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Flame if you must, but this is my prototype

excellent !! now that's out of the way .... cue supercharger home movie .... G.
 
Undo axle nut, remove pinch bolt for b-joint, undo tie rod and end link, grab 3' pry bar and pry down releasing b-joint from knuckle. Loosen top strut nut so susp. can move. Use air chisel to drive axle out of hub. Unbolt control arms. Takes about 25 minutes for pass. side. Driver is longer since you have to cut the 2 forward bolts under the trans. Insert new bolts upside down.


how to: complete.

lol
 
Suspension DONE- SUPERCHARGER RUNNING

Suspension DONE- SUPERCHARGER RUNNING

how to: complete.

lol

Okay, I know this has been the eternal project of mediocre success, however I think I've got it running as good as it's gonna get without a TUNE. Here's a recap of the modifications

The waterpump drive pulley has been 'beefed up', I welded a piece of steel tubing around the outer perimeter of the flange. I screwed a #8 bolt through the camshaft to keep the pulley from slipping. Also, I put a piece of steel round bar up against the face of the camshaft to ensure (in the event of the #8 bolt failure) the pulley does not drive itself into the bushing and seal.

I've put a few thousand km's on it, and with some pretty hard driving I have not broken the bolt. So far so good.

The assembly looks the same as before, I now need to hook up the boost guage, however I can hear a distinct boost leak around the 5000 rpm mark so I've got some work to do to find it. It sounds like it's coming from the vacuum booster. Does anyone know the 'one way valve power resistance on the booster line? Has anyone else needed to tighten up any of the stock vacuum lines?
 
Video of the prototype..

Video of the prototype..

Ya, I know the bay is dirty. I'm a little concerned with the oil that seems to have been blown out of the valve vents... Leading me to believe I'm getting pressure in the valve covers?? I've gotta find a way to keep the pressure in the intake... I get some leaking sounds seemingly in my dash...? I need some more time to figure out where to put some check valves..

Here is the video link...

http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n91/pmaropak/?action=view&current=video-supercharger.flv

i
 
your PCV valve probably isnt sealing fully and your pressurizing the crankcase. also, where are the valve cover vents tied into the intake?
 
Oh yea, she ain't pretty!

Oh yea, she ain't pretty!

your PCV valve probably isnt sealing fully and your pressurizing the crankcase. also, where are the valve cover vents tied into the intake?

I was wondering about the flows from the crank to the valve covers... I was worried about the valves and them not sealing. But I suspect I'd hear something or experience a serious loss of power if they were hooped.

My valve cover vents travel from both valve covers, join together and are connected to the intake after the MAF sensor and before the compressor. I have not seen evidence of oil on the compressor. So the oil was not sucked out of the valve cover, it was blown out.

Either I'm going to put a check valve between the pcv and the crank case, or (the more likely first try) put in a 'supra turbo' pcv. Does anyone know if they will direct fit?
 
You can use a 'stock' pcv valve. Just make sure it seals. I had to open and test 4-5 before I found one that actually sealed when I blew thru it. Most brand new pcv's were leaky.

Or, use a pcv from at Turbo Thunderbird. I have also heard of people using Lightning PCVs with much success.
 
I'm running a thunderbird PCV and I still get a little bit of oil seeping out around the breather tubes.

anybody have an idea how much it would cost to bolt a rotax c15 up where the AC pump is?

I think that would be a great setup.

$50, give it a try I'm sure it would be easy. lol
 
they support engine output up to 200 HP according to their datasheet. And that is only in the case of very high efficiency engines. C15 is made 2 liter or smaller engines.

You can get all the information from their homepage.
 
so I guess a c30-74 will fit, 5.7 in diameter, 7.1 in length.

any body know the size of the ac pump in inches? I'm pretty sure it's bigger than 6X7...

also, can a rotrex be driven directly off the Acc. belt? it looks like it's a serpentine pully on the head unit to me.
 
so I guess a c30-74 will fit, 5.7 in diameter, 7.1 in length.

any body know the size of the ac pump in inches? I'm pretty sure it's bigger than 6X7...

also, can a rotrex be driven directly off the Acc. belt? it looks like it's a serpentine pully on the head unit to me.

Why dont you try e-mailing rotrax? Plus you have a contour, get a tape measure.
 
what you'd have to do is have an underdrive pulley made to stack onto your crank pulley and go off that. you can't get enough tension or pulley contact running it like a serpentine. plus serpentine belts are like 5 rib you need a wider belt if you plan on running any real boost numbers. i looked at my car and there's absolutely no reason you couldnt make one fit.
 
found these pictures on the web... very interesting..

0512_hrdp_02_z+rotrex_supercharger+boost.jpg


rotexc30.png
 
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