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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

stock filter has a M22-1.5 thread

a FL1A or FL300 is 3/4-16" thread

the adaptor should use 1/2" npt fittings.

I used -10AN line for mine. 90 swivle seal fittings at the remote filter and 45 degree fittings at the block. all earls products.

check out anplumbing.com for instructional videos on how to assemble the lines.
 
so theres not a pre-setup kit any more? or is it just cost prohibitive? I happen to have a gigantic oil cooler in the shed, it's for a gm, but the cooler itself should work if i had a remote.
 
Livinsvt said:
I have a mix of a couple brands. Perma cool comes to mind. Just look for a Ford Spin-on adaptor, I beleive it 3/4-10 thread, than any filter mount you want. Preferable one that fits Fords larger filter (Fl1a). Dont even bother with rubber hose and brass parker fittings, they wont last too long, or they weap. Get good fittings and hose (Earls, Aeroquip etc..$$$), youll need four 1/2" npt to -10an fittings, than two straight -10 hose ends, and two 90 degree -10 hose ends. You can also use 45's. Fittings will cost a lot. Push on hose is way easier to work with, or you can go with braided hose. Cheaper fittings, but the hose cost more. Just use a good brand and you will be fine. Also a good time to plumb in a air/air oil cooler if wanted with thermostat. Get pipe tape or puddy for the NPT side of the thread only and use some lube when assembling the hose ends. You will need some good hose cutters to cut the push on hose, or a cut off wheel and tape for the braided hose ends so they doen fray. It will cost some money, but it will last and not leak if done right.
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Is this what you and pud were telling me about when I picked up his car? :laugh: There was so much to learn about it, that I forgot some stuff. LOL
 
Haha, I could tell we might have been going over your head a bit. Just trying to explain everything so you know for the future. Of course you can always ask questions later :cool:.

3/4-16 sounds right, its been a while.
 
KAOS_2.5M said:
so theres not a pre-setup kit any more? or is it just cost prohibitive? I happen to have a gigantic oil cooler in the shed, it's for a gm, but the cooler itself should work if i had a remote.
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yes but they come with rubber hose, fittings and clamps. this will only last so long and has the potential to leak .... just like his current setup leaked and he hated it.

the steel braided line will last much longer, looks better and is much less likely to leak .... but its alot more to put together.

there are threads on this too ....

here is one thread
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=28590&highlight=oil+filter
 
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Livinsvt said:
Haha, I could tell we might have been going over your head a bit. Just trying to explain everything so you know for the future. Of course you can always ask questions later :cool:.

3/4-16 sounds right, its been a while.
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I knew of what adapter you were talking about, it was when you guys were trying to figure out how to pipe it from there that you lost me. I am more of a visual learner....if I can see something in front of me, I understand it almost right away. That is why when he mentioned where and how to mount the cooler, I understood that easily.
 
ahh....

I'll have to dig out that oil cooler and look at the parts, I believe it has most of the stuff needed, so I'm fairly sure with the engine adapter part and a few fittings I could have it in and good.

I was initially thinking of using it as a cooler for the trans, but that would require a pump. I'd also have to drop a line to fill or drain the trans as those are the only suitable openings unless I put some kind of T in a line for filling and another for draining. who knows.
 
Just rolled 1,200 miles since the build and everything is now tight and spot on.
I just wanted to note that back when I did this:
3Lbuild090.jpg


I was told to switch the way I showed them soldered together but decided to leave it just to see if it would work properly anyway. It is ok for the OBDI computer for the wiring to be like shown above I don't know if it is ok for the OBDII cars though.
 
I really havn't had any long hauls with the new 3L yet until this weekend. Drove it down to Ill. for a mini meet. Was almost 400 miles round trip. The drive down took almost 5 hours of non-stop driving because of traffic around chicago :blackeye:.

It only moosed once, no CELs, no stuttering, had power all the time, and I did notice that the motor has such high tq now that I could coast in second gear without the car dying and surging. The original motor would have surged and died.

It makes me wonder if I should upgrade to the SVT lim and 19# injectors from my SE lim and 17# injectors.
I don't want to get the tune without having done the upgrades yet, if I don't have to.....

BrApple said:
you can run the car but it will run even richer then it is now with 19# injectors. You will trip a cel from being to rich fairly quickly. and you don't want to do this for a long time.

I say the best plan is to run your break in and then swap everything over. go to the dyno and get some numbers with a/f and send it off to NPG so you can get your chip to get everything in order.
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Hey man, nice to see another 95 out on the road..

heres my 95 after i got the 3L stuffed in... put 9k miles on this setup..

myride2.jpg


myride6.jpg


:censored::censored::censored::censored:s cleaner under there now haha...

myride.jpg
 
That's awesome.
Did you keep the traction control too? I can still see it in there :confused:.

Did you have to bypass the radiator or something with that big tube across the engine bay, or what is that?
 
Yes I kept the traction control. And My motor is pre camshaft ran waterpump.. I forget what year they started those on the 3.0s off hand, Ive been out of this game for awhile...
But I got an electric water-pump that are ran on the Boss Hoss Chevy SBC and BB motorcycles on it.
 
Jared where have you been hiding this car:shrug: something seems different under you hood:laugh: but other wise very familiar :cool: BTW blu_fuz NICE work your car is:drool:
 
My alternator just :censored::censored::censored::censored: the bed. Less than 10k miles on it total:nonono:. It is only putting about 10v out. I have been looking for the alternator wiring mod so I can do that while changing this alt. out but all the links are dead since the site went down..... Kinda pissed that I have to change it, but good thing I used new bolts and antisieze on the threads for the alt :D. Should be easy.
 
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