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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

It cures or helps with the dash & lights dimming when your alternator is still good. Not sure if it works because I don't know anyone that has it done. It must do something :shrug:.
 
elraido said:
what is the point of that mod?
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cougar had the problem more then contours but sometime the lights would dim at idle. this was associated with high resistance or something in the sensing circuit for the voltage regulator. That circuit runs from the voltage regulator to the fog lamp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. so what you are doing is letting the voltage regulator sense the voltage at the output of the alternator instead of the fuse box. do note the late model cougars had this circuit built into the alternator. so the wiring mod odes the same thing for the older alternators.
 
This is a great thread. I have learned quite a bit from it. I am thinking about doing a 3l swap this summer. I have about 145000 miles on my 2.5l right now and i want to eventually have something to keep up with my buddys SRT-4. I fugured the 3l swap would be a good place to start.
 
I am glad people can use this thread. I have been meaning to move all the relevant info to the first 4 posts in the thread so people don't have to search through so much info. Just havn't had the time to break it down yet. Thanks for reading, pm me if you have questions. - JOE
 
svtkev said:
i would suggest removing the heads for the porting , since you already have to change the mount , the cost of a couple head gaskets and head bolts is worth the piece of mind of knowing there is no metal shavings in the engine, much easier to port the heads on a bench anyway

p.s. dont forget the exhaust ports
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Uhmm I know this thread is old but I was reading it for info and seriously? :shrug:

Your valves are still in there the only way to truly port correctly is to tear the head down 100% and have it hottanked before reassembly. Taking the heads off you leave you with the same situation as before but you need new parts and a lot of work.
 
I had purchased another alt hoping to change it out today. I removed the old alt and took both to the autozone and BOTH checked out ok :shrug:. I figured put the new one in anyway. While bolting it in after grinding down the flanges a little to get it to fit in the bracket easier I noticed the megafuse was fried :confused:.

I looked at the fuse when removing the old alt and it "looked" ok but apparently not......

anyway, long story short - my power wire was fried and grounded/shorted out on the :censored::censored::censored:ing EGR tube. :nonono:.

I have to leave the new alt in the car now because I ground on the flanges a little and a need a megafuse.

check classifieds for cheap OEM 10k mile alternator for sale.


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blu_fuz said:
While bolting it in after grinding down the flanges a little to get it to fit in the bracket easier I noticed the megafuse was fried :confused:.
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why would you grind down the flange? you do realize the sleeves in the bracket slide and you need to push them back out, thats how they work, as you tighten the bolts it presses them against the ear on the alternator.
 
I didn't know that. I have never changed an alternator on these cars, I just installed one on my 3L when it was all pulled apart..... sorry

I'm sensitive about it because I should have seen the fuse all :censored::censored::censored::censored:ed up before changing out the alternator. My "sleeve" that you speak of is not loose and never was and when you are laying on your back holding up a alternator trying to get it in, the last thing I need is for it to be too tight..... I have better things to spend my money on than another alternator that didn't need to be changed. When the EGR melted through the valve cover breather tube, I moved everything else that was touching the egr tube so I didn't run into more trouble. This car pisses me off because I drive it for very little and then something else goes wrong again.
 
I can't say this without sounding like a jerk, but I'll say it anyways. Welcome to modifying a car. It takes a lot of time and effort to modify a vehicle as heavily as many of us have, and get everything perfect. The more you modify it, the more you're going to not put everything back together perfectly. The best thing a person can do to avoid problems like this is to just take your time assembling. And you're still going to miss something. It happens to everyone. Just hope it's nothing big (like a pulse wheel or cam timing).
 
TennTechMan said:
The best thing a person can do to avoid problems like this is to just take your time assembling. And you're still going to miss something. It happens to everyone. Just hope it's nothing big (like a pulse wheel or cam timing).
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Thanks for that. I did take a lot of time putting everything together and making sure everything was ok, but like you said, you will still miss something.

Bringing up the pulse wheel and cam timing did set me at ease, thank you. I'm glad I didn't have those kinds of problems. As long as my original alternator sells, I won't feel too bad. The rest of the stuff that was melted is easily replaced.

Should be good to go soon.

I wanted to raise my coilovers too and all the bolts are siezed and the heads are stripped :blackeye:. Just another punch in the wiener from good 'ol EGPLNT.

After all that I decided to fix how my exhaust was hanging and finally got to work on something that was quick and looked great after doing it. ;)

Thanks for the support guys. - JOE
 
Because it was there :shrug:.


Who thinks I should remove it? What about the 2 tubes coming off it that goes to the DPFE sensor? Do I get rid of the DPFE sensor too?
 
blu_fuz said:
Because it was there :shrug:.


Who thinks I should remove it? What about the 2 tubes coming off it that goes to the DPFE sensor? Do I get rid of the DPFE sensor too?
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Ask Pud, he knows for sure. I know my CEL is on, one reason the DPFE sensor and the EGR....no problems at all drivability wise and those are going to get tuned out. Not only that but my intake is CLEAN. I know one reason why he got rid of it was because he didn't want it melting wires.
 
blu_fuz said:
This car pisses me off because I drive it for very little and then something else goes wrong again.
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How do you think I feel? The first year I owned Frosty the clutch went. Then a little over a month after I get it back from Josh, the misfire comes due to the toasted piston rings in the jy motor that Tony put in it. I put the 3L in and within 24 hours the diff is blown out. I am at the point where if one more thing goes wrong with this car, I'm done with it and moving on to either another CSVT or a newer Cobra Mustang. I guess my advice would be to just be patient and just do a double check before you put everything back together and take it on the road. At least EGPLNT didn't burn to the ground!
 
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