 months ago, its my second, my first was a 98 contour with the cross drilled rotors. the 99 came with baer's on the front, and i think the backs need replaced? the brakes feel great when first applied, but, when i apply for a hard stop the brakes dont really brake much more, and the pedal is pretty firm, and the abs seems to kick in too early. like i said they feel great at first, but dissapoint when really applied, and then abs. i want to say the 98 was better. btw, the pads on the baer's are plenty, so i wonder if there is something wrong? i appreciate any help. thanks.

 

[chrisl311]

i just wanted to maybe sort of kind of somewhat bump this please dont be mad i just wanted some feedback? thanks

 

[morbid]

I'm curious if we're having similar issues. The problem you're describing sounds like the same issue when I'm going at a moderate speed with moderate rpm's, then get on the brakes.

If you haven't done this, could you please try: Going about 20mph, push in the clutch and let the rpm's drop to idle, then jam on the brakes (make sure no one is behind you ). In this scenario, my car stops with absolutely no problems. I think mine will stop fine even at higher speeds as long as the rpm's are at idle.

I haven't had a chance to do further testing.... but it does sounds like Rara was right about my issue being vacuum related.

 

[CSVT985]

You are describing the initial stages of what happened to my SVT (Which as of right now is in a shop undergoing surgery)

I was driving home and the brake pedal was really hard and it would take extra force to stop the car. But once I got past the initial hardness the car would slow down normally.

My ABS would kick in way too soon, I think I hit the brakes medium-hard at about 30mph (in rush hour) and they all 4 did their thing.

Then about 5 minutes to my house I had to hit my brakes hard to avoid a dumb driver and this locked them down permanently. The brake pedal is fully extended but will not budge. Both calipers are frozen onto my rotors and I had to drive the car with them 100% applied (this was a really bad smell going home not to mention really slow)

Our initial dianosis is not the master cylinder at all as all the pressure releases when we disconnect the lines. The brake fluid was never changed by the original owner and I was stupid never to flush it at my 120k maintenance.

So the problem is most likely some brake fluid clumped up with some dirt or impurities and it is clogging my front brake lines. I would flush your system completely or at least check your fluid to make sure it is CLEAR and not BLACK like mine was (I feel so stupid).

 

[chrisl311]

cool bro good suggestion. ill check with the guy that put these brakes on if he flushed. (he shouldve because he put ss lines on)