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The start of a long journey to my 3L swap

joelechten said:
Just got home last night with the car and engine and now its time to start the swap. I now have to find time to do it since i have to look for a new job now because last Monday my boss decided to fire me while i was on vacation and just told me this morning. Well off to look for a job.
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I had that happen to me too. It seemed really sucky at the time, but in the long run it was the best thing for me. And later I found out that he had to hire my replacement at 15k a yr more than I was making so It really screwed my boss over. Plus the guy that replaced me only lasted 3 yrs before he was burnt out and left.

Good luck with your job hunting..

P.S. I'm also in the middle of a 3.0 swap
 
joelechten said:
Just got home last night with the car and engine and now its time to start the swap. I now have to find time to do it since i have to look for a new job now because last Monday my boss decided to fire me while i was on vacation and just told me this morning. Well off to look for a job.
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It's amazing how being unemployed really frees up your schedule so you can do a 3L swap. Trust me.;)
 
the funny thing abt the unemployment is that well the president of the company is a pain and the vp is my father in law and he fired me to show every 1 that he can walk all over my father in law. Also what mods should be done with this swap motor mount insert, msds header and clutch let me know what other parts i need to buy.
 
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Tomorrow I'm buying spec stage 2 clutch, motor mount inserts, ford 9mm wires, and the msds headers. Hopefully I'll have the engine out on Sunday so i can start putting together the 3L next week.
 
Hey, how much did you get your MSDS headers for?? someone said $200, but on the website im lookin at $660 :confused: what am i missing??

from the website:

"Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique 2.5L V6
Duratec/Shorty Header Set/Y-Pipe* 95-Later HO810 $660.00"
 
TourDeForce said:
ChattavegasSE tried that, and a couple other EGR tubes from the dealer. None fit. Based on that info & a pair of installs I was witness to, it is my suspicion that inconsistancies in the position of the threaded nipple on the header cause the fitment issues. Cheapest, easiest, quickest way to get it together is the brass compression fitting.
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I'm running Weapon R headers with the 2002 Cougar EGR tube unmodified. I've also installed a few sets with the new EGR tube. All have fit without a problem. Maybe his dealer didn't get him the correct EGR. :shrug:
 
Didnt get him the right EGR several times??

How many different 2.5 EGR tubes can there be?
 
Blackcoog said:
I'm running Weapon R headers with the 2002 Cougar EGR tube unmodified. I've also installed a few sets with the new EGR tube. All have fit without a problem. Maybe his dealer didn't get him the correct EGR. :shrug:
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Possible. Point is still valid though. Pipe cutter for $5 and a fitting for $3 versus how much for a replacement EGR tube?? If you already have access to the little pipe cutter (I have two) you don't have to spend that $5.
 
just got my spec clutch in is the slave cylinder worth anything to anyone seeing that everyone says to use the oem one?
 
im to the point of removing the axles anyone have any hints it took me 6 hours to let the driver ball joint loose and the pasanger one its still being a pain any hints on that at all either.
 
It took you 6 hours to remove the ball joint??? Go to Autozone and get a pickle fork and just give them a wack. Removed both of them in under 5 minutes. Now they did completely destroy the ball joints so I had to replace those but it did remove them quickly.
 
i did i used the pickle fork and a micromoter (mini sledge) and a can of pb blaster

this is the 1st time they are being changed after 180k miles
 
Ah, now I understand. Well my advice is just hit harder and don't worry about not damaging your ball joints, they're most likely going to get f'ed up anyway.
 
Yep pickle fork and then a long forking pry bar to pull down the lower control arm. Shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes.
 
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