• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

immobilzer bypass module

ubnpast

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
148
Location
West NJ
Im installing a remote starter/alarm for my 96 mystique. I have done a few in the past, but I need some information first. I just wanted to clear up that I need a immobilzer bypass module for remote start?
Also can someone tell me if this is correct for bypassing the clutch, but still being able to use cruise control?

I used a relay... pin 85 went to the blue wire on my remote start system.. which was a (-)200ma status output... when the remote start engages this wire connects to ground.....

Pin 86 went to (+)12v
Pin 87a normally closed - nothing
Pin 87 normally open - Connected to black/yellow wire coming from pin switch closest to firewall on clutch...
Pin 30 Common - Connected to black wire coming from pin switch closest to firewall on clutch....

Black/yellow and black can go on either pin 30 or 87, as long as they connect when the relay snaps on...
 
A PATS bypass module is needed only if the subject vehicle is equipped with PATS. Is it?

If you are trying to install a remote starter into an manual transmission-equipped vehicle, you need to purchase a remote that is designed specifically for manuals, not the generally available ones intended for automatics. Failure to do so usually ends up in an accident because the transmission was left in gear.

Steve
 
A PATS bypass module is needed only if the subject vehicle is equipped with PATS. Is it?

If you are trying to install a remote starter into an manual transmission-equipped vehicle, you need to purchase a remote that is designed specifically for manuals, not the generally available ones intended for automatics. Failure to do so usually ends up in an accident because the transmission was left in gear.

Steve

I am not sure if it is or not im looking at the key right now and I do not see any "plugs" in the black part. How would I tell if it has PATS or not? I would assume I can get a key made at wal-mart and see, but I already have 3 OEM keys for it.
I already have a paging 2 way alarm that is for manual trans, my sister learned the hard way by having her car go down the driveway into a rock as she was running along side of it trying to unlock the doors since they automatically locked :laugh: .
 
I am not sure if it is or not im looking at the key right now and I do not see any "plugs" in the black part. How would I tell if it has PATS or not?


On the top of the black grip there would be a small square panel looking piece, more towards the side of the top.
 
If your key has a large, bulky head, it's a PATS key.

To verify, take it to the WalMart key cutter (or anywhere that uses the AXXESS key system) and ask them to ckeck it with their little electronic key tester (checks for an RFID chip before cutting a blank). If it is a PATS key, they will send you on your way since they don't have the PATS blanks.

Steve
 
It is a large key with a black top, but I dont see any plastic plugs anywhere :confused: . Ill check with wal-mart to see if they have that electronic key tester.
 
No PATS on pre98's!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the great info!

Also just something else to help me out, I already know I have to wire 2 relays for changing my brains - pulse for the door locks to a + one, but wien I tap into the wires below I am assuming I need to use the "lock and unlock connector" which uses - 250ma signals, and that I just leave the "dis-arm and re-arm 250ma" outputs alone and do not connect them to anything?

Thanks for the help!


[Positive (+)] Door Lock - white/greenPositive (+)high in drivers

[Positive (+)] Door Unlock - yellow/greenPositive (+)kick or [2]

Factory Alarm (Arm) - none
Factory Alarm (Disarm) - none
 
Last edited:
door locks

door locks

my wiring programs at home right now but I believe there is a diffrence if u have factory keyless or not. If you have factory keyless then its a wire to wire if U dont then you may have to 5 wire it. the arm and disarm wires are for if you have a factory alarm, to disarm it when u unlock the doors.(to check open drivers door hit lock close door and open it from the inside after aprox 5 minutes), and u can find both lock and unlock wires in the drivers kick panel.
 
my wiring programs at home right now but I believe there is a diffrence if u have factory keyless or not. If you have factory keyless then its a wire to wire if U dont then you may have to 5 wire it. the arm and disarm wires are for if you have a factory alarm, to disarm it when u unlock the doors.(to check open drivers door hit lock close door and open it from the inside after aprox 5 minutes), and u can find both lock and unlock wires in the drivers kick panel.

yes I do have factory keyless entry, but I believe I still have to use 2 relays to convert my signal from the alarm brain from a - to a + one.

I dont understand what you are saying.
 
A PATS bypass module is needed only if the subject vehicle is equipped with PATS. Is it?

If you are trying to install a remote starter into an manual transmission-equipped vehicle, you need to purchase a remote that is designed specifically for manuals, not the generally available ones intended for automatics. Failure to do so usually ends up in an accident because the transmission was left in gear.

Steve

I installed a Viper 791XV..... w/ remote start... on my manual SVT.... If you have PATS, you need a PATS bypass... easiest way to test... go get a copy made at wal-mart... they can make copies of the pats keys, but it won't be a PATS coded key, it will just be keyed the same. Try the copied key in your ignition... if you can start the car with a copied key.. you don't have PATS.... I have a key in my wallet that is copied, and doesn't work in the ignition, but i have it in case I lock my keys in my car, that way I can just unlock it... I've only heard of dealerships being able to make PATS copies, but I know there was some posts in the old forum on programming keys if I remember correctly...

Thanks for the great info!

Also just something else to help me out, I already know I have to wire 2 relays for changing my brains - pulse for the door locks to a + one, but wien I tap into the wires below I am assuming I need to use the "lock and unlock connector" which uses - 250ma signals, and that I just leave the "dis-arm and re-arm 250ma" outputs alone and do not connect them to anything?

Thanks for the help!


[Positive (+)] Door Lock - white/greenPositive (+)high in drivers

[Positive (+)] Door Unlock - yellow/greenPositive (+)kick or [2]

Factory Alarm (Arm) - none
Factory Alarm (Disarm) - none

My alarm came with a separate relay box for the lock and unlock, it had a 5 pin setup, but you only need 3. I had the input power hooked up, and then used the 2 separate outputs for lock and unlock to power the lock and unlock features. I had to extend the wires for them over to the passenger kick behind the glove box where the keyless module is... you'll need to hook up 1 wire for lock, but 2 wires for unlock if I remember correctly. Since the factory style is drivers door unlock then all doors unlock, you need to energize 2 for unlock if I remember correctly, I'll have to double check that I didn't get that backwards when i get home.... To test the wires I used my multimeter and stuck in into the plugs and test for power when the lock or unlock was hit, that's how you figured it out, then I used a 1amp fuse hooked to the positive lead on the cigarette lighter, (I had a plug with the end cut off..) and used that power to test the plug once I had multi metered it to power the motors.... Other than that... here is how to bypass clutch and still retain cruise....

http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showpost.php?p=72927&postcount=26
 
Last edited:
Also... I was thinking you may be able to bypass your PATS if you get a remote start bypass module... the old model is 555 I believe from directed, the newer version is 1100F I believe from directed. The 555 uses a piece that learns the signal.... where as the 1100 taps directly into your Transmit and Receive wires for the PATS and send the signal directly.... The 1100F is more expensive... I would think you'd be able to use the 555 and hook the constant, ground, and ignition up and then it would turn on any time you turned the key on..... In theory you'd be able to start the vehicle with any spare uncoded key that was cut properly.... Although for some reason it says that some vehicles need to have 2 keys to program that module... my car said that I needed 2 using the 1100F, but I only had 1, and I programed that and it had no problem.... I'd like to try it.... I'm pretty sure it could be done..... Just would have to make sure the unit was on a circuit that energized before start.... probably an ignition wire I would think... Steeda.... any thoughts???
 
buggin me on vacation hmm LOL

Ok if you did have a Pats you will need a 555f or U. or the 1100 POS

For the bypass to work at CSVT2004 explained it would also need a status signal to be able to use any non pats key. Or you could just zip tie a real key very close :)

Clutch position sensor:

Just take the lower wire strip some back from both and twist. The Cruise is controled by a seperate sensor

Door Locks:
2 relays are needed

+12v to 86 & 30 on each relay
Lock & unlock signal to 85
87 goes to lock and unlock wires in the lower kick.
 
I think I may have just confused my last post for a question MLuko asked me a couple of weeks back.... eh... oh well.... hopefully my previous post was enough of a help....
 
Last edited:
thanks guys, this pretty much answered it. I dont have pats :cool: . Next task is the trunk opener. Ill have to give that a search.
 
thanks guys, this pretty much answered it. I dont have pats :cool: . Next task is the trunk opener. Ill have to give that a search.

Should be able to tap this wire at the key less module as well..... I still have all the wires and relays I used wrote down on a paper when I did mine at my apartment, can have them Sunday...
 
Back
Top