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help! car wont stay running

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steelblueSE said:
Moosing/foghorn noise and throttle keeps wanting to sit at 1500rpm.
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this happened to me once as well. make sure u didnt break the internal part of the tps when u tried putting it in. i just dont remember if its clockwise or anti. u just have to twist the tps a slight 20deg angle or so, slide in, and let it twist back. and be sure u didt pick up an SE tps. the svt's is different. they look exactly the same tho. autoparts stores dont have the ones for svts. they simply ask if its for a 4 or 6 cylinder.
 
Yes its a correct brand new part, installed properly. After I installed it the tps cel code went away. Im trying to look up information on the catalytic converter. I remember seeing a bulletin a few years back for a recall. I have been thinking the cats are bad and are messing with the a/f mixture, causing excess carbon build up hence my problens and the extremely bad pinging at >20% throttle and a bad sulphur smell after running it hard.

edit: autozone always asks if its the normal or high output v6 engine when I get parts through them
 
well, from the little i know and have read about, the sulphur smell usually points to the cat. shouldnt that trigger a cel tho? and thats odd that autozone would ask that. whenever i get parts, i look at their screen, and an svt option isnt there:shrug:
 
They don't have the svt model listed specifically, but there are always 2 v6 options and they always ask if its the high output. I have only bought engine parts through them.
 
If you disconnected the vacuum hoses -
Make REAL sure the vacuum hoses are installed exactly as they should be, I made that mistake, had the EGR and fuel pressure regulator hoses switched, that forced the EGR open all the time and wouldn't idle for crap on count of too lean a mixture. It is an easy mistake to make

One thing about autozone - if you can clean up the new parts real good, take them back if they don't solve the problem.

One thing about engine codes - certain problems may or may not throw them, and even when they DO, it may misdirect cause one problem can cause weird readings on other components... like if the PCM points to the MAP sensor, that can happen if something unrelated is acting up.

Heck, when I had switched the two vacuum lines, the PCM was throwing a camshaft position sensor code. WTH?
 
Well the local exhuast shop claims the main cat is fine. They said theres no way to check the pre-cats. They said it could be a "lazy" upstream o2 sensor.
 
Yea, but I'll be at the parents place in a week with a full garage of tools so I'm gonna pull the uim and clean it. The throttle hang fix seems kind of ghetto to me and is an ultra last resort.
 
So if has gotten worse over time, troubleshoot from there. Some things just break one day, others get worse over time...

EGR's have been known to go bad. I don't know how bad it is to pull it out on the V6, but once out, or even maneuvered enough to see inside the thing, just apply vacuum on the hose and see how easily it moves or doesn't
If it is stuck open, it will cause crappy running at low RPM but even if it is stuck closed, it wouldn't create much problems aside causing it to fail emissions (not an issue in some states) when you apply the vacuum (inhale thru the tube if you have to create your own vacuum) you will see if the EGR is opening and closing as it should
 
I got a can of seafoam and put half in the oil, half in the gas. I'm not sure if its a coincidence or what but the damn thing mooses ALL the time now as soon as it goes over 1500rpm and even in reverse at ~1000rpm. I just have to wait 2 days till I'm able to fully address the issue.
 
Took it in to a local shop at my parents request. The shop says the new IAC that I put in a week ago is defective. They also claim there was a leak around the lim, so both manifolds are being pulled, cleaned and a new iac, $170 genuine Ford part :)rolleyes:) is being installed. All this is gonna cost $800! :shocked: Good thing the parents are covering the bill, while I get to buy 4 new tires.

edit: they called back later in the day and said the dpfe sensor was bad as well
 
$859 later after tax the verdict was a leak in the lim gasket, bad dpfe sensor, defective iac (brand new from Autozone 2 weeks ago) and clogged egr passages.

Runnin like a champ now, with noticeablely improved midrange pull :cool:
 
LokisTyro98SE said:
I had similar problems until it got even worse and wouldn't run at all this winter. I checked for vacuum leaks, changed the IAC and TPS and then I just started tearing into it to change the UIM gasket. After removing the throttle body (to remove the intake to clean it) I noticed that the EGR "ports" were completely clogged. After cleaning all the carbon/suite build-up it has been running fine after that. So if you can buy a cheap gasket check that out. With only 110k on it the "ports" were completely clogged and looked as though someone had filled them purposefully. The area I'm talking about was on the UIM on bottom side of where the throttle body mounts to the intake. I have a standard '98 V6. On other engine I believe it can be on the side instead of on the bottom, but I believe that this will probably be what's causing you grief. Hope this helps :)
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I bet it was only your EGR ports. They probably just took all your parents money. $170 for an IAC? Yeah, okay. No thank you.
 
FYI for anyone buying an aftermarket IAC, visually inspect the rubber diaphragm and compare it against a Motorcraft unit if you can. The Motorcraft's are much more substantial in design and less likely to moose, IMO.
 
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