I'm wondering about this comment. Can you tell me if the problem, as it existed, was exacerbated by colder temperatures? Would it accelerate OK if you increased in speed gently (keeping the secondaries closed)?
Chris
-
Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.
You can register to join the community.
"Bucking"
- Thread starter Jack_Flash
- Start date
I'm wondering about this comment. Can you tell me if the problem, as it existed, was exacerbated by colder temperatures? Would it accelerate OK if you increased in speed gently (keeping the secondaries closed)?
Chris
TourDeForce
Hard-core CEG'er
if your car exhibits the problems as the fuel level gets low, it is VERY LIKELY a fuel pump problem.
Most other cases the problem has typically been plugs & wires. The D25 in the Contique & Cougar is very sensitive to plugs & wires.
It is rare that the MAF will go bad. A good cleaning won't hurt, but don't go spending money on a MAF until you TEST IT.
Last edited:
It was more of a problem under hard or full throttle (most MAF failures are) -- not really temperature sensitive (FWIW -- my SHO example took place in the summer of '00). Effectively, it will feel to the driver like the car is not able to keep up with your right foot -- the car feels confused.
Once the secondaries opened, the draw of air was increased enough to wake the MAF up a little, so EEC-IV started dumping in a more appropriate amount of fuel, and things got better.
I'll tell you, though -- I still remember the day I replaced it. I pulled out of there with my foot to the floor to make sure it was fixed. It was, and the smooth, mellifluous sound of everything that is SHO filled the air.
car doesnt try to stall but when i give it the boot when under a half a tank it craps out at like 5,000 rpm and if i let off and then try again it'll do it at like 6,000 rpm. shift and put it down and it will continue to bog. its killing me cause cars that shouldn't be next to me are
From that, I think we can deduce that your failure is only occuring when your fuel demands are high and your fuel level is under 1/2 a tank. If you're getting this symptom at no other time, Tour De Force's suggestions bear consideration. I've not had a fuel pump go on a Contour (hope never to), so can't tell you if the failure is progressive or sudden. In Taurus land, one day the pump stopped working, you got a new one, and that was that. Is it an issue of insufficient voltage, simply a tired pump, fuel sending unit (FSU), etc.? Might have to have someone jump under there and have a look-see.
TourDeForce
Hard-core CEG'er
Fuel pump can be done for a LOT less than $600. Shop around and visit with a few CEGers in your area to verify & discuss the problem. They may be willing to take care of it for the price of parts & a pizza.
LOL... good cause i have friends who own pizza shops and if you like to eat pizza i can get lots of it. but i really wanna make sure its the fuel pump. my parents had a taurus and it just died. i thought fuel pumps just die. not like make my car and crap out with less than a half a tank.
Technically, no. You're ideally supposed to use an electronic cleaner that's specifically designed for that sort of thing. That said, the MAF wire is probably a bit more durable than we give it credit for, so you may be able to get away with the TB cleaner. However, unless the thing is really gummed up, you shouldn't need something that harsh.
Welcome ket4au
. As posted by LauraSVT, no, it is not ok. Just use MAF cleaner or electronic cleaner and you should be good to go.Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
FWIW
There is a how to on replacing te fuel pump and the part # for a FSVT pump to use for the replacement. From what I have read this pump is about $100 and does a better job of supplying fuel. There are some things you need to do to make it all work, but it is a lot better than $270 for the CSVT pump. Takes about 30 min to do, or perhaps on the first time about 2hrs. Also there is a difference between the return and returnless types. Returnless start about 5/99 I believe. The issues I have been hearing here about loss of power and under 1/2 tank point directly to the FP issue. The MAF doesn't care how much fuel is in the tank when it acts up. To me that is the easiest way to tell the difference.
I just got this 99 and the fellow said to start looking for a gas station at 1/4 tank. So I have been getting smarter on this issue lately. At some point I plan to make the change, but as the how to's and related posts state you need to watch which parts you actually get and insist on the specific parts listed.
my 2 cents
There is a how to on replacing te fuel pump and the part # for a FSVT pump to use for the replacement. From what I have read this pump is about $100 and does a better job of supplying fuel. There are some things you need to do to make it all work, but it is a lot better than $270 for the CSVT pump. Takes about 30 min to do, or perhaps on the first time about 2hrs. Also there is a difference between the return and returnless types. Returnless start about 5/99 I believe. The issues I have been hearing here about loss of power and under 1/2 tank point directly to the FP issue. The MAF doesn't care how much fuel is in the tank when it acts up. To me that is the easiest way to tell the difference.
I just got this 99 and the fellow said to start looking for a gas station at 1/4 tank. So I have been getting smarter on this issue lately. At some point I plan to make the change, but as the how to's and related posts state you need to watch which parts you actually get and insist on the specific parts listed.
my 2 cents
HighPoweredKaufman
CEG'er
How does one test the MAF? I'm having all of these same problems (although I don't think it's my fuel pump: loss of power no matter how much fuel). I cleaned the MAF and various other parts and the problems all went away. For like 2 weeks. How often does the MAF need to be cleaned?
getsum111
Yes I am a Pirate, 200 years too late.
Maybe once a year, at the most I would guess. Do you have a leak in teh filter before the MAF. Or maybe a loose wire?
HighPoweredKaufman
CEG'er
I don't think I have any filter leaks. I haven't noticed any loose wires either.
WantaSVT
CEG'er
Ok Ive got an 98 SVT and at full go, it hesitates very slightly up around3500-4000 the around 5000-5500 and after that its cool, but those little bumps in power are there only under full throttle, just a little jakeing felling as if its strugglig, befor I read this post I always described it as lumpy power delivery, it kinda shakes a lil, Ill try the MAF and see what happens, ther are so many different shakes and rattles I dont know wether to drive it or give it to a baby
Last edited:
I'd go with cleaning the MAF. If that improves things, then you know you're on to something. MAF failures typically result in noticeable hesitation under full or hard throttle. Theres a good post on cleaning the MAF in the HOW-TO. You may end up having to replace the unit outright ($92.68 plus a $75 core charge from Tousley Ford), but you should be able to pinpoint if the culprit is the MAF after a good cleaning.
WantaSVT
CEG'er
Thanks, Ill go get a can, this crap is starting to add up
WantaSVT
CEG'er
Thanks LauraSVT I cleaned the MAF Sensor today, I just poured so Alchol on it and let it dry, then took it down the road a full throttel a few times in 1st and 2nd, and the lumpy power delivery is gone! thanks so very much