SVT-R-US
CEG'er
Nice!
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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin
- Thread starter CSVT#49
- Start date
Nice!
MISTILLPHIX
CEG'er
Whoa!!!
that's a nice fudgen color!!!
that's a nice fudgen color!!!
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
Delivery for #49...
So this is what $1k worth of painting material looks like...
So this is what $1k worth of painting material looks like...
Pole120
Addicted CEG'er
Jesus....
wantsansvt
Veteran CEG'er
wow....#49 will be looking good tho
Mr_Buddha
CEG'er
That thing is going to look sweet in the daylight!
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
If I would have stayed red it would have been worse... PPG T-red paint is $653 for a gallon. HoK Trublue was $288. Then I still would have needed primer/sealer, catalyst, reducer, and clear coat. So yea I'm thinking I'm sitting pretty good.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
Well did some work today to try and get the car to a point where I can start sanding it down and prepping it for the primer/sealer.
-A/C completely removed
-power distribution block harness removed
-PCM removed
-brake booster and master cylinder removed
-cabin filter housing removed
-wiper motor and arm assembly removed
-windshield washer bottle and lines removed
-dash removed
Some pics of the engine bay (BB shots at night so they are not the greatest). Need to vacuum it out and wash it down. Also still need to disconnect the power steering lines and reservoir. I don't think I'm going to mess with disconnecting the brake lines and ABS control unit. I'll end up just masking them off when I paint. I also don't think I've going to remove the lower section of insulation. I'll most likely fold it back to paint what I can behind it. As to remove it I would have to disconnect brake lines and fuel lines, which I really don't want to do.
-A/C completely removed
-power distribution block harness removed
-PCM removed
-brake booster and master cylinder removed
-cabin filter housing removed
-wiper motor and arm assembly removed
-windshield washer bottle and lines removed
-dash removed
Some pics of the engine bay (BB shots at night so they are not the greatest). Need to vacuum it out and wash it down. Also still need to disconnect the power steering lines and reservoir. I don't think I'm going to mess with disconnecting the brake lines and ABS control unit. I'll end up just masking them off when I paint. I also don't think I've going to remove the lower section of insulation. I'll most likely fold it back to paint what I can behind it. As to remove it I would have to disconnect brake lines and fuel lines, which I really don't want to do.
bensenvill
Hard-core CEG'er
wow, personally I would never switch paint colors just because of the engine bay. are you going to go show-ey and smooth out the engine bay before painting?
now you've talked quite a bit on the power bit of the equation, but I don't recall anything about the trans? anything special your doing in that department?
now you've talked quite a bit on the power bit of the equation, but I don't recall anything about the trans? anything special your doing in that department?
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
Cleaning out the engine bay isn't too bad. I needed to do it anyway so that I can reroute the harness to wire tuck it. My engine bay will look very clean when everything is said and done.
As for the trans I've completed all of the standard upgrades. Forks, diff, shift tower, clutch. I've sent requests to TH to see what he thought/recommended, but he's never responded back. Bottom-line short of installing a new gear set from Quaife (~$2800) there really isn't anything more I could do that I know of. I will be rebuilding it before I put it back in though.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
talk to that rob guy, he's got an all out HMS trans paired with that kinetic race engine of his. do you have a final drive swap yet?
FDR is a good point mike, I have the 3.5 fdr in my 02 trans and it really made a difference. In my stock dd coug I find myself only using 1st gear to get the car up to like 5mph from a dead stop and then its 2nd to 4th. With the HMS trans in the modified car I get in and almost forget how to drive it, 1st gear is actually worth something and I actually use 3rd a lot more, casual driving I still barely skip 3rd but even when rolling about 5-10mph I need to go into 1st instead of 2nd. I still break traction in 1st gear but instead of it letting loose in low rpms I start to feel it break loose around 5500-6000rpm, I also have crappy tires right now.
If I was in your boots I would be shipping an MK1 mondeo with awd from across the pond, and talking with HMS to build those parts up to handle your crazy HP. I mean you have already come this far, why not go all the way!!
If I was in your boots I would be shipping an MK1 mondeo with awd from across the pond, and talking with HMS to build those parts up to handle your crazy HP. I mean you have already come this far, why not go all the way!!
elraido
I kant speel
Talk to LivinSVT about the transmission. He did the one in my old car...he even put the other FDR in it. Honestly, I would suggest getting the final drive done on it. It will help out (marginally though on your build) on your final rpms and amount of wheel spin. LivinSVT's car is a turbo 3.0L, I think....so he should know what should be needed. He also built the one in my car to handle the turbo that pud was going to install.
RFcsvt
Veteran CEG'er
I totally agree with these guys and the FD swap. I have a 3.56 Focus FD, it's well worth it.
morbid
Hard-core CEG'er
heheh not to sound like a band wagon, but I'd agree with changing out the FDR too. With my old motor, I'd sometimes get traction in 3rd gear... and that was 17psi on a 2.5L. You'll have the power to probably spin 4th at full boost. And even with the variable boost controller, you won't have traction at WOT in 2nd with the stock FDR.
Oh and where do all of these parts go with such a small work space...
my basements unfinished spare bedroom :crazy: hopefully the wife doesn't step in there anytime soon (I packed it full when it was 1:30am and she was sleeping :laugh. It's kinda turning in to my spare parts/office area. Anyone want to buy a full sized L shaped office desk with a marble counter top?
Oh and look what came in the mail a few days ago...
needs some TLC, but I have some plans for it anyway.
seems like this cover might fit my 3L AJ Mazda MPV motor .... hmmm im really feeling this cover since i didn't get a factory cover on my AJ motor ..
Something is missing...
We got the motor out in about 35min. No issues what so ever, which was unbelievable.
well doing it on my own 4 hours a day .. it's gonna take me another day before it's out .. thats hella fast .. good job .. how did you go about when you took the axle's out thats where im at now .. i was stumped on this last time i did a motor swap on a tour.. any info would be helpful .. pm or on forum .. thanks
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
Alright wow lot of talk about the FDR :laugh:
It's probably in the plans to do this. I've also talked with LivinSVT already. He was my source for getting the oil squirter issues figured out. If I don't do the transmission myself I will be having him do mine.
It's probably in the plans to do this. I've also talked with LivinSVT already. He was my source for getting the oil squirter issues figured out. If I don't do the transmission myself I will be having him do mine.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
I used the correct tool
CV Shaft Puller. You can rent the puller tool and slide hammer at any Autozone.