Too much time on hand think'n again!

[stocksvtcontour]

ya my gf's jetta has the onetouch up/down for the two front windows...its so nice being that "lazy" because then my "lazy" fingers can actually remain on the steering wheel instead of on some switch...wow i tell you, that actually defines laziness to a T...i hope my sarcasm is coming on really thick towards stocksvtcontour's comment

All of you realize I did not mean it as an insult. Some people would read my post and know what I am talking about, some won't.

 

[Aussie Ford]

Originally Posted by RespectTheContour View Post
ya my gf's jetta has the onetouch up/down for the two front windows...its so nice being that "lazy" because then my "lazy" fingers can actually remain on the steering wheel instead of on some switch...wow i tell you, that actually defines laziness to a T...i hope my sarcasm is coming on really thick towards stocksvtcontour's comment

All of you realize I did not mean it as an insult. Some people would read my post and know what I am talking about, some won't.

Ya know, now that you mention it, I'm so lazy I'm thinking of doing an auto up on the 98 harness I got and installing the bubble switches......

 

[Aussie Ford]

ya my gf's jetta has the onetouch up/down for the two front windows...its so nice being that "lazy" because then my "lazy" fingers can actually remain on the steering wheel instead of on some switch...wow i tell you, that actually defines laziness to a T...i hope my sarcasm is coming on really thick towards stocksvtcontour's comment

What year is her Jetta?

 

[Big Daddy Kane]

Since I have owned both types of switches, figured I'd chime in.

My 96 had the flat switches with the quick press/release that activated the auto down relay. PRO is that my knee doesn't activate the windows very easily. CONS are that you have to twist your wrist weird to use them, you can't really tell if you activated the auto down until you take your hand off it, and it's difficult to crack the window a small amount.

My SVT has the raised switches with the separate part of the switch that activates the auto down if you press harder. I noticed that for normal operation, both front window switches go down the same distance, but the drivers goes down further to activate the auto down. Maybe it can be added to the passenger switch? PROS are that they are easier to operate than the flat switches, you know when you operated the auto down (2 clicks), and you can crack the window easily. CON is that my knee will operate the passenger rear window on accident.

 

[Aussie Ford]

Big Daddy Kane,
Thanks for the info, it sounds like the raised switches are by just a small margin better. I think I'll look at the pinouts for that door harness connector (I only have 95 on my ford disk so if someone has the info for 98 pinouts I'd sure appriciate it). I know I'll have to open it up, and add the connectors for the lighted lock ring and door handle light switch, to it. If the pinouts are the same / similar, then it is no big deal to install. I think there has to be a bit of difference since there is another power wire in the "B" connector providing power to the rear windows (I think). I really haven't figured out why this was done or if I can make this harness work on my 95 since the power wires don't seem to be from the same source (spliced in the harness), and so may take another source for power the second one.

I have the auto down for the passenger side working, I looked at the other door switches in the 98, I got the harness with the raised switches from, and they were the same as in my 95 only the master was different.

Anyway it will be a bit-o-fun to see what it takes to do it. I don't like the reach and twist to operate the flat switches either, but havn't opened a window with my knee yet....

 

[Big Daddy Kane]

Guess I should have mentioned... I hardly end up operating the switch with my knee since my left foot is usually ready to use the clutch. Only on long drives with the cruise on does it become a small issue.

 

[Aussie Ford]

Guess I should have mentioned... I hardly end up operating the switch with my knee since my left foot is usually ready to use the clutch. Only on long drives with the cruise on does it become a small issue.

I wonder why they went back to the flat ones.

Last night I took the bubble switch apart and cleaned it up. For some reason there was a lot of fine dirt in it. The drivers rear switch was way to easy to pop out and in checking the switch body over there seemed to be a bit of warpage right by the hole for the peg on the button to go into. I took my heat gun applied some heat and the warpage straightened out. Have you noticed them getting overly hot?

Put some power on it and checked the lights. They all worked, I have checked function of the switches and they are good, so one step closer to install.

Got any critique on the post about how I did the auto down on the passenger side?

 

[Aussie Ford]

I've never found a relay when I've had the door apart. What you're describing sounds more like the switch on my GMC truck. If I hold it for two seconds or so, I'll hear a tiny electrick "click" and the window keeps going. My 'tour isn't like that. The down button has two positions. Position one is just regular down, and the window stops when you release it. It doesn't matter how long you hold it, as it never triggers the auto feature. If you push the switch farther, you move it into a spring loaded second position. Then the window goes auto. I had a Mitsubishi that was like this. I honestly don't think there is a seperate relay for the auto switch, or if there is it is built into the switch itself.

I took a harness and bubble switch out of a 98 Tour. There is a relay in the harness, it's postion in the door is in a hole at about 2o'clock from the speaker (same as other years). The connector for it is a bright green color. It has and extra wire that gets power from the auto position of the switch. It all operates similar to the flat switches, in general.

 

[Big Daddy Kane]

Have you noticed them getting overly hot?

Got any critique on the post about how I did the auto down on the passenger side?

Nope, they don't get hot at all since it's LEDs lighting them up. However, the contacts for both the down on the passenger front and the up on the passenger rear are dead. I have another on the way from LKQ off Ebay so after I get that put in, I can fool around with the old one.

On my 96, I messed up the slider for the rear window cutout one day. Pulled the switches apart to see if I could fix it, it's a mess in there with a bunch of small parts.

Haven't really looked it over much yet... seems easy to add, though... just copy what is on the driver's side to the passenger side.

 

[BadDoctorFrost]

Why would the 98 switches be any easier to just crack the window? With the flat switches, just click the switch twice and it will open a bit. That's what I love about European cars, you can cancel the auto-down and auto-up by pressing the button again. I wish everyone else would catch on :blackeye:

 

[Big Daddy Kane]

Why would the 98 switches be any easier to just crack the window? With the flat switches, just click the switch twice and it will open a bit. That's what I love about European cars, you can cancel the auto-down and auto-up by pressing the button again. I wish everyone else would catch on :blackeye:

Yeah, but you don't have to press the switch twice... just once.

 

[BrApple]

does any one know if the 98 raised switch can be directly swapped into other years or do you have to do anything else to get it to work?

 

[Aussie Ford]

does any one know if the 98 raised switch can be directly swapped into other years or do you have to do anything else to get it to work?

You can not directly switch it out without changing the wiring harness. They have different "A" connectors, and extra power wire in the "B" connector, and different relays. As stated in previous posts here. The wiring harnesses seem to have the same pinouts at the body harness connectors it is just the wires for the master switch and the mirrors (4 wire 98 vs 5 wire 95-97) that is different. I am currently working on adding additional features to the 98 harness to install it in my 95, such as the lighting group feature for the door handle pocket light, the exterior door handle courtesy light switch, and swapping out the power heated mirror wiring harness. The door lock, window motor, and lock switch are the same.

Fortunately the body connectors are easy to open and wires easy to remove and replace. I stopped by a Ford dealer the other day and got some (free) of those wire loom zip ties w/mounting stud to put it all back together and reinstall it. They were very helpful when I showed them one that I had cut off.

 

[Aussie Ford]

OK Here is the latest info...(insert ticker tape machine sound here)..... AUTO UP WORKS. It is not all that difficult, just add the auto down relay in the harness to the up wire. In short up wire goes to relay then out to white motor wire. The relay also gets wired to ground and power.

I used 98 harness w/ bubble switches and for auto up (you must use a pre 98 relay, 4 wire). Since I was installing this in my 95 there were some other items that I needed to change in the harness such as the morror (5wire vs 4 wire), and the interior light group w/ door handle switch. I started with the two harnesses and removed the necessary wires from the 95 and added them to the 98 door connector. After getting all the 95 wires in place I then added the relay into the harness teeing off at the sharp bend where the wires turn up to the lock and window switches. The power lock harness turns out here also. I left the wires on the relay connector as long as possible when I removed it and had to add about 6" to the power wire.

At this time I have not installed it in the car but tested it on the bench and all works fine. One note when I tested the light for the handle pocket I had about 8 bulbs in a little container that I had collected along the way. I always assume they are good. I stuck one in and nothing, put in another , and another nothing. Checked the connector and I had power. Tried another nothing, Checked the connector all the prongs looked good, put in another blul and light.... 5 bad bulbs in a row.....who would have thought that

 

[Aussie Ford]

Ok, so I finally got around to installing the passenger side power window with auto down. Three things happened first I get it installed and before I put the door panel on I plug in the lock and window switches to try it all out. Well I was in a bit of a hurry and forgot to plug in the door lock, DUHHHHHhhh. Fixed that, then I try the window and get this grinding sound, and notice there is slack in the cable when going down. Quit right there and go get another regulator. Install it, and that all works OK, auto down and all, even from the master drivers switch Lastly check the door lights and the little green one in the handle pocket isn't working. Dammm oh well grab a few out of a dish of them I have and after 5 bad ones find one that works Put it all back together and most would think it is a done deal right????

Well see, at u-pull-it the car I got the regulator from was a 96 Stique and in my color (pumice) too. Well the door panels have this courtesy light in the corners, and I think that's neat. Problem is someone has broken both panels. I grab the wiring harnesses for the extra light position and now I'm looking for those panels........ dam car I may never get this done........ oh ya I grabbed the rear dome light too. Then as I went by this 2k Tour got the door panel weather seals. They are more of a dense closed cell foam and might work better than the spongy ones on the other years. Anyway I got em and put in the passengers side for now.

Oh ya I also got a Ford alarm to try to figure out just for the heck of it. Need something to do while I wait to find door panels from a stique right

 

[AliasJerk]

I think you fit in great. People as a modern society is so lazy we will work harder just to be more lazy. This is a perfect example. Like when you have to move something heavy and would rather lift it he go get the dolly because you are that lazy.

I don't think its about laziness, I think its about looking cool as hell. how cool would it be to push all four of those buttons at once and have every single window open in unison without having to keep your fingers on the buttons.

 

[BrApple]

so does this make the passanger window auto down only or will it work like the drivers window?

 

[Aussie Ford]

I don't think its about laziness, I think its about looking cool as hell. how cool would it be to push all four of those buttons at once and have every single window open in unison without having to keep your fingers on the buttons.

Crap!!!!! why not just push one button and have them all do that? maybe one located in a filler on the instrument panel, or console...... hmmmm, I wonder if I could adapt a traction control switch to that use since I don't have that option on my car and it is a momentary switch

Why didn't someone say something about this before I got my doors back together???? (still I haven't found a good location to mount a relay in the rear doors , Yet

BTW, one last problem that came up when I installed the passenger side harness. So, everything was back together and it was getting dark and I had the lights on to check out the look.....cool.... I like the color of the interior lights, Ok everything looks good. Then yesterday I'm pulling into my parking garage at work and I notice the passenger window switch light is on and my other lights are off, what's with that???? You know, I start running all the wiring in my mind thinking about what could be wrong...... I pulled the switch and checked the lighting wire and nothing turn on the lights and it has power just as it should. Install another switch and Ta..DA........ bad switch everythings FINE

 

[Aussie Ford]

so does this make the passanger window auto down only or will it work like the drivers window?

It works like the drivers side from both locations, master switch and pass switch.

 

[HighPoweredKaufman]

in 2000 they got rid of one-touch driver's down.

Not on the SVT, so I assume they left it on all models.