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What causes the gap on top of the strut tower? Under the retainer.

D

dlphnfn

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
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Location
Central Iowa
I recently replaced my stock suspension with all new components. In the front, I had a slight gap from that top retainer to the strut tower before I replaced everything. I just looked at it the other day, and it's still there. Is this to be expected? Can it be fixed? Should I even care about it? Everything was torqued to specs. Thanks.
Erick --
 
blu_fuz said:
If you have this:
DSC01659.jpg

get a new one of these:
DSC01678.jpg
Click to expand...


From this thread: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?26338-Suspension-Reviews!-Search-Here-First!
 
I replaced those mounts AND bearings! I guess I never looked at the new ones to ensure they were taller like that second pic, but dang, if this is the case, that SUCKS! :) I didn't want to have to pull all that back out just to replace the mounts.
Mine looks like blu_fuz' first pic, but barely off the surface. That's why I thought I just had a torquing issue...
Erick --
 
Well, if you replaced the mounts then there is nothing else to do and you just have to deal with it. I replaced mine that were in that picture and the "hat" that goes on top of the strut tower still didn't quite touch....... :shrug:
 
Yeah, that's what I'm seeing... maybe 1/16th or so from touching. I had my wheels cranked for installing some front bumper stays, and happened to check out the strut "hats" then too. They were a little further off the surface then.
Erick --
 
Yep normal, when you turn the wheels it cranks that hat up higher than it would be if the wheels are straight.
 
Yep. I have rebuilt and reused the stock mounts, they are impacted thinner from the weight load. After regreasing the bearing, put it all back together and shimmed up that airspace to zero with rubber washers from hardware store. Added a steel one too, had to slightly enlarge the opening to fit retainer inner boss like made for it. The previous setup thumped hard on freeway expansion joints from the looseness, now that is all gone, so is the airspace under retainer. Cost to washer that up about $5.

You don't even have to tear it apart, just take off top retainer and shim it up. It actually pulls the angled top of mount up harder to locate better inside the cone of housing.
 
Can you post a pic of what you did? I don't understand how you shimmed it without taking the strut out.
Erick --
 
He just shimmed on the top side of the strut tower, not the underside. See the pic with my finger pointing to the gap, that is the spot where he put the shims.
 
using the incorrect nut that holds the spring on the strut also will cause a gap. the nuts that come with the struts are for retaining the strut in the car, not for retaining the spring on the strut.
 
Yes, incorrect thickness lower nuts will affect that space. I simply pulled top plate off and added under it to make space disappear. Thinking I also used thinner lower nut to shorten that pull-up-to-tight distance, been awhile ago. If too much space you will need new mounts as they will be starting to fall apart up inside the cone, also, bearing may be coming apart. I didn't have but maybe 1/16", the mounts were impacted but still useable, bearings just needing grease. The spacers simply pull mounts up inside cone harder to pull up rubber mounted but solid. The space lets weight drop the entire assembly at freeway joints to impact with a hard thump. Fix it and a lot of the noise and impact disappear.
 
BrApple said:
using the incorrect nut that holds the spring on the strut also will cause a gap. the nuts that come with the struts are for retaining the strut in the car, not for retaining the spring on the strut.
Click to expand...

Anyone able to post pictures of the two different nuts? I'm pretty sure I know what brapple is talking about, but a pair of pictures comparing them would be nice to have in this thread. I took mine apart this weekend and both nuts appeared to be the same, so unfortunately I can't help with the photos.
 
Im with brapple on this one, I remember having the same problem when I did my springs/struts. Swap the nuts around, good to go.
 
One nut has an integral washer built into it to make it thicker. You don't need a pic for that unless you have no imagination. It's not rocket science. Look at the stackup of parts and figure out what it takes to make either stud parts thinner or the plate/rubber washer thicker. The integral washer nut goes on to hold the top spring plate down on strut/spring assy, the self locker with nyloc is the very top one, it holds down the top plate under the hood, the plate that sticks up in space loose. Whole idea is to pull the rubber cone of top mount up deeper and harder into the shock tower. Not TOO deep, consider that too much loading there will shell the top mount bearing. You only want enough to remove the play (airspace) in top plate.

Pictures comparing nuts are useless as once you have the looseness you are in no man's land and you must come up with something different to match your individual situation. Stock parts are probably not going to do it.

FYI, I broke the top allen part of strut shaft trying to loosen the top spring plate. I'm not a big changer of struts, I run them until totally dead, so here I am •••••ing about now having to buy TWO struts because of it. NO WAY, I say, I Dremel slotted the remaining end of the threaded shaft to be able to get a slot screwdriver in there to hold shaft from turning while tightening top of strut back to car. Works fine, somebody tell me how much THAT 5 minutes work was worth.
 
blu_fuz said:
^ :laugh:

I never noticed :ponder:.
Click to expand...

Oh my, how'd that get by my filter.

amc49 said:
One nut has an integral washer built into it to make it thicker. You don't need a pic for that unless you have no imagination. It's not rocket science. Look at the stackup of parts and figure out what it takes to make either stud parts thinner or the plate/rubber washer thicker. The integral washer nut goes on to hold the top spring plate down on strut/spring assy, the self locker with nyloc is the very top one, it holds down the top plate under the hood, the plate that sticks up in space loose. Whole idea is to pull the rubber cone of top mount up deeper and harder into the shock tower. Not TOO deep, consider that too much loading there will shell the top mount bearing. You only want enough to remove the play (airspace) in top plate.

Pictures comparing nuts are useless as once you have the looseness you are in no man's land and you must come up with something different to match your individual situation. Stock parts are probably not going to do it.
Click to expand...

Flange nut I believe is what they are called. My current setup was installed by the previous owner, so I don't know which nuts were reused. Both of them are flange style and look like the pic below. What I was wondering and thought a picture might help with, is if the nut that retains spring plate was shorter or of some design difference. Thats all.

94920A600L.GIF
 
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