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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

*5-20-13
Car = 240,023 Miles
Motor = 46,943 Miles
Trans w/torsen = 27,792 Miles
Clutchnet w/ LUK TOB/PP = 1,400 Miles*


Besides some odd grounding problem with my gauge cluster, everything is running OK. The clutch feels weird sometimes as I said in this post: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showt...tour-SE-3L-build-thread&p=1012244#post1012244. But it still works. I will bleed the clutch with my pneumatic bleeder system and see if that helps.


No leaks or other issues I can think of.
 
Can you define weird? I a Clutchnet now too and sometimes it's stiffer than others and it clicks when the pedal isn't pushed in.
 
Still untuned but have everything to swap and a tuned SCT OBD1 flip chip.


I described the clutch issue already and linked to it.
 
Wow this post is nuts. I just want to start by saying you did one heck of a nice job with your build. I just spent the last hour and a half reading every single post and got so much information, at the same time it is kind of intimidating.

I have a cougar with some light SVT mods and have been thinking about doing a 3L swap sometime, just the idea of gaining 40ish hp/tq makes me want to drool :D But I also cant leave myself stranded all too long. Do you think it would be possible to 'first time' this swap in say...a month?
 
BAD SVT said:
Most certainly. Confidence is key. If u've got any questions as u go, just ask.
Click to expand...

^ exactly what he said. A month is a good solid DIY pace if you havn't done this before. There are a couple major things that you have to get right the first time or you will be pulling the motor and trans out again. Pulse wheel, proper clutch and slave cylinder/throw out bearing, differential, etc.... It is very intimidating, but when I started my car was as good as dead. Either I fixed it or it was going to sit because I wasn't going to pay someone to do it.
 
blu_fuz said:
but when I started my car was as good as dead. Either I fixed it or it was going to sit because I wasn't going to pay someone to do it.
Click to expand...

yea it's just that my cougar is running strong and my dad is very adamant against me doing performance upgrades while in school. on the other hand im quite the advocate of speed and this seems like a fairly straightforward and, dare I say "cheap" alternative to more svt equipment. I mentioned an engine in Janesville I could pick up to avoid shipping costs for 200 and he flipped his s---. needless to say I will be hard-pressed to do the swap while at home, haha.
 
Radue22 said:
yea it's just that my cougar is running strong and my dad is very adamant against me doing performance upgrades while in school. on the other hand im quite the advocate of speed and this seems like a fairly straightforward and, dare I say "cheap" alternative to more svt equipment. I mentioned an engine in Janesville I could pick up to avoid shipping costs for 200 and he flipped his s---. needless to say I will be hard-pressed to do the swap while at home, haha.
Click to expand...

Leave the engine alone. Upgrade your suspension. The car's not fast, and it's never going to be as fast as you want it to be. But it already has great grip and balance, and you can easily make it have ASTONISHING grip and balance. I've owned and raced my Cougar for 11 years now, and it's still running on its original 2.5L, which is now at 192,000 miles. No three for me until this thing is DEAD.
 
I agree, if it isn't dead and your parents have the final say, leave it alone. If your engine takes a crap on you, then worry about upgrading the engine.
 
Radue22 said:
yea it's just that my cougar is running strong and my dad is very adamant against me doing performance upgrades while in school.
Click to expand...

I completely agree as my parents where the same way. And it left me a very reliable DD that i didn't have to worry about. I would not do a 3L swap unless you have an engine problem. Also "cheap" is a relative term. Some have done it cheap, and they have had issues. My 3l engine swap ran ~$1k iirc. All new seals, new oil pan, fluids, plugs, etc.
 
3L motor

3L motor

Radue22 said:
I mentioned an engine in Janesville I could pick up to avoid shipping costs for 200 and he flipped his s---. needless to say I will be hard-pressed to do the swap while at home, haha.
Click to expand...

you could do what I did.....

I bought a 3L engine and put it to one side.

I am now cleaning and preparing the motor at my leisure and I will have a ready motor the day my 2.5L craps out.

DesertDawg said:
I'm curious are these motors overly susceptible to rod bearing failure?
Click to expand...

The rod bearings do fail ... sometimes it is caused by the con rod big end becoming oval and allowing the bearing to spin. It can also be caused by the bearing having high usage.

As Pole120 says, you could check the con rod and if necessary, replace the bearings before installing ...G.
 
that is why I'm reading every last page in the 3L Swap forum I'm gonna have to pull the 2.5 out with the spun rod bearing
and do SOMETHING
but I'd much rather replace the rod, crank & bearing set but folks tell me that's a fools errand?
That is why Pole's insinuation that before you slapped a 3L in you'd be best advised to throw some properly sized Clevites at the bottom end halp
 
gorman said:
It can also be caused by the bearing having high usage
Click to expand...
My purchased new 98 SVT only has 107K
I was blaming myself to not once firing it up while it sat from 2001 to March of 2012 Wifey drove it up to 107 from 88K lemme rephrase this:
the 2.5 spins them things far more than it should, is the 3L less susceptible or should we all keep a spare engine in the trunk?
 
DesertDawg said:
the 2.5 spins them things far more than it should, is the 3L less susceptible or should we all keep a spare engine in the trunk?
Click to expand...
3L's use the same con rods as 2.5's. Cold starts, short runs, irregular oil changes etc all shorten the bearing life. I'm guessing 3.0L engines have fewer bottom end failures because you don't have to rev them so high to get your desired speed out of them.

i'm just saying that at 100k miles you could change the bearings and bolts and avoid a bottom end failure for a lot less than a rebuild.

DesertDawg said:
but I'd much rather replace the rod, crank & bearing set but folks tell me that's a fools errand?
Click to expand...

If the con rod big end is still perfectly round, the crankshaft undamaged and metal didn't find its way all around the motor you may have a reason for trying.
On the other hand, if you kept driving until it beat itself into submission, then they may have a point since those with the ability can install a 3L for the same cost as a 2.5L....G.
 
I found out why 2.5's spin the rod bearings from Terry's article
now why does it seem that everyone swaps to a 3L Taurus
instead of repairing their 2.5's or do they never mention it?
 
After a hard day at VIR track day during spring zing I lost 5th and reverse in the transmission. Not only that but the rubber u-joint bushings of the shifter assembly failed at the same time so I had no 1st and 2nd gear too. Only 3rd and 4th would work. :eek:

IMG_0199_zps1abbeb52.jpg



Managed to find a 50k mile trans for only $200 that had been sitting in a warehouse pulled from a 1997 V6 MTX back in 1998! They had it for 16 years on the shelf!

Also found a southern 1995 MTX shifter assembly for $40 with a lot of miles on it but in much better working/physical condition as mine.

IMG_0196_zps913af044.jpg



Trans had this tag on it from the factory:

IMG_0195_zps0855c21a.jpg



IMG_0197_zps024ce3f8.jpg



The trans shifts buttery smooth, it's amazing. Feels like a brand new car. The shifter assembly actually has a nice notched feel when it is slid into the different gears. My original shifter never felt this good.


Also put a NOS SVT Ford OEM clutch kit in the car and resurfaced the SVT flywheel. The pedal feel of an oem clutch is hard to beat, that's why I didn't re-use the clutchnet setup.


Here are the newest numbers:

*8-29-14
Car = 244,295 Miles
Motor = 51,215 Miles
Stock Trans = 51,138Miles
FORD SVT OEM clutch kit = 1,382 Miles*


^ I just realized that the 3L motor and '97 trans have almost the exact same miles :cool:.


Pic from on my drive home:

IMG_0246_zps3f061cd7.jpg
 
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