PHilly
Hard-core CEG'er
Ok, where should I apply the heat? Is there a chance I could burn anything up doing that?
hi buddy, what u want to do is get youself a small hand held butane canister with one of those blow torch attachments that screws over the butane canister and then heat up the middle of the crank where the pully meets the crank, give it a couple of minutes with the heat on the same area, then quickly get your pully puller and pull it off, it will come off, u wont damage anything, ive done it this way 4 times now and its always helps me take the damb thing off as u know its very tight, but the heat helps taking it off, hope this helps![]()
No, I haven't even been able to touch the car in a few days. Been working a lot, I will be out there Saturday night after work to punch in on it. You should roll out here!
Tony, when the hell are you stopping out again?
The pulley from hell is now off.I was rather determined to beat it and I won
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well, I welded three washers onto a very large washer, then placed that onto part of a claw type gear puller, but I refuse to do anything the right way, :lol:
at any rate, the one I see used most looks like a piece sign with no circle, and you put bolts that fit the holes in the HB through the slots on the three legs of it that form a mercedes star. I know, bad description, but hope it helps.
the ford manual shows something different yet, but my 16 bit subsystem is acting up, so the ford cd keeps crashing. I'll try to get you a picture a little later.
I sent my trans to Livinsvt to rebuild some of it and install a torsen.
Parts list:
1-2, 3-4, 5-R Shift forks replaced.
Inner and outer seals replaced.
Torsen with bearings installed.
With installation and parts I have about $1200 in the trans. Brett (Livinsvt) said the syncros all looked good, so that was nice not have to buy those.
I hopefully will be getting it in the mail before Friday next week, then it's GO TIME!