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Flame if you must, but this is my prototype

Not sure who BAT uses as a supplier but my Mezeire is excellent and remote mounts wherever you need it. Not saying its worth it for you but it is an option (and relatively expensive).
-J
 
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaW!

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaW!

Okay,

Several weeks ago, I had a reinstalled the pulley drive system and had this bad boy going again. It was late at night on a work day, so I got too excited and hooked her all up. I forgot to put in one of my spacers (1/8") and while I was punching the s**t out of her, I shredded the belt- $35 Jones Racing products (they are the best by the way).

So not until last night, did I take the correct amount of time to complete the rework, replace the belt, and measure the pulley centers, and blower alignment to ensure it was true to the drive pulley was the work completed.

So far thank God, I've been running a week of hard driving, the belt is centered, and still under good tension.

I'll take a few pictures of the complete assembly, it's pretty hack, since the entire project cost less than $1700.

Now I need some help from the boost experts, I'm going to drop a nordskog boost sender and guage into the car. Where should I attach the boost line? I was planning to run it off a T-line I have the BOV on. This is right off one of the 2 lines out of the UIM, not the one going to the brake booster, the other one.

Also, this is the conservative pulley arrangement. Right now I'm running a 3.5:1 pulley ratio, since it's a cam drive at half the speed of the crank, I will be getting about 35,000 rpms out of the powerdyne bd11 blower- anyone have any ideas what kind of boost I should expect?
 
Some Pics and Questions

Some Pics and Questions

Okay, So the blower has been running for about 800Km and so far so good. I had a slight misalignment and I had to put a couple of spacers in between the pulley and the mount assembly. Have a look at these 4 pictures and let me know if you have any questions.


Here you will see the Air intake making the corkscrew down into the blower. It translates a 3.25" K&N air filter into a 3" pipe to a 4" inlet at the blower. It's made up of parts from silicone intakes, ebay and princess auto (t-bolt clamps)

Just above the maf, you will see the aluminum BOV and the 64 tooth pulley.
Just above the KN filter, you can see the 2.5" into the Throttle body. - this needs to be upgraded to at least 2.75" to match the TB. The outlet of the blower is 3" so this is really a temporary pipe.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/P7090077.jpg

Here you can see the top view, and boy is she dirty!!! You can just get a glimpse of the cog drive. I chose this to keep the tension down on the pressed on water pump pulley that keeps the whole drive assembly moving.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/P7090075.jpg

And here is my f-up with the spacing, as you can see that pulley should fit right into the pulley mount, but alas, I was off by 1/8" and I needed to move it over. Sorry about the focus.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/P7090076.jpg

Here is where I need some help. If you follow the blue line back from the BOV, to a t intersection, the line off to the right goes to my boost guage sender. Off to the left, if connects to the hard lines off the Upper intake manifold. Here is my problem, I'm not showing any boost!!! I have a lot of play power, there is no question there is a significant performance increase, however no boost on the gauge....

So, I;m asking where should I be connecting the pressure line to generate boost? Or have I miscalculated my boost expectations?? The impeller will be spinning at about 36,000 when I'm running at 6700 rpms I was expecting about 5-6lbs off my powerdyne bd11.

Funny story, I had really given her the gas (in a low gear so not to speed) but I blew the BOV tube off the valve, and Whooowee! I thought someone threw a nut into my piston! I got a MAF does not match TPS code, I had a crap, noticed the tube, reattached and cleared the code - everyting ire!

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/P7090078.jpg

It sure is fun! I'll have to get a tune and a dyno, but I'm in no hurry. I have some slight modifications, a 72 tooth drive pulley, a 2.75" charge air pipe.
 
Looks great! You have given me some inspiration for down the road:laugh:

You may have mentioned this and its been a long time since I've read through this thread, but how do you have the blower mounted? Custom brackets and whatnot?
 
Here is where I need some help. If you follow the blue line back from the BOV, to a t intersection, the line off to the right goes to my boost guage sender. Off to the left, if connects to the hard lines off the Upper intake manifold. Here is my problem, I'm not showing any boost!!! I have a lot of play power, there is no question there is a significant performance increase, however no boost on the gauge....

So, I;m asking where should I be connecting the pressure line to generate boost? Or have I miscalculated my boost expectations?? The impeller will be spinning at about 36,000 when I'm running at 6700 rpms I was expecting about 5-6lbs off my powerdyne bd11.

Funny story, I had really given her the gas (in a low gear so not to speed) but I blew the BOV tube off the valve, and Whooowee! I thought someone threw a nut into my piston! I got a MAF does not match TPS code, I had a crap, noticed the tube, reattached and cleared the code - everyting ire!

my BOV vacuum line is connected to a T-connexn that links the vacuum bundles by the firewall and the boost guage. lemmie see if i can find some pix.
EDIT-ok, found a couple. not so clear but u get the idea. it was after i routed it this way that the BOV actually started to work.

underhoodpix003.jpg


underhoodpix012.jpg
 
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I know you guys are gonna laugh at me for saying this but there is a electric supercharger they sell on ebay.its pretty much forced air induction.forcing cold air through your air intake.i bought one to try it and i have to say it looks by the video that you put up that it actually puts out most air pressure than the one you have set up off the cam pulley.kinda goofy but it actually works well.if anything for those of you that have the short ram air intake it lowers the temperature of the air being sucked in from the engine to your air intake....just a thought.anf i think it cost like 50 dollars.compared to 500+ for a super charger setup....
go ahead and laugh at me.....it was something i figure i would try.....
 
I know you guys are gonna laugh at me for saying this but there is a electric supercharger they sell on ebay.its pretty much forced air induction.forcing cold air through your air intake.i bought one to try it and i have to say it looks by the video that you put up that it actually puts out most air pressure than the one you have set up off the cam pulley.kinda goofy but it actually works well.if anything for those of you that have the short ram air intake it lowers the temperature of the air being sucked in from the engine to your air intake....just a thought.anf i think it cost like 50 dollars.compared to 500+ for a super charger setup....
go ahead and laugh at me.....it was something i figure i would try.....

i cant laugh cos i didnt try it myself. but the general concensus around here is that it doesn't work. did u feel any difference in power?
 
very little,but the car did seem to be more peppy in the low rpms.and the car ran alot smoother.i guess you learn by trying things.not sure how well it will work in the winter up here in mew york....
 
IT's a long thread, don't worry about asking!

IT's a long thread, don't worry about asking!

Looks great! You have given me some inspiration for down the road:laugh:

You may have mentioned this and its been a long time since I've read through this thread, but how do you have the blower mounted? Custom brackets and whatnot?

I had a used vortec kit. with the first generation 'crap'shaft that I took the supercharger mount from. It mounts to the bell housing on the tranny. I'm glad I had this because I didn't want to have to try to cut out the pattern for the tranny mount.

I basically took the vortec mount, and carved a BD11 mount into it. This was pretty easy.
 
Good thinking on the mount. Dirty is an understatement on that engine! :help: I've seen cleaner engine bays in cars at the junkyard :laugh:

I know you guys are gonna laugh at me for saying this but there is a electric supercharger they sell on ebay.its pretty much forced air induction.forcing cold air through your air intake.i bought one to try it and i have to say it looks by the video that you put up that it actually puts out most air pressure than the one you have set up off the cam pulley.kinda goofy but it actually works well.if anything for those of you that have the short ram air intake it lowers the temperature of the air being sucked in from the engine to your air intake....just a thought.anf i think it cost like 50 dollars.compared to 500+ for a super charger setup....
go ahead and laugh at me.....it was something i figure i would try.....

Yikes. I'm not laughing.

Oh and a REAL supercharger kit (one that would actually add horsepower) would cost you way more than $500, usually just the blower costs more than that.
 
Good thinking on the mount. Dirty is an understatement on that engine! :help: I've seen cleaner engine bays in cars at the junkyard :laugh:



Yikes. I'm not laughing.

Oh and a REAL supercharger kit (one that would actually add horsepower) would cost you way more than $500, usually just the blower costs more than that.

hey, have you seen the leaf blower dynos? :crazy: :laugh:
 
Here is the difference

Here is the difference

very little,but the car did seem to be more peppy in the low rpms.and the car ran alot smoother.i guess you learn by trying things.not sure how well it will work in the winter up here in mew york....


I know the design is challenging, and I am not for a minute suggesting that a person follows my lead on this, it's still pretty new, and it needs some mileage.

The Power difference is absolute. In first gear my old setup would have strong smooth acceleration from 2000-6700 and with the torsen, it had full traction all the way through. With the new setup the same 2000-6700 acceleration test, the tires break free at about 3000 rpm's and when punched into 2nd, they spin, well at least not at the same time ;)

I may not have boost, but there is sufficient volume of air to generate more power, and overcome an parasitic losses turning the impeller.

But to be honest I never thought much about the electric supercharger they looked inferior. But, if we can have an electric motor turn the wheels of a car, why can't we have one spin an impeller with great speed? I think the technology would permit it, I just don't think a good design has been adopted.
 
You can build an electric supercharger that will supply enough air but they suck a lot of current. The setups out there only allow about 10 seconds of boost until the batteries are drained. I can't see an electric supercharger setup that actually works being much cheaper than a normal supercharger setup.
 
Lorenspics001.jpg

Lorenspics002.jpg


see there really isnt much to this one.it pretty much is like a supercharger and turbo into one.in a way.i pretty much forces air through the air intake. so i guess its like a forced induction system.but here are the pic i was talking about. and there rally isnt much drawfrom your battery.and you can turn it on and off with a switch.
 
see there really isnt much to this one.it pretty much is like a supercharger and turbo into one.in a way.i pretty much forces air through the air intake. so i guess its like a forced induction system.but here are the pic i was talking about. and there rally isnt much drawfrom your battery.and you can turn it on and off with a switch.

i'm sorry but if you think about it, if those worked as good as people think they do, nobody would be spending 1000's of dollars buying superchargers and turbo kits. To be put nicely :)
 
High Volume and low pressure

High Volume and low pressure

I think this is a high volume low pressure pump. Hey, it may work....I just think that the pump you need must generate a lot of CFM with the ability to pump some reasonable pressure at the same time. At high engine RPM's the demand for air is pretty significant, this combined with the need to pressurize the intake at that high CFM demand makes the horse power requirement pretty steep for an air pump. Nothing is impossible, I just think that the pump you've shown here is not going to meet the volumetric demand of the engine.

just my two cents.

by no means an expert.
 
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