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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

After about 5 years of searching I FINALLY found another set of Accel 8mm 300+Thundersport yellow spark plug wires. My current set that I just took off had almost 140,000 miles on them since I bought them new in 2002! I like the 9mm Ford Motorsport wires, but they are bulky and red so they will probably come off at some point after I see if the misfire is fixed :cool:.

So excited.
 
blu_fuz said:
After about 5 years of searching I FINALLY found another set of Accel 8mm 300+Thundersport yellow spark plug wires. My current set that I just took off had almost 140,000 miles on them since I bought them new in 2002! I like the 9mm Ford Motorsport wires, but they are bulky and red so they will probably come off at some point after I see if the misfire is fixed :cool:.

So excited.
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I guess all n all, i've been pretty fortunate with my svt then. I've been running FoMo plug wires since 2007 & had no issue with them. In fact i recently picked up the last new set in the country. Just in case...:). I guess the gods are smiling down on me after having to replace my first 3L after only 10k miles... And hopefully this new set fixes ur misfire.
 
I would have no problem going with another OEM set of wires either just because we know they last so long. I've proven that you can get 140k miles problem free from Accel wires too :cool:. I'm not even sure the wires are the issue, I suspect it's the coil pack, but I did break a couple spark plug wire clips off when pulling my motor this last time because I forgot to take the coil pack off :blackeye: so I figured now's the time to change them.
 
Swapped coil pack and put some Ford Motorsport wires on, everything is great! Went through the carwash today and no misfire, woohoo!


Actually, since I swapped the fuel filter and fixed my leaky fuel rail, there is no low RPM stumble or stumble at startup :cool:. It's running really good.


With the new shocks, springs, balljoints, and wheel bearings, I'm taking the car in to install 2 new front tires and alignment.



Something about the car today made me smile. I went to the gas station to fill up with the needle just hovering over "E". $34.xx to fill it up makes me happy to continue driving this conturd and I let my winter vehicle sit for the real days we get snow/salt on the roads.
 
blu_fuz said:
Swapped coil pack and put some Ford Motorsport wires on, everything is great! Went through the carwash today and no misfire, woohoo!


Actually, since I swapped the fuel filter and fixed my leaky fuel rail, there is no low RPM stumble or stumble at startup :cool:. It's running really good.


With the new shocks, springs, balljoints, and wheel bearings, I'm taking the car in to install 2 new front tires and alignment.



Something about the car today made me smile. I went to the gas station to fill up with the needle just hovering over "E". $34.xx to fill it up makes me happy to continue driving this conturd and I let my winter vehicle sit for the real days we get snow/salt on the roads.
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$34 to fill up?? How much is fuel over on ur end? Buck fifty? lol. On the positive, glad to hear u fixed the misfire.
 
Gas is $3.15 pr gal. It was a little over 11 gallons. Guess there was a little more to run out before I filled it :D. Would have been about $42 to fill from the bottom of E.
 
It's been stupid cold here the last couple days. I went to start up the car and the clutch pedal made a little pop and the pedal went to the floor. Looked under the car and there is a little puddle of clutch/brake fluid on the ground. Pushed the car in my works shop to sit for the night.

I took a quick glance under the hood and I could see the clutch line popped off the TOB nipple on to of the trans :confused:. I'll take care of it tomorrow and bleed the system, but why would the clutch line clip pop off the TOB like that......? Stranded again and -10* with the windchill, awesome.
 
blu_fuz said:
It's been stupid cold here the last couple days. I went to start up the car and the clutch pedal made a little pop and the pedal went to the floor. Looked under the car and there is a little puddle of clutch/brake fluid on the ground. Pushed the car in my works shop to sit for the night.

I took a quick glance under the hood and I could see the clutch line popped off the TOB nipple on to of the trans :confused:. I'll take care of it tomorrow and bleed the system, but why would the clutch line clip pop off the TOB like that......? Stranded again and -10* with the windchill, awesome.
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Yeah, thats very odd. Physically impossible i would imagine. Was the clip on there?
 
Yeah I remember putting the clip in. I don't think I could have bled the clutch without it. I have a spare clutch line somewhere and more of those clips. Hopefully the clip just broke so I can replace it and forget about it. Very strange :confused:.
 
Looked it over this morning..... luckily nothing is broken or missing. The clutch line was hanging there with the cir-clip still in it, but I saw I made a mistake when I put it together in the first place :blackeye::crazy::rolleyes:.


Somehow I managed to put the cir-clip in from the SIDE instead of in from the TOP :confused:. The line should have popped off when I bled the system initially, but somehow held on until yesterday.

The red arrow is where the clip should be inserted, the blue arrow is where I clipped it:
CLUTCHBLEED.jpg



All I have to do is push the clutch line back onto the TOB nipple and put the clip in from the top like I should have when I did the clutch swap. My bad :laugh:. The problem right now is that I can't push the clutch line on far enough to the nipple to get the clip in :nonono:. Maybe something is stuck in there, it's seriously only 1/164" from being all the way in.


This isn't the first time I've had issues with this connection, LOL.

blu_fuz said:
I got the damn thing out. Crazy! I think this was the most troublesum part on the entire build. Took the most time in the beginning, so I cut it and then another 3 hrs to finally get it apart....
3Lbuild105.jpg

3Lbuild106.jpg

3Lbuild107.jpg
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Even a simple cir-clip fix can't be done in 2 minutes on this car :nonono:.


I brought 4 clips with me besides the one that was on the car. Even after an hour and a half of ••••ing around with getting the clip all the way into the slot, and pushed down far enough so that it went around the TOB nipple, none of them would go in!!!! :mad: WTF?!

They go maybe 1/2 way in the slot and I can't push them in with my fingers, or grabbing onto them with a pliars and pushing down, or even using a channel lock going over the clip and under the clutch line to clamp it in there. I bent some in different viariations/ways to get the clip all the way in, still nothing. Hands are raw, back is sore from bending over into the engine bay for so long on my lunch hour (+30 minutes), I gave up.

I took a piece of welding wire that was just a hair thinner than the OEM clip and fenaggled that into position and bled the system. It's working for now, but I will swap the clutch hydraulic hose from the firewall to the TOB someday :rolleyes:.
 
Your friend Beans has a new one of those clutch lines collecting dust. I've always had trouble with mine too, always been a bugger to get on and off for some reason.
 
Thanks Beaner - I brought my spare clutch line with me, which would have been easier to swap in that just trying to get this clip to go in :nonono:. I'll save that repair for a different day, I'm fed up with my car right now and it doesn't deserve another minute of my time :laugh:.
 
Not sure what the miles are on my clutch now, but it feels like I am going to have a slave cylinder failure or something soon :nonono:.


Waiting at a stop light to turn left.
Light turns green and I let the clutch out to start rolling forward.
Car doesn't move but makes a low pitch sqeel from the clutch, almost the sound of a slipping belt would make. (has done this 3 times the last few weeks)
Quickly pushed the clutch pedal back down and let it out again to see if it would grab.
The clutch grabbed and I starting moving again.
The clutch pedal/slave feels like it is sticking sometimes when I let the pedal about 1/2 way out it "jumps" and feels stuck then comes all the way up like it should.


Again, I am running a NEW LUK slave, NEW Clutchnet disc, 25k mile LUK pressure plate, and resurfaced SVT flywheel.



Now what? I can't drive the car anywhere not knowing if it will leave me stranded. I can't bring my daughter with me anywhere because if I am stranded with her then I'm sure the next move is to SELL this car :eek:...... I will probably pay to have the clutch swapped at PRT instead of doing it myself again, I just can't muster up the ambition to do it all over.
 
blu_fuz said:
Again, I am running a NEW LUK slave, NEW Clutchnet disc, 25k mile LUK pressure plate, and resurfaced SVT flywheel.
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I never will install another resurfaced SVT flywheel. I don't think anyone can do it right. New flywheel or bust for me. I had the same thing happen with my brand new SPEC clutch. After I put a new flywheel in with another new SPEC clutch never had any problems.
 
CSVT#49 said:
I never will install another resurfaced SVT flywheel. I don't think anyone can do it right. New flywheel or bust for me. I had the same thing happen with my brand new SPEC clutch. After I put a new flywheel in with another new SPEC clutch never had any problems.
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Sorry to hear that. However, my experience was different. I resurfaced my svt flywheel to match the new SPEC 3+ clutch. Not a single issue... yet.
 
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