• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

SVT #2219 Build Thread/ rejuvination

Didnt get as far as I wanted, go figure. But this week I was able to free up 3 of the 4 set screws on the ground controls. Then ordered a new collar from GC for the one I couldnt get. To get the three out It took heat, an easy out, impact gun and a few tries each. Then new set bolts with lots of anti seize. Kept the ride height where joe had them for the rear but droped the front about 3/8" for now and see how that works. Im sure Ill be playing with it more. The collars from Ground control are up to $22 plus $5.xx shipping, I was happy to see they sent me new set screws for all 4(even though i alread sourced my own) and new decals. Also got the rear control arms boxed in and painted and the calipers all painted up.

The semi boxed control arms before last coat of paint.
2012-12-22_16-26-58&.jpg

Calipers before rebuild and new speed bleeders.
2012-12-22_16-26-17&.jpg

2012-12-22_16-26-02&.jpg

2012-12-22_16-25-56&.jpg

What I got from GC.
2012-12-22_14-08-04&.jpg
 
Was in the garage tonight doing this......

2012-12-22_21-25-04&.jpg

2012-12-22_21-22-57&.jpg

for a christmas get together and decide while I wait I would do this.....(proceed to next post)
 
youre going all out on everything but you buy the cheapest pads and rotors possible?
 
Yep cheapest rotors possible and the pads although on the cheaper aspect of things are not near the cheapest. :) I have no need to go all out on brakes, of all my cars Ive ever owned I have never thought to myself man I wish I would have had better brakes. For what I do theres no need to spend Unnessary $$. At some point I may go with fsvt rotors up front and csvt front rotors in the rear, but that will be purely for looks.
 
solo92s10 said:
Yep cheapest rotors possible and the pads although on the cheaper aspect of things are not near the cheapest. :) I have no need to go all out on brakes, of all my cars Ive ever owned I have never thought to myself man I wish I would have had better brakes. For what I do theres no need to spend Unnessary $$. At some point I may go with fsvt rotors up front and csvt front rotors in the rear, but that will be purely for looks.
Click to expand...
The only problem I've run into with the cheaper brake parts has been the rotors warping prematurely. Other than that, with normal driving, cheaper pads/rotors have always been fine for me.
 
Sofar I have replaced the rear suspension and the ebrake cables with ones out of the parts car. Ebrake still sticks a little so Im not sure about that. I can pretty easlily turn it the rest of the way open with my hand and free up the rotors. So I want to see if once there is hydrolic pressure if it works? Need to bleed brakes put wheels on then gonna drive it out the driveway and turn around and set up to do the front, hopefully by mid week (the wife has a rare weekend off so there goes car working time, lol)

Old and new subframe.
2012-12-26_13-27-59&.jpg

2012-12-26_21-34-06&.jpg

2012-12-26_21-33-56&.jpg

2012-12-26_21-34-29&.jpg
 
Got the font suspension underway got the new strut asmblies in and one lca swaped out and the other ready to go in. Picture of that process kinda boring but still an update.

2012-12-31_18-12-09&.jpg

And the reason I couldnt wait to do an update. Had an old friend contact me about selling this for him on ebay.

2012-12-31_18-19-11&.jpg

2012-12-31_18-18-59&.jpg

Im thinking about bypassing putting It on ebay and just giving him some $$. Not 100% sure on it yet though. Its a dry kit part #82011, and Its complete minus the 65 and 75 hp jets which is probly for the better so I wont be temped to try them out. It has been installed in a car but the bottle was never filled. Been researching and think I have a good knowledge base on proper install and running it without harming my engine. Whats your thoughts? Should I hook it up for a fun time at the track?
 
Thanks tourenvy. Looking at pics of your car now. I guess Ill either have to change my wheels or not put on the pre98 trunk lid I have left over from my last svt. lol. Your car Is pretty sick though.
Got It on the ground tonight and took it for a quick drive. Need to bleed the brakes again tomorrow and a few other small odds and ends. For some reason with this car the poly filled motor mounts really seem to send the engine vibrations through the car, atleast compared to my last svt. It handles amazing on the mile and a half I drove it and cant wait to get the alignment and tires installed. Then after inspection I can throw on the spacers.
A few pics of todays work.

2013-01-01_16-03-01&.jpg

2013-01-01_16-03-21&.jpg

And a few crappy shots at night. Tomorrow hopefully some better pics.

2013-01-01_21-40-49&.jpg

2013-01-01_21-41-34&.jpg

2013-01-01_21-41-07&.jpg

Looks sofar like its getting dropped alittle more after winter. Will have to see how it looks with spacers and see what all fender mods ill have to do to keep from rubbing.
Also this was my first chance to really look over the engine. Looks like it will be getting pulled withing the next few months. Has a rear main seal leak it looks like and also a leak at the timing cover crank seal. Also a power steering leak where the lines go into the rack. Figure it will be good to pull the engine and trans and clean everything up really well and replace all gaskets and seals. Always something to keep me busy.
 
Car is looking great! Looks like it has the typical northern under body surface rust. How hard was it removing that rear subframe?
 
Thanks. Yea it has some typical surface rust but really nothing out if the ordinary. And nothing I wouldn't expect from a 13 year old car. The rear subframe is a pretty easy swap. A few bolts fought but nothing a little heat and impact couldn't handle.
 
Looking good. Just curious what part number front sway bar bushings you used. I have some Energy Suspension ones in my car and a set for sale in the classifieds...wondering if they are the same part number. Did you have to ream the slots out on the bushing mounts to get the swaybar to pivot free (so the swaybar stops didnt bind)? I ended up having to do that...but they work GREAT and I noticed a big difference when I hammered around some curves.
 
The part number for the front swaybar bushings was 9.5123R, they went in without modification. This is the second time Ive used them on a csvt. Got everything buttoned up today other than a final bleed on the brakes. Its still a little squishy and getting a jack under it detered me on a cold day like today. lol. Anyway I got a few shots in the daylight today nothing great but better than last nights shots.

Also decided against the zex kit as I spent that money elsewhere and bought another csvt(not sure if its parts or salvage yet).

2013-01-02_11-54-57&.jpg

2013-01-02_11-55-04&.jpg
 
Wow great progress! I didn't check in for awhile and its looking great. 3/8 lower in the front looks good.
 
I too had euros wheels for some time. Also running a per 98 trunk. Both look great on T green IMO. :) I ran 6mm spacers with 225/45/17's max low on GC's with those wheels and no fender mods, if that helps.
 
solo92s10 said:
The part number for the front swaybar bushings was 9.5123R, they went in without modification. This is the second time Ive used them on a csvt. Got everything buttoned up today other than a final bleed on the brakes. Its still a little squishy and getting a jack under it detered me on a cold day like today. lol. Anyway I got a few shots in the daylight today nothing great but better than last nights shots.
Click to expand...

Thats good. Those are the same ones I used on my car and the same as the set I have listed in the classfieds. On my car I had to take a die grinder and just make the slots a tad bigger so the swaybay didnt bind against the side to side stops (factory tolerance issues from one swaybar to the next I guess).

Car looks GREAT man!! Definately needs some wheel spacers. Love the stance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top