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yup

It's hit and miss, most of the time it's at the top of the pedal, but sometimes it will start grabbing right away at the floor. That's one of the most annoying things about it. I think I could have a bad slave in it. I used the SPEC one that it came with and wish I would have just left the stock one in there. :laugh:
 
Yeah this one is really inconsistent with the engagement point, it's always high in the pedal but it grabs differently each time, I end up over revving when starting out sometimes. I think I'll be putting my stock slave back in, it hasn't seen much use and it's a Ford OEM slave so I feel a little better about it.

I remember before I did my 3L and had the stock clutch it was no problem to judge the engagement point, you could do it in your sleep after getting used to it, it was very consistent. That's how I want it to be with the 3L installed. It's a pain because I'm really happy with the trans upgrades and the engine is running great, once the clutch is working properly the car will be a blast to drive.
 
When I had the spec, it grabbed closer to the top as well. I didn't like it. Stock felt soooo much better. Personally, I would just go with a stock clutch when you replace it. It held up fine in my old 3.0L. It seems like we are still searching for an aftermarket one that doesn't explode, have pad issues, etc. Spec used to be good, and some members like Tony and Blackcoog have had luck with their, but it seems like in the last 3 years or so, they have all started blowing up left and right.
 
elraido said:
When I had the spec, it grabbed closer to the top as well. I didn't like it. Stock felt soooo much better. Personally, I would just go with a stock clutch when you replace it. It held up fine in my old 3.0L. It seems like we are still searching for an aftermarket one that doesn't explode, have pad issues, etc. Spec used to be good, and some members like Tony and Blackcoog have had luck with their, but it seems like in the last 3 years or so, they have all started blowing up left and right.
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I know the aftermarket thing for our cars seems to be very spotty. I took a bit of a chance hoping to find something that would be another option but so far it's not looking that way (although I did talk to someone else using this clutch in a Contour and theirs is fine). F1 is keeping in contact with me so when it's out and I have a chance to look it over compared to the stock one I'll send them as much info as I can. I don't think I'll get any refund and if they replace something I'm sure it won't go in my car so I'm probably out of luck as far as getting anything back.
 
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I'd just cover your bases...

First I noticed you said you have 1k on the clutch and that you've already had it on the dyno, did you follow standard break in procedure?

Second check your clutch slave cylinder, located behind the pedal in the cabin check for small leaks.

Third have you tried bleeding the clutch line?

Fourth try blowing air into the transmission bell housing air to clear out the debris. I know TRicker had tried this and saw an improvement a while back.
 
I'll be a little more specific about the clutch mileage, I drove it nice some in town some freeway for about 700 miles prior to the dyno. Clutch held on the dyno for four or five pulls then it would not hold at all. We only let it slip twice and then took it off the dyno hoping to avoid cooking the clutch if possible. I thought maybe it needed more break in so for the next 500 miles I drove it like I was breaking it in, lots of normal shifting and no real hard pulls. After this I tried another third gear wot pull and it still slipped.

Master cylinder looks ok, no leaks that I can see and the system was bled thouroughly.
I'm not having problems with it disengaging which is characteristic of air in the lines or a bad master cylinder.

Maybe there is something blocking the pp or something is wrong inside the bell housing?
 
RFcsvt said:
I'll be a little more specific about the clutch mileage, I drove it nice some in town some freeway for about 700 miles prior to the dyno. Clutch held on the dyno for four or five pulls then it would not hold at all. We only let it slip twice and then took it off the dyno hoping to avoid cooking the clutch if possible. I thought maybe it needed more break in so for the next 500 miles I drove it like I was breaking it in, lots of normal shifting and no real hard pulls. After this I tried another third gear wot pull and it still slipped.

Master cylinder looks ok, no leaks that I can see and the system was bled thouroughly.
I'm not having problems with it disengaging which is characteristic of air in the lines or a bad master cylinder.

Maybe there is something blocking the pp or something is wrong inside the bell housing?
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I'm thinking that should be a long enough break in... however that said IIRC from my emails with Clutchnet (I know your running the F1 kit) he recommended 1000 miles for the break in period.

Well just to be specific there is a brake master cylinder and then there is the clutch slave cylinder. The master cylinder is clearly seen in the engine bay, but the clutch slave cylinder is located behind the clutch pedal in the cabin. That is the one you want to look at.

I'd try taking the rubber dust cover off of the bell housing where the throw out bearing fluid line comes in and take a look with a flashlight. Then try blowing it out with an air hose. One thing to try too... and I don't necessarily recommend it, but you could spray brake cleaner through that same opening on the bell housing to try and clean out the debris on the pp and flywheel. I believe TRicker tried this and had success, but I'm not sure. However if your planning on pulling it anyway if this doesn't work I guess you have nothing to lose.
 
Got it, it was the slave I checked then inside the cabin. And that's how I felt about the break in too.
I'll for sure check through the opening in the bell housing before it's out.

Thanks for the input, I'll let you guys know what I find.
 
so im thinking that i need to get to work o the csvt, but i work when its dry and wet when im off ugh...
 
RFcsvt said:
Yeah the weather hasn't helped this spring.
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Tell me about it. However I took today off to start sanding down the car for paint. Plan on getting the underside of the car all cleaned up, primered, and then painted with bed liner. My brother and I are taking off Friday next week as well with hopes of having the entire car painted by Sunday.

EDIT: That said if anyone feels like helping me sand the car down stop on over and I'll provide beer ;)
 
Yeah man get that thing ready, can't wait to see the finished product.

So I switched out my clutch today. The thing was glazed, worse on the flywheel side. I'm not exactly sure why it happened but it was pretty bad. It's out and the stocker is back in.
 
RFcsvt said:
Yeah man get that thing ready, can't wait to see the finished product.

So I switched out my clutch today. The thing was glazed, worse on the flywheel side. I'm not exactly sure why it happened but it was pretty bad. It's out and the stocker is back in.
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Ugly. Wonder if the TB went out then. Did you replace that too??
 
Tb was ok so I left it in and it seems fine. I'm wondering if my own carelessness may have caused this. Maybe I didn't clean the flywheel properly before it went in the first time or maybe I got it dirty while installing it. I'm not sure but I definitely won't make any mistakes with clutch installs now. I also replaced the rear main so hopefully the car is set for a while now.
 
Nevermind the 90k part, that paint scheme is terrible.

I could come up with a much cooler mustang for about half that much moola, so I don't know why anyone would want this other than the rare factor.
 
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