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MY 3L Swap (in progress)

you realize the crank pulley isnt reverse threaded. its a two piece design you have to crack the outer pulley (you cannot hold back on the hex shaped inner piece, as its all one piece!) get that off and under that pulley is the actual crank damper bolt, which should be reverse threaded.
 
TRicker said:
you realize the crank pulley isnt reverse threaded. its a two piece design you have to crack the outer pulley (you cannot hold back on the hex shaped inner piece, as its all one piece!) get that off and under that pulley is the actual crank damper bolt, which should be reverse threaded.
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I realize that, thank you.
blu_fuz said:
Oh Jon......
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How about you come out here and I'll buy you some pizza and a lap dance.... uhhhhh what?
 
Consider it done! Getting in the car as we speak.......

A lot of people have problems with that pully. Some have applied heat, but I wouldn't recommend it because you don't want the crank bearings to heat up..... When can I come over?
 
oh lord, I've done two now and never had a problem.

seems to me, the problem with these is operator error, not that they are tough.

although, after you break your tools tightening it, then it's going to be a PITA....
 
KAOS_3.0 said:
oh lord, I've done two now and never had a problem.

seems to me, the problem with these is operator error, not that they are tough.

although, after you break your tools tightening it, then it's going to be a PITA....
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man you are pretty cocky now that your 3L is running. operator error like your coil pack?


I've done 4 3L's, 3 came off no problem, one was a huge pain. it isnt operator error, some are tight.


one trick i used was i clamped vice grips on the harmonic balancer at about the 11 o'clock position radially outwards, and the vice grips would wedge against the timing mark protrusion on the timing cover to hold the crank while i loosened it. I have had better luck with that than holding the flexplate.
 
turbo_fox said:
man you are pretty cocky now that your 3L is running. operator error like your coil pack?
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exactly, I commit lots of operator error, especially when drunk, wasn't drunk when I broke the coil, just saying...

not trying to be cocky dude


I've done 4 3L's, 3 came off no problem, one was a huge pain. it isnt operator error, some are tight.
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thats cool, I did two and neither of them was really a pita. hardest thing to date was adjusting the egr valve to mate up to the uim right. well that and fabricating/ghetto rigging an HB puller for the 2.5. I took the taurus ones off with a typical three leg gear puller, this destroys them, but who cares, they are going in the garbage anyway.


one trick i used was i clamped vice grips on the harmonic balancer at about the 11 o'clock position radially outwards, and the vice grips would wedge against the timing mark protrusion on the timing cover to hold the crank while i loosened it. I have had better luck with that than holding the flexplate.
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I tapped the hole in the flex plate to accept a spare bolt from one of the other engines, then bolted the flex plate on with that hole at the top, and threaded the bolt into one of the "pockets" in the block casting until it bottomed out on the block.

one thing is this, the pully tower thing IS reverse threaded, it's not keywayed like the HB, the engine goes clockwise guys, use common sense. the HB bolts are normal thread, since the HB is held from spinning loose with a keyway on both engines.

fasten the flex plate like I described, put a breaker bar on it facing right, put a big pipe on the breaker bar, and jump up and down on it till you fall down when it comes loose. oh, and use a 6 wall socket. dont want to round it off, that could be a nightmare.
 
can i say as i havent seen it mentioned anywhere, but im thinking of doing a hybrid build motor, in which i take my 3.0 engine block and crank, and take the crank off, lighten and balance it, then add diamond racing forged pistons with forged rods and use the arp bolts on the rod caps, as well as on the heads and then mate this up to my svt heads and cams, now i want to order some more performance headgaskets, but im a bit confused at this one, which headgasket would i use? The 2.5 or the 3.0??

I would hazzard a guess at using the 3.0 because of the size of the piston bore so i guess in theory the 2.5 gasket holes where the pistons are would be smaller than the bore of the 3.0, where as using the 3.0 headgaskets would not have this problem that i can only think off,

any info on this would be appreciated, and good luck with your build :)
 
fred22 said:
can i say as i havent seen it mentioned anywhere, but im thinking of doing a hybrid build motor, in which i take my 3.0 engine block and crank, and take the crank off, lighten and balance it, then add diamond racing forged pistons with forged rods and use the arp bolts on the rod caps, as well as on the heads and then mate this up to my svt heads and cams, now i want to order some more performance headgaskets, but im a bit confused at this one, which headgasket would i use? The 2.5 or the 3.0??

I would hazzard a guess at using the 3.0 because of the size of the piston bore so i guess in theory the 2.5 gasket holes where the pistons are would be smaller than the bore of the 3.0, where as using the 3.0 headgaskets would not have this problem that i can only think off,

any info on this would be appreciated, and good luck with your build :)
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from what i understand and i may be wrong but the 2.5 and 3.0 pistons are the same or close to it and the stroke of the 3.0 is what gives it the bigger displacement. I think it would be fine with either gasket but dont quote me on that.
 
icysvt said:
from what i understand and i may be wrong but the 2.5 and 3.0 pistons are the same or close to it and the stroke of the 3.0 is what gives it the bigger displacement. I think it would be fine with either gasket but dont quote me on that.
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hi icy thanks for the reply, the only reason i think the holes would be different is im sure i did some research and the bore on the 2.5 was something like 82.9 or something like that and the 3.0 was 89.0 so to me that would make the piston that little bit bigger :confused:

i appreciate your response, i think someone on here has done the same kind of hybrid i thought of so maybe he might see this and comment on this :help:

but at the moment im thinking it might be the 3.0 ones i need ...
 
WTF!?!:nonono: Crank pulley still isn't budging. I know I'm doing it right. Can I just cut that damn thing off? What else can I try?

I need to get it off ASAP, it's holding me up and I want my car back on the road!

Any more suggestions?
 
Have you tried some heat yet? I did pretty much what Joe did, but if you're still struggling, some heat might help.

EDIT: Just saw that your motor sat about the same amount of time that mine did, but mine only had 5k. Try a little heat or find a way to jam the flexplate. I had a little help when i did mine :)
 
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