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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

Smokeshow said:
What if we shimmed or added a spacer to the wg flange.. 3/8 - 1/2 would that create enough clearance beyond the tubes?
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If I added any shims it would put the downpipe flange way to far away from the turbo to bolt up.

Smokeshow said:
Got ya. Just trying not to ruin the coating. So really the angle of the wg flange is off due to its size and needs to be clocked and angled differently? So really we need to make a small extension/relocation tube and flange?
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Not sure where all this "we" talk is coming from... ;) However it has nothing do to with the wastegate being to large. The kit was designed to work with the Tial F38 style wastegate. The NPG kit comes with a generic knock-off style Tial wastegate from CX Racing.
 
Point taken... trying to help... you can clock the turbo housing right? brainstorming in third person...

stepping away... its your build... continue on. .. i'll stick to watching... ( getting popcorn now )

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I know its not the size, but Crewchief said he made it the fitup of the flanges work and now it hits the subframe. So if you made it fit up right you might as well weld on the v-bands and have plenty of clearance since the MVS is tiny in comparision. I thought this build as all about perfection and no expense or effort spared lol. Forcing the wastegate piping is a great way to get cracked welds.
 
Smokeshow I'm all about brainstorming. Feel free to share your thoughts.

Rotating the housing in this instance wouldn't help as the downpipe exit is centered on the housing.

2000ZxT I didn't force the wastegate. I ended up drilling out the holes and retapping the one. It fit together, but its tight.

The build is about doing everything right, yes. However in this case I feel the piping may still work. Once I finish wrapping my cold piping and assembly everything we shall see.

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Finished up the cold piping work I wanted and they are now ready to be installed.

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Well after a lot of screwing around and 15min tightening one bolt on the downpipe (cut allen key with 1/8-1/4 turn intervals) the turbo is installed. I'm waiting on a new 90° elbow for the turbo inlet (2.75" to 3") and a 2.75" ss t clamp to finish the piping install. However that said here are some pics...

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I've finalized how I want to do the vacuum routing. I'm in the process of building a custom vacuum manifold as well as two oil catch cans for the valve covers.

I'm also waiting on a local supplier to receive some T304 SS 2.5" 16ga tube stock so I can fab up the last bit of piping for the intake. The NPG original piece is too short now with the new routing for the ST220 UIM.

Here are the diagrams I'm referencing. I'll be modifying the one below that I believe Stazi or Joey created back in the day.

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I would not do that and just do 2 well placed exhaust Evacs. Ive had a dual catch can setup its a pain and still doesn't provide almost any vacuum in boost. Put a gauge on the turbo intake youll see it pull like -2 or 3. In boost with evacs youll pull around -6 to -8. My 2 cents after like 10+ turbo setups. Im putting a vacuum pump on the SeVT.
 
Thanks for the insight. I was kind of wondering about the vacuum capabilities of the new setup. I've since purchased a UP28 brake assist vacuum pump, which is used in the Chevy Cruze accompanied with a adjustable vacuum switch. This setup has successfully be used in many EV car builds. I basically will be copying the setup found here. The pump and switch I picked up off of eBay today. Worked out pretty slick as the pump already comes with the OEM bracket, which includes the iso-mounts. I'll see if I can make the bracket work if I'll need to fab a new one up.

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Neat idea, thought about that myself since many of the new vehicles have electric vacuum pumps. I will try to do the same thing since this is much easier to do than a mechanical race pump.

On my race car a vacuum pump was worth almost 30 horsepower at 15". Street cars could probably benefit from up to 8" and make a few horsepower.
 
#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

That IS a neat idea. How does it work? Switch recognizes a low vacuum instance and turns it on?

What check valve are you running in addition to the stocker?
 
Yes, the switch is adjustable and will control the pump. I'll set it to 10-15inhg and the pump will turn on until it hits 15-20inhg.
 
Post some details on the switch, and wiring setup too :) This might be something i will do depending how the car takes to bewst.
 
Well almost finished up the new inlet pipe. Only thing left to do is to weld on a bung for the IAT sensor that I tapped to a 1/2-13 thread. I like this a lot better than the original NPG piece.

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Also since I had an early 98 E0 I had the anti-moosing pipe setup. I used that long dead end pipe, cut the ends off, and then hacked the elbows out of the Samco Sports hose that hooked up to it. This is what I am now running for the IAC line.

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