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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

Beans said:
At your current build rate, that should take..... Another 5 years.
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I don't think so. The major reason for the long build has been the need for custom parts, hard to find parts, high dollar purchases, outside services, and not having the appropriate equipment driving more high dollar purchases. The remaining tasks do not require further purchases of parts (except the pyrometer) and I have all the equipment/tools required to complete the build. Only lacking aspects are time and space now.
 
blu_fuz said:
It's either going be finished or end up in my garage at some point ;)
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Ha. Clearly you don't know me. I'm a pack rat. I still have my Camaro waiting to be worked on underneath a car cover on the side of my garage. I'd never let this car go unless someone paid me exactly what I have into it not a penny less, which would never happen. I knew that going into it.

Only car I've ever sold was my 94 SHO, which was a lost cause. I'll probably be parting ways with my 97 Civic though as I'm craving a upscale DD like BMW 335xi.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Ha. Clearly you don't know me. I'm a pack rat. I still have my Camaro waiting to be worked on underneath a car cover on the side of my garage. I'd never let this car go unless someone paid me exactly what I have into it not a penny less, which would never happen. I knew that going into it.

Only car I've ever sold was my 94 SHO, which was a lost cause. I'll probably be parting ways with my 97 Civic though as I'm craving a upscale DD like BMW 335xi.
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That will be a nice upgrade from the Civic! My 325XiT is a tank, terrible on gas though
 
imnotacop420 said:
That will be a nice upgrade from the Civic! My 325XiT is a tank, terrible on gas though
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My X3 was basically the same platform, and I was getting about 24 highway with it. Great DD. Cost of maintenance scared me off after 3 years. :p It was due for the water pump, spark plugs, filters etc. I traded it in for the Pilot.
 
jaged said:
thats something you never ask. its like asking your GF how much she weighs
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not really, I'm still under bluebook for the cougar, not counting the cost of the contour shell that contributed most of the mods, but still counting the cost of the mods. it's a good thing to keep a project in perspective...

CSVT#49 said:
more than I paid for the car ($600) and less than the cars original MSRP ($22,365), which was my goal.
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that actually really reasonable, so you have some room before the thing becomes completely upside down performance for money wise. had you got the viper, you could have only dumped around $5.3k into it in mods. it would probably be a lot faster, but wouldn't be as formidable in class as the 'tour is going to be...

I keep things in perspective. for instance, a cougar has to be faster than a tour, because people generally perceive them as being v6 sports cars as opposed to 4cylinder family beaters. you get into a big league car like a viper or a gtr and you had better bring some ridiculous numbers with it because people have pretty high expectations from those cars in raw form...

thats a compliment btw. don't want it to come off the wrong way. my point is this thing will be the biggest sleeper known if it can get the power on the pavement without going up in smoke...

I honestly though you had more in it by now...
 
I'm not counting tools and equipment that I have bought along the way to be able to make the parts I needed either. Otherwise you would be right.

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Mike

Question for you. Being that you are using the ST220 LIM and UIM. you need to use the escape/mazda 6 Fuel rail. Have you modified the rail in any way? If so what did you do in order for it to work on the return fuel system. Im about to install my RHD engine and I dont want to run into a snag when I drop the motor in. Pics would be greatly appreciated.
 
I'm actually running the ST220 UIM with the Escape LIM. I cut the end of the fuel rail off to shorten it to clear the mount. I brazed the end cap back on and all was good. The input on the rail was run to an Aeromotive fpr (PN 13309), which has a return port. So the return line was routed to that.

I have a separate thread on cutting/brazing the fuel rail with a bunch of pics. I'll have to find it.

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you should mass produce that fuel rail set up with the fpr. would be a lot cleaner and more functional than the npg kit...

I've always said an adjustable fpr would make tuning so much easier. a small bump in fuel pressure would allow for better atomization and let you tune the pcm for shorter bursts which would result in a better power to mpg ratio in even a na car...
 
I'm just waiting for you to finish your build, then go my bank and withdraw a large amount of $$$, put it in a stainless steel briefcase, then head to MN. Everything is for sale ... for the right price. ;)
 
Quicksilver said:
I'm just waiting for you to finish your build, then go my bank and withdraw a large amount of $$$, put it in a stainless steel briefcase, then head to MN. Everything is for sale ... for the right price. ;)
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Haha. Yea, this is true. I'd probably want to enjoy it for sometime. However I have always wanted to start a 67 Mustang project with modern day powertrain and interior. Would be a good start.
 
Mike would you be interested un brazing my rail. I would pay of course. Just wondering how its going towork with only one line and no return. Advice appreciated
 
svttour said:
Mike would you be interested un brazing my rail. I would pay of course. Just wondering how its going towork with only one line and no return. Advice appreciated
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I made it work by using the Aeromotive 13101 FPR. The FPR has the return on it. Follow the link below and see figure 1-1, that is how you would run your fuel lines. If the rail you have will install with the Contour engine mount, you are good to go without the need for brazing.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/13101-09-14.pdf

Now all that said the ideal installation you would be following figure 1-3. Although to do that you would need to create an additional port on the other end of the fuel rail. The reason why I say ideal is that by returning the fuel to tank ahead of the fuel rail you allow the fuel to sit in the rail and heat up as opposed to allowing it to flow through. That said many people have made installations as I mentioned above and have not had any issues.
 
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