DIY poly fill roll restrictor

[Pole120]

I am not gonna read through all eight pages but this is a stupid way to attempt to make a poly mount.

In the time it took you to type your instructions you could have read thru the posts and realized it's already been said....more than once.

 

[ryanblacksvt]

In the time it took you to type your instructions you could have read thru the posts and realized it's already been said....more than once.

Thank you Pole!!

 

[RandyCSVT]

Like I said ,this is an alternative to doing it that way. If you read it all you would have seen that:nonono:

no offense, but this is not a very good alternative. Your method costs a little under $20, is way messier, and doesn't look like as good of an option.

For all the DIYers interested just buy the poly at mcmaster carr in whatever hardness you want, and do it right the first time for only a little over $10 more.

 

[fordman302]

Randy i would be scrared of cutting out the inserts and trying to center it..Energy Suspension sell 94A 80A etc poly fil and simple says to tape the one end and pour in the poly and let sit..

 

[RandyCSVT]

Randy i would be scrared of cutting out the inserts and trying to center it..Energy Suspension sell 94A 80A etc poly fil and simple says to tape the one end and pour in the poly and let sit..

centering it is not that difficult. It does not have to be perfect either, because the stock mount has rubber that deteriorates over time. I doubt a new stock one will stay perfectly centered once installed.

The energy suspension method is ok, but you still have the old rubber in there. You must also keep in mind that filling is not a good option if your mount is in bad shape. Why fill a mount with a center post that is sagging really low. Most people I know replace their mounts with poly mounts because their stock one is worn out. Also keep in mind that the newest contour is eight years old. I seriously doubt an eight year old mount is in good enough shape for me to be confident with just filling it. I would rather peel all the rubber out, recenter it and fill with poly.

I don't see why more people dont do this. Once you get the rubber out and create your own type of jig, it only takes but a few minutes. You mix the poly, pour, and wait a few minutes for it to set and three days to cure. I would rather do this that deal with trying to compress some goo in there with a caulking gun.

My vote goes to either filling a mount in good shape with real poly, or doing the complete job as I stated earlier.

 

[fordman302]

Yeah the mount you put back on the car is in good shape not bad at all..I guess when it gets worse then i'll cut it out and fill it up..

 

[RandyCSVT]

Yeah the mount you put back on the car is in good shape not bad at all..I guess when it gets worse then i'll cut it out and fill it up..

The mount I put in the car before I sold it was in very good shape. If you cut it and fill it the way I described I would recommend a softer poly. I used 90A, and I think it was too hard. Lots of NVH. If I could do it again I would try 60A or something like that. Worst case scenario, you can melt it out and try something harder if you don't like it.

 

[ryanblacksvt]

no offense, but this is not a very good alternative. Your method costs a little under $20, is way messier, and doesn't look like as good of an option.

For all the DIYers interested just buy the poly at mcmaster carr in whatever hardness you want, and do it right the first time for only a little over $10 more.

Have you ever done it this way? If not then dont speak of something when you havent done it!

 

[Bugzuki]

One thing to note about the McMasterCarr poly is that it is solid in the can when you get it. It says to heat it up to make it liquid. I did that, but did not think about the fact that the poly cures by heat. So, when I mixed the poly is was liquid for about 1 minute (about how long you have to stir). Then it started to harden. I could not really get it to go into the mount.

I ended up with a 30 dollar rubber bouncy ball. :nonono:

Note to self - let the poly cool before mixing next time.

** About the hardness **
The 3M poly is most likely not as hard as the other kind. It is used in the window and is very strong but it is very thin (in that application), so it does not matter how hard it is.

 

[Pole120]

One thing to note about the McMasterCarr poly is that it is solid in the can when you get it.

You bought the wrong poly then. :help:

 

[SoopaCooga]

Looks like I bought the wrong stuff, too. The tech at McMaster-Carr suggested I use the Solid Urethane rated at 85D. I didn't realize that A & D are two different hardness scales, and 85D equivalent to about 160A!

BTW, here's another good how-to for the Pole120 approach.

 

[RandyCSVT]

Have you ever done it this way? If not then dont speak of something when you havent done it!

I don't have to do something myself to see that it is a bad idea. It's your mount and you can do what you want with it. Fill it with peanut butter for all I care!

If you post it as a good idea for others to try I am gonna post my opinion to save someone the trouble of doing this themselves and realizing they have wasted their time and money.

 

[JesusFreak]

I don't have to do something myself to see that it is a bad idea. It's your mount and you can do what you want with it. Fill it with peanut butter for all I care!

If you post it as a good idea for others to try I am gonna post my opinion to save someone the trouble of doing this themselves and realizing they have wasted their time and money.

Exactly, you don't have to put your head underneath a truck tire and having it run over your head to know its a bad idea. I myself ordered the kit from energysuspensionparts.com and will do the sand method!

 

[99Mystique ATX]

Looks like I bought the wrong stuff, too. The tech at McMaster-Carr suggested I use the Solid Urethane rated at 85D. I didn't realize that A & D are two different hardness scales, and 85D equivalent to about 160A!

BTW, here's another good how-to for the Pole120 approach.

Well, on the bright side, your motor won't budge...

I think i'm going to be ordering some 94A I talked a buddy into going halves on one so hopefully we can do my mounts and at least one of his if not both.

 

[Pole120]

Well, on the bright side, your motor won't budge...

I think i'm going to be ordering some 94A I talked a buddy into going halves on one so hopefully we can do my mounts and at least one of his if not both.

You'll get your mounts filled with a one pound kit, nothing more.

 

[99Mystique ATX]

One pound only does one set (front+rear i'm assuming)

Oh well, looks like we may have to order 2 sets...

 

[ryanblacksvt]

Ok well I installed my filled one today and I love it. Yes I am comparing it to driving on the old one thats been shot for quite some time now but hey, I do notice its alot stiffer. I went and did some launches at 2k,3k,4k then 5k and the tires just spun and hooked, no wheel hop. Yes I know the track will be alot different but so far it seems to be working rather well. I will post a few before and after pics tomorow from work.

 

[ryanblacksvt]

And the pics

Before, see how the thru bolt is soo close to the bottom, that bushing is fried

After, this is the one I filled. The thru bolt is dead center.

The old mount with the dead bushing

 

[ScottK]

Lol - I was the first to do this on the CEG mail list way back when. I filled my front and rear mounts with 3m window weld back in 1997, and the mod had been around for years before that. I got it of the neon's board in like '95. You'll end up with a darn near rock solid mount on the front, you still have a lot of soft rubber left in back, but on my car the NVH was horrible with it so I'd hestitate to go 100% urethane anyway. I think David Z. of past 3L fame cut out the stock rubber and completely filled his when he did it. It helps wheelhop TREMENDOUSLY, but no it will not eliminate it entriely in all conditions.

Curing is faster with higher heat and higher humidity, it can be messy. Very cheap good mod, don't know why'd you pay someone when 90% of the work is pulling the mount anyway.

haha - it was so long ago it dissapeared off the internet, only link I could find from the old days was from 2002 talking about the write up I had done

http://www.contour.org/archive/show...Number=204021&page=&view=&sb=&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

 

[CSVT#49]

Pole120 - don't you put your mounts into a fire or something to completely get rid of all the rubber mount material before filling them?

I've had that 94A urethane still in it's box since the first time I had talked to you about it back in... what... 04-05? I think I'm finally going to get around to doing it.