Where to cut, what to cut and pics (altenator and crank)

[Big Jim]

Quit guessing. Read the seal.

 

[svtkev]

it is a heat tab, i work at a salvage yard and we use them, dont take it off it will void any warranty they may have gave you

 

[69Boss302]

it does say "void if removed" and it kind of fell off in my hand. Chewing gum would have held it on better. But it doesn't matter because it was a curb side guarantee anyway. But thank you for the info.

 

[OB1]

and on a seperate note...

Can someone, anyone, please post an actual picture of where the bolt for the damper begins? I don't want to cut the head of the bolt off and have more problems. I've been hacking on the cone part just in front of the damper and have not made any progress it seems. The only thing that is gone now is the actual pulley itself thanks the saw.

I just weny out & found the pulley part & I'm uploading a pic of it.

 

[69Boss302]

Pics added for everyone to enjoy

Pics added for everyone to enjoy

Now there are finally some pictures for future reference for anyone looking to remove the crank pulley and damper.

I used two bolts through the flywheel to hold everything still.

Notice that the pulley has been cut off between the pulley and damper.

With the flywheel chocked, I used a 1" wrench with a pipe slid over it for added leverage. With a decent amount of persuasion it finally broke free and spun off to reveal the damper bolt.

Remove that bolt and attach the pulley puller

Back off the pulley and then it's done.

 

[OB1]

I'll post these pics anyway just in case someone else has trouble & searches but this is what it looks like complete.

This thing is solid down to the threaded part for those that are cutting them.

Glad you got yours out boss, I just used a big air ratchet & a socket on the front of mine.

 

[69Boss302]

Thanks OB1, I'm glad it came off fairly easy too. And thanks for the pics because I'm a visual/hands on learner.

I find it strange that between here,NECO and FCO I couldn't find any picture references to doing this. Aside from a drawing that says to cut here, here and here. I needed to know what exactly I'm working with and how much room I have.

 

[69Boss302]

I made a foolproof way of marking the pulsewheel so I don't forget later. Only one side is painted and I even marked it.

More pics for searching. Pulse wheel

Now comes the task of identifying what this was. It was already broken when I got to it and I don't remember what it is connected to when I took it out.

 

[OB1]

That looks like the bracket that the y-pipe bolts to.

 

[eepals]

That's the bracket the Y-pipe will attach to for support. That one looks to be broken, or missing a part to it.

 

[69Boss302]

ok, good to know. I'll add that to the growing list of parts I still need.

 

[ctmystique]

I'm glad that you posted this picture that I modified.

Don't forget on the other end of the crank there is a bushing that needs to be cut off so that the transmission shaft won't bind against it.

I posted this earlier. I hope you didn't miss it. I didn't know about it and ended up breaking one of the tabs on my tranny case trying to pull the two together.

 

[69Boss302]

I do remember you posting about that bushing and I've read about it before but wasn't sure what it was. Again, no pictures and I'm a visual learner.

I was originally thinking that was part of that particular flywheel.

Thanks CT

 

[69Boss302]

What is the proper way of removing the crank bushing? I couldn't find it on the cd

 

[OB1]

You can cut it off flush with the end of the crank, this is what most do. we used to remove them by packing them with grease & sliding a solid shaft that is close to the ID of the bushing into it, but I haven't tried that on a 3L crank bushing.

 

[69Boss302]

I'm trying to help DemonofSteel find one for his 2.5 ATX install so it needs to come out instead of getting cut.

 

[OB1]

Pack the grease in it then find a bar, rod, punch, or something that is fairly close to the same size as the inside diameter of the bushing, with a few taps the pressure from the grease should force the bushing out, should is the key word here.

 

[69Boss302]

so the grease is going to be pushed in towards the crank and the bushing will pop out?

 

[OB1]

Thats what is supposed to happen. I looked at mine & just decided to cut it, b/c it seemed to be in there pretty good. The grease method works on most things & thats how we used to do pilot bearings & misc bushings around the shop. Let us know if it works I should've tried it but i didn't.

 

[SHOgoFast]

I cut notches on the outside of that bushing and then used a small gear puller to get mine out. Was pretty easy with an pneumatic cutoff wheel to do the notching.

If you go this route be careful not to remove too much material as the bushing needs to be sound enough to stand up to the pressure of the puller.