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Zetec Contour/Cougar header info
- Thread starter Teal4Banger
- Start date
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
I plan on adding a CAT down the pipe, however it will be too far for the second o2 sensor to reach and I don't feal like putting a bung in for it. So I will go with a MIL eliminator (or reprogram ecu). You are right however, I could move my second 02 sensor farther down after the new cat and be fine (no mil, no cel).
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
Well, I got the header on today, it took pretty much all day though :blackeye: .
It is definately louder but I think I can tell a slight difference when accelerating hard.
Funny story:
After getting it on and picking up the tools I decided to head to the gas station and fill up for a test drive. When I gunned it for the first time it gargled like my old 86 lynx I had in highschool with a shot muffler. I was so heartbroken - I mean I knew it was going to be loud but damn. The odd part was that it was loud under the hood - not from the back. I was going though everything in my head and after a few blocks it hit me... I forgot to put the first (heated) o2 sensor back in the header
. By this time I could see exhaust coming from under my hood and the car filled with fumes. After I got back home I checked and sure ehough the o2 sensor was lying in the garage. I installed it and headed out with my wife to our old house we're selling. The car was much quieter, but after awhile the fumes came back... strong... Later that night when we got home I popped the hood and looked around with the engine running ... smoke/exhaust was coming up from around the header... after another few moments I realized I hadn't put the oil dipstick tube back in. After installing this the fumes went away. :nonono:
Moral of the story: Pay attention to what you are doing and put everything back where it should be.
More info for those wishing to install this header:
I ran into a few hang-ups along the way:
1) Removing the factory Cat. The tube for the EGR valve was rusted to the cat and I had to end up cutting it of with a hacksaw - part of the problem was the location of the nut.
2) I couldn't get all four studs out of the cat where the exhaust manifold connects to the cat so I had to pull the Cat down first then remove the manifold.
3) In order to pull the cat down I had to: (item 1 above) and cut through the strap that holds the cat in place as this was rusted in place as well - prybar was a life saver to snap the strap.
4)The angle of the final pipe for the header is different than the stock pipe so it won't fit in the bracket at the rear of the engine. I just let it go without support at that location.
4) The Header requires two different sized gaskets for the connections on the pipe (middle and end) however it comes with two gaskets of the same size. The rear gasket was small so I had to cut the bolt holes out and center it.
5) No gasket was included with the header for connecting to the Head, Luckily I had one lying around (I have a complete gasket kit for when I have headwork done).
6) Because my car is a 96 with EGR, I now have a cut off tube in my engine compartment which will end up connecting to the air tube on my performance cat down farther on the pipe ( a certain cat is needed which has an air tube on the side). (This tube in my engine compartment originally went straight into the cat)
Other than what I've mentioned it went surprisingly well.
I installed this header on a 96 so I had some mods to do as mentioned abov. If anyone is wanting to do this I suggest:
1) Have plenty of sockets/extensions/whenches/pribars/hacksaw
2) Exhaust manifold gasket
3) Your own two-bolt flange gasket for after the second part of the header.
4) A full day devoted to working on this project (For those like me who aren't mechanics and to account for the rust factor)
Good luck.
Oh, last thing, after fixing my problems the volume came down. Sounds good now only a little raspy when first building rpm. This is with stock resonator and muffler. I will be going to 2.5" pipe (since I'm not going to pay for 2.25" mandel bent) with a performance cat (with air tube) and two magnaflow muffler in series (where stock resonator and muffler are).
Worth the mod in my opinion... will need a tune when everything else is done though.
Oh, also, after doing this mod I still DON't have the CEL. I didn't use a mil eliminator and have both o2 sensors hooked up. I'm not complaining.. just odd. So I've got the header and no check engine light... YIPPEE!
It is definately louder but I think I can tell a slight difference when accelerating hard.
Funny story:
After getting it on and picking up the tools I decided to head to the gas station and fill up for a test drive. When I gunned it for the first time it gargled like my old 86 lynx I had in highschool with a shot muffler. I was so heartbroken - I mean I knew it was going to be loud but damn. The odd part was that it was loud under the hood - not from the back. I was going though everything in my head and after a few blocks it hit me... I forgot to put the first (heated) o2 sensor back in the header
. By this time I could see exhaust coming from under my hood and the car filled with fumes. After I got back home I checked and sure ehough the o2 sensor was lying in the garage. I installed it and headed out with my wife to our old house we're selling. The car was much quieter, but after awhile the fumes came back... strong... Later that night when we got home I popped the hood and looked around with the engine running ... smoke/exhaust was coming up from around the header... after another few moments I realized I hadn't put the oil dipstick tube back in. After installing this the fumes went away. :nonono: Moral of the story: Pay attention to what you are doing and put everything back where it should be.
More info for those wishing to install this header:
I ran into a few hang-ups along the way:
1) Removing the factory Cat. The tube for the EGR valve was rusted to the cat and I had to end up cutting it of with a hacksaw - part of the problem was the location of the nut.
2) I couldn't get all four studs out of the cat where the exhaust manifold connects to the cat so I had to pull the Cat down first then remove the manifold.
3) In order to pull the cat down I had to: (item 1 above) and cut through the strap that holds the cat in place as this was rusted in place as well - prybar was a life saver to snap the strap.
4)The angle of the final pipe for the header is different than the stock pipe so it won't fit in the bracket at the rear of the engine. I just let it go without support at that location.
4) The Header requires two different sized gaskets for the connections on the pipe (middle and end) however it comes with two gaskets of the same size. The rear gasket was small so I had to cut the bolt holes out and center it.
5) No gasket was included with the header for connecting to the Head, Luckily I had one lying around (I have a complete gasket kit for when I have headwork done).
6) Because my car is a 96 with EGR, I now have a cut off tube in my engine compartment which will end up connecting to the air tube on my performance cat down farther on the pipe ( a certain cat is needed which has an air tube on the side). (This tube in my engine compartment originally went straight into the cat)
Other than what I've mentioned it went surprisingly well.
I installed this header on a 96 so I had some mods to do as mentioned abov. If anyone is wanting to do this I suggest:
1) Have plenty of sockets/extensions/whenches/pribars/hacksaw
2) Exhaust manifold gasket
3) Your own two-bolt flange gasket for after the second part of the header.
4) A full day devoted to working on this project (For those like me who aren't mechanics and to account for the rust factor)
Good luck.
Oh, last thing, after fixing my problems the volume came down. Sounds good now only a little raspy when first building rpm. This is with stock resonator and muffler. I will be going to 2.5" pipe (since I'm not going to pay for 2.25" mandel bent) with a performance cat (with air tube) and two magnaflow muffler in series (where stock resonator and muffler are).
Worth the mod in my opinion... will need a tune when everything else is done though.
Oh, also, after doing this mod I still DON't have the CEL. I didn't use a mil eliminator and have both o2 sensors hooked up. I'm not complaining.. just odd. So I've got the header and no check engine light... YIPPEE!
Last edited:
Rich2279
CEG'er
Glad to see the project eventually worked out for you. Great price you found for the setup. When I was looking the cheapest I could find was around $315, but you got it for a lot less.
D
devanmc
Guest
great info and that site for purchasing it has a great price so thanks!
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
UPDATE
UPDATE
I just wanted to post an update now that I've been driving with the header for a few days...
1) I definitely notice a difference under heavy acceleration. There is more power in the mid to high rpm range.
2) My check engine light finally came on so it will be there until I get a tune (and block the error) or a mil eliminator.
3) The exhaust has a buzz sound to it in the low to mid rpm range which makes it sound ricy. The over-all volume isn't really to bad though (with stock resonator and muffler, no cat).
So far I'm really glad I did the mod.
On a side note, I ordered the rest of my exhaust and hope to get it installed this weekend. I'll post again after the exhaust is complete.
UPDATE
I just wanted to post an update now that I've been driving with the header for a few days...
1) I definitely notice a difference under heavy acceleration. There is more power in the mid to high rpm range.
2) My check engine light finally came on so it will be there until I get a tune (and block the error) or a mil eliminator.
3) The exhaust has a buzz sound to it in the low to mid rpm range which makes it sound ricy. The over-all volume isn't really to bad though (with stock resonator and muffler, no cat).
So far I'm really glad I did the mod.
On a side note, I ordered the rest of my exhaust and hope to get it installed this weekend. I'll post again after the exhaust is complete.
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
i think we need a sound clip of it before and after you put the rest of the exhaust on.
Rich2279
CEG'er
I just wanted to post an update now that I've been driving with the header for a few days...
1) I definitely notice a difference under heavy acceleration. There is more power in the mid to high rpm range.
2) My check engine light finally came on so it will be there until I get a tune (and block the error) or a mil eliminator.
3) The exhaust has a buzz sound to it in the low to mid rpm range which makes it sound ricy. The over-all volume isn't really to bad though (with stock resonator and muffler, no cat).
So far I'm really glad I did the mod.
On a side note, I ordered the rest of my exhaust and hope to get it installed this weekend. I'll post again after the exhaust is complete.
You can make your own MIL eliminator. You just need a few Radio Shack parts (in the How To). I made 2 for my Duratec (approx. $5.00).
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
I got the rest of the exhaust hooked up Saturday. It sounds pretty good. Nice low tone, no rasp, and not to loud. I'll see if I an get a sound clip uploaded sometime soon. Although to be honest its winter and I'm in Iowa so it might be awhile.
Rich2279
CEG'er
Where did you order the rest of the exhaust from? Did you also get a new resonator and muffler?
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
Besides the header, the rest of the exhaust is as follows:
1) Car Sound high flow cat with air tube from Magnaflow 2 1/2" in/out. Inserted after the header collector pipe (immediately after where header connects to stock exhaust at the two bolt flange). Not sure of part #.
2) Magnaflow muffler replacement for resonator. 5"x8"x18", 2 1/2" in/out. Inserted where factory resonator was. Magnaflow Part # 12256
3) Magnaflow muffler replacement for stock muffler. 4"x9"x11", 2 1/2" in/out. Inserted where factory muffler was. Magnaflow Part # 11366
4) 2 1/2" pipe and tip
* Cost for install by Car-X was $200 plus tax. They couldn't hook up the air tube from the cat to the egr tube (which was connected to the factory cat) so I still need to have this done. I'm not really happy with Car-X on this one.
1) Car Sound high flow cat with air tube from Magnaflow 2 1/2" in/out. Inserted after the header collector pipe (immediately after where header connects to stock exhaust at the two bolt flange). Not sure of part #.
2) Magnaflow muffler replacement for resonator. 5"x8"x18", 2 1/2" in/out. Inserted where factory resonator was. Magnaflow Part # 12256
3) Magnaflow muffler replacement for stock muffler. 4"x9"x11", 2 1/2" in/out. Inserted where factory muffler was. Magnaflow Part # 11366
4) 2 1/2" pipe and tip
* Cost for install by Car-X was $200 plus tax. They couldn't hook up the air tube from the cat to the egr tube (which was connected to the factory cat) so I still need to have this done. I'm not really happy with Car-X on this one.
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
I had the code(s) read as a result of my CEL being on to verify that it was only from lack of CAT before the sensor. It's a good thing I had it checked... I have two codes, one is for the CAT, the other is showing that I am running lean now. Looks like I'll be getting some 24 lb injectors before the tune. :laugh:
D
devanmc
Guest
why are you runnning lean though? im interested im doing this soon. so if its from the increased power ill be need injectors as well.
Rich2279
CEG'er
Could it being running lean since the computer can not get a good reading from the O2 sensor due to lack of the CAT converter? Maybe put the MIL eliminator in 1st (before installing bigger injectors) and see what happens. It will give a "good" reading for the computer.
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
The computer doesnt look at the O2 sensor used to determine Cat efficiency to determine A/F ratio. it uses the upper O2 sensor for A/F.
Post the exact code before you do anything.
Teal4Banger
CEG'er
Codes are:
P0420 (Cat working below minimum efficiency - or something like that)
P0171 (System to lean)
P0420 (Cat working below minimum efficiency - or something like that)
P0171 (System to lean)
ButtonPuncher
Veteran CEG'er
The P0420 is because you don't have a MIL on your lower O2.
The P0171 is interesting. How old was your upper O2 before doing all of this. All of the wrenching/movement may have killed it.
Did you reset your PCM after doing everything? Pull the little 3 amp fuse in your fusebox and let it set for 5 minutes (with the car off).
BTW, I've always wanted to try this...
Do you notice surging at part throttle? I've always wondered if you could just cut the EGR pipe after the cat and just put a small air filter on it. To bypass the EGR system, not have it throw a CEL, and have a nice clean intake manifold all at the same time.
HTH,
BP
The P0171 is interesting. How old was your upper O2 before doing all of this. All of the wrenching/movement may have killed it.
Did you reset your PCM after doing everything? Pull the little 3 amp fuse in your fusebox and let it set for 5 minutes (with the car off).
BTW, I've always wanted to try this...
Do you notice surging at part throttle? I've always wondered if you could just cut the EGR pipe after the cat and just put a small air filter on it. To bypass the EGR system, not have it throw a CEL, and have a nice clean intake manifold all at the same time.
HTH,
BP
D
devanmc
Guest
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
thats a very good possibility. I completely forgot about him leaving the EGR tube open. The problem is that when the EGR opens it used to pull exhaust gas, which was burnt air/fuel. there is nothing left to burn so it would just dilute the mixture. now that its open to air it will pull unmetered air in. This will result in a lean mixture.
edit: what if you route the EGR tube back to the intake piping AFTER the MAF? it would then pull clean already metered air into the system. since it only opens under part throttle it may not be an issue. :shrug:
ButtonPuncher
Veteran CEG'er
Watch out because then you'd be double metering the air.
The DPFE monitors the EGR flow and adjusts the IAC. There's no need to have the MAF meter it. it would only be unmetered if the EGR pipe was cut off between the EGR valve and the intake manifold.
I'm guessing that it's a combination of the lower 02 CEL, possibly a bad upper O2, and not resetting the PCM after putting on the header.
BTW, if I had a spare EGR pipe, I'd definitely try the air filter/EGR bypass test.
BP
The DPFE monitors the EGR flow and adjusts the IAC. There's no need to have the MAF meter it. it would only be unmetered if the EGR pipe was cut off between the EGR valve and the intake manifold.
I'm guessing that it's a combination of the lower 02 CEL, possibly a bad upper O2, and not resetting the PCM after putting on the header.
BTW, if I had a spare EGR pipe, I'd definitely try the air filter/EGR bypass test.
BP