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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

Finished up the final inlet pipe

used a 1/2"-13 die to thread the IAT sensor and welded a stainless steel nut to the pipe. Turned out pretty dang good if I do say so myself.

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assuming that pipe is post turbo its going to need some kind of seal to be completely leak free. the bass idle set screw on my VR4 is plastic threaded into the metal TB and uses an o-ring to seal it. when the o-ring gets old it leaks like a SOB. I would recommend using an IAT sensor from a 95-97 Zetec as its a metal body that screws into an insert in the intake piping. I might even still have one floating around that I can check the threads on.
 
He put a nut first so the entire sensor doesn't protrude into the airstream. The idea of only one thread sealing concerns me especially with pressurized air. Mine is screwed in like BADSVT but never looked like it was sealing with only one or two threads holding it in. So, now I am going to run down the street where my chassis builder friend will charge me $10 to make the same thing.

Had this car for over 5 years. Now I am getting forged rods and pistons and a bunch of other things just because of this thread. Some great ideas here.
 
I had saw that someone said the Zetec sensor was threaded, but when I looked up pics it showed to be the same as the SVT IAT sensor. So I wasn't sure. In anycase this seals up just fine. I also put some teflon tape around the threads to ensure I wouldn't have any problems. I like this solution because one I already had the sensor, and two there is no question in regards to the resitance working with the ECM maps.

In regards to welding the nut to the tube I actually ground the nut to put a curvature on it to match the tube prior to welding as I did not want to fill that large of a gap.

I also want to comment on the sensor in the air flow. I looked at how much engagement there was on the OEM accordian tube on the SVT and matched the engagement with this installation. It just so happened that the nut was pretty close to what I needed and after putting the curvature on it the engagement was dead on. Just for reference the nut I used was a stainless steel 1/2"-13 nut from ACE hardware.
 
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Looks good. Teflon tape is really for tapered connections though. I would put an O-ring on it.
 
2000ZxT said:
Looks good. Teflon tape is really for tapered connections though. I would put an O-ring on it.
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Your correct sir. However given the threads are plastic there really shouldn't be any issues with this application. Although should that not seal for some reason an o-ring will be what I will turn too.

Well stay tuned people. I have a great design for a catch can coming around the corner. Should have the thing built in a week or so assuming the parts come in a timely manner.
 
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Makes it easier to spot tiny leaks and pin point where they are coming from. The faster the bubbles come out the easier you will see where they are coming from.
 
Well time for some updates. Some good, and others.. eh I made a mistake

First the good. Fabricated a new bracket for the vacuum pump, got the cruise control installed again, started on my oil catch can, almost finished with my accusump install.

Haven't drilled the holes in the cowl, but I was able to reuse the isomounts from the factory 2011 Chevy Cruise. Not too stoked about the GM logo, may have to cut that portion of the label off.

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Found a company on the web selling something called a Gear Pod. Pretty cheap, but it will work perfectly for a catch can. Plus it has a smoked transparent canister so I can see what the oil level is inside of it.

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Got the Accusump placed in the cowl where I want it, trimmed up the -10 line running to it and installed the end fitting. I originally intended on a 90° fitting coming out of the Accusump, but because of the bend radius on the -10 hose I opted for a straight NPT-AN adapter, which resulted in another order since I don't have one on hand.

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Now for the mistake. I over estimated my hood clearance when designing my coil pack bracket. It will work to get the car running... but it clearly will interfere with the hood when it's closed.

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Also just for kicks and giggles I made my own label for the coil pack since the Accel one didn't have one like the factory unit.

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i made a coil bracket that mounts straight off of the valve cover bolts and it works out just fine, didnt need to raise it up at all. i cant tell if you have any hoses or what not under yours to see if it would work the same
 
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