Machine gun clicking while trying to start

[jsark]

This is a '98 SE with 130k. When I turn the key to start it up, the engine doesn't turn and there's this obnoxious rapid tapping/clicking sound, like a machine gun. I try a second time, and the clicking happens again. I try a third time and the engine reluctantly turns over, then eventually starts.

The battery terminals are clean. The car runs like a champ. I plan on checking all the fuses shortly, but thought I'd check in with you all on this one. Never experienced this sort of thing before. No CEL.

Battery reads 12.5 volts with engine off, and approx 14.3 with engine running. Wires around the battery appear to be in decent shape, but I've not done a thorough inspection of wiring everywhere.

Automotive electrical is my weak suit, so please elaborate on any input you've got.

Thanks.

Oh, and I recently started a fuel pump thread. Not sure if these issues are related/connected in some manner: http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=42075

 

[Chas]

You more than likely have a bad starter solenoid. It's what throws the starter gear forward to engage the fly wheel. If it starts to fail, it won't engage 100%, and make a clicking noise as it keeps trying.

 

[SVTMiG]

I agree with that, but a bad battery can indicate good voltage without a serious load. While it's less likely the battery, it's a 2 minute job to pull the battery at your local parts store and ask them to load check it. Most of the big chains will do that free. I would hate to pull the starter and buy parts to find out later that's not it. Just a thought...:shrug:

 

[Big Jim]

Although the chattering can be from a weak solenoid, it usually isn't. It usually is from low voltage. The low voltage can be from a weak battery, from loose or dirty connections, or from a bad ground in the starter circuit.

 

[jsark]

Great information guys, thanks. I located the receipt for the battery. It's a Sears Gold unit, and the 36-month Full Replacement warranty expires in a few weeks (bought/installed Mar '06).

I think I'll kill two birds by pulling the battery, having Sears load check it, then possibly walk out with a new replacement.

How much voltage should a healthy battery display under a 'heavy' load? Is it possible to test this myself by slapping a voltmeter on the leads while an assistant cranks the motor or something? If so, what should I see?

Remember, electrical is my weak suit...

**UPDATE: Sears technician attached a fancy gadget to the battery which indicated an internal fault. Didn't get any more details besides that. Walked out with a new battery. Thanks for the replies, all.

Still curious as to whether a faulty battery could've contributed to the intermittent fuel pump priming failures. We'll see in time, eh?

 

[WyomingGL]

You more than likely have a bad starter solenoid. It's what throws the starter gear forward to engage the fly wheel. If it starts to fail, it won't engage 100%, and make a clicking noise as it keeps trying.

Uhmm.....Try the bendix

Or pull it out and take it to an autoparts store, they will test it for free, our autozone here has an AWESOME diagnostics machine, it'll tell you EXACTLY whats wrong with it.

 

[Chas]

Uhmm.....Try the bendix

As I understand it, the bendix spring and bendix must be working as the bendix is moving forward/backward, and briefly engaging the fly wheel, creating the clicking sound. This would be caused by the solenoid not having full power (bad battery or electrical) and/or too high of a resistance (bad solenoid)

YMMV

 

[amc49]

Clicking sound not made by bendix. Made by solenoid piston itself as it does not have enough magnetism to stayed locked on contacts against spring. It moves partway, then spring snaps it back to hit stop repeatedly. A remote solenoid as on older cars makes same noise and no bendix present. When bendix itself goes car will not click, instead will try to crank for a fraction of a second and kicks out to let starter whine up like not attached to anything.

 

[Chas]

Clicking sound not made by bendix. Made by solenoid piston itself as it does not have enough magnetism to stayed locked on contacts against spring. It moves partway, then spring snaps it back to hit stop repeatedly. A remote solenoid as on older cars makes same noise and no bendix present. When bendix itself goes car will not click, instead will try to crank for a fraction of a second and kicks out to let starter whine up like not attached to anything.

That's what I was assuming, however, a "mechanic wannabe" friend assured me it was the bendix. On my Camaro, it has always been the solenoid that failed. :blackeye: