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Top bolt removal on alternator

B

beyondloadedSE

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 29, 2000
Messages
3,799
Location
Louisville, Ky
I'm trying to remove this top bolt and I don't see how you guys are able get enough leverage to break the bolt loose. I've tried from both top and bottom of the engine and each time there is always something in the way. I've followed how-to's and it seems simple but doing it is another thing all together. Honestly, I've tried it Ray's way and I have no idea how he was able to get enough movement going between the main harness and valve cover. Mike's how-to has MSDS headers so I'm guessing that provides enough room. I had no problem taking the alternator off back in the day with the ADC turbo kit so it appears the stock rear exhaust manifold makes it difficult.

Has anyone successfully taken off the top bolt that has the stock exhaust manifolds? It seems near impossible. I've been going at it for 5 hours now. I'm done for the day. Hopefully I get an answer tonight or tomorrow morning. I'd like to pick back up on this tomorrow. TIA.
 
Honestly, the first time with a stock manifold I think I had to use my small impact drill with a 3/8" drive bit. I was still at about a 45* angle with the extensions and elbows, but it was just enough to get it moving.
 
Thanks Joe. I just ended up getting it. I found an earlier post from Todd saying to use 4 feet worth of extensions and universal and take it off from the drivers side wheel well. That did the trick. Thanks Toodles! :)
 
I had to do it that way too - was all ready to post it up but decided to finish reading the thread first - good job!
 
With my stock stuff I used mike's how-to positioning. It was tight, but I recall having plenty to extension. I think I tried with a impact too. Don't really want to revisit that repair.
 
Just got the new one put in. Overall time to replace was 9 hours but I dropped the y-pipe and half shaft bracket to make things easier. Honestly the hardest part was figuring out what tools were needed and how to position. I was constantly going back from 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives, deepdish and shallow, etc to find the right combination. After getting the old one out, the new one went back in without a hiccup.
 
When I replaced mine last year, we got the top bolt off through the top. We used a 3/8" ratchet pushed all the way back against the firewall, then put a breaker bar on top of the ratchet in order to get it to turn. Worked out pretty well.
 
I agree on dropping the Y-Pipe. I drop the Y-pipe and catback when I do my alternator changes (3 so far on 2 cars). It takes a bit of extra time to drop/re-hang the exhaust, but it minimizes the fight with extensions and swivels.

Edit: Going from the top, I've never managed to get the top bolt all the way out, like bhiggs89 described. Drop the exhaust and you're home free.
 
bhiggs89 said:
When I replaced mine last year, we got the top bolt off through the top. We used a 3/8" ratchet pushed all the way back against the firewall, then put a breaker bar on top of the ratchet in order to get it to turn. Worked out pretty well.
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This

offthewallds said:
I agree on dropping the Y-Pipe. I drop the Y-pipe and catback when I do my alternator changes (3 so far on 2 cars). It takes a bit of extra time to drop/re-hang the exhaust, but it minimizes the fight with extensions and swivels.
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This
 
Redlineracer12 said:
I also do it with the huge 4' length of extensions from the driver side wheel well. :D
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So do I, but not quite to the wheel well but I am fishing the extensions through the subframe area on the drivers side. It's a silly design, there is more than enough room to plop an alternator on the passenger top side of the motor by the front valve cover.
 
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